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1935 Chrysler Airstream


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Posted (edited)

Hi everyone. New to the forum. As of last month I've begun restoring my great grandfather's 1935 Airstream. It's completely original with just over 7k miles. All in all it's in very good shape, however it's been sitting for the last 30 years or so. I've managed to free up the engine and am currently restoring the fuel tank. I've replaced the belt and plugs. Hoping once I get the gas tank back in it will run. 

 

In the meantime, I'm working on replacing the glass. All of it has severely delaminated unfortunately. I briefly worked on the driver door last night but couldn't quite figure out the trick to get the glass out. I have a manual but it's about as clear as mud to me. Any advice? 

 

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Edited by Shunk88
typo (see edit history)
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59 minutes ago, Shunk88 said:

Hi everyone. New to the forum. As of last month I've begun restoring my great grandfather's 1935 Airstream. It's completely original with just over 7k miles. All in all it's in very good shape, however it's been sitting for the last 30 years or so. I've managed to free up the engine and am currently restoring the fuel tank. I've replaced the belt and plugs. Hoping once I get the gas tank back it will run. 

 

In the meantime, I'm working on replacing the glass. All of it has severely delaminated unfortunately. I briefly worked on the driver door last night but couldn't quite figure out the trick to get the glass out. I have a manual but it's about as clear as mud to me. Any advice? 

 

IMG_20220514_113013268.jpg

IMG_20220514_113028504_HDR.jpg

WOW!  opportunely may here wish they had.....  Are you planing on keeping it original??.... Basically that's what "restoring"  means, but a lot of people don't understand that!

 

In order to remove the door glass, you have to remove the inner door panel.  Start by removing the handles.  There is a small pin you have to punch out. If there are screws in the inside window frame remove them. Then pry it off.... It should be spring loaded.

IIRC, the arm rest has some screws that hold it on.  The panel itself has a series of clips that hold it to the door. Be very careful

not to damage the panel. 

ERIC

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3 minutes ago, VW4X4 said:

WOW!  opportunely may here wish they had.....  Are you planing on keeping it original??.... Basically that's what "restoring"  means, but a lot of people don't understand that!

 

In order to remove the door glass, you have to remove the inner door panel.  Start by removing the handles.  There is a small pin you have to punch out. If there are screws in the inside window frame remove them. Then pry it off.... It should be spring loaded.

IIRC, the arm rest has some screws that hold it on.  The panel itself has a series of clips that hold it to the door. Be very careful

not to damage the panel. 

ERIC

Thanks, that's just what I needed. I was afraid I'd have to take the panel off. Going to be a delicate job. 

 

Yes, planning to keep it as original as possible. I really even hate to replace the glass but it's not very functional in its current state. Not sure what to do with the paint yet. As you can see it's peeling pretty good around the windshield frame, but at least the primer underneath appears to be solid in most areas. Will probably just leave it as is for the foreseeable future. Other than that, just replacing some seals/hoses that are rotten and rebuilding master cylinder and wheel cylinders. The exhaust will eventually need some attention as it's rusted through in a few spots. My main concern is getting it on the road right now. My grandfather just turned 80 and his health is beginning to fail. Would love to take him for a ride this summer. 

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Once you remove the armrest via the Phillips headed screws on the underside. Lift the armrest up and it will clear. The handles as Eric stated are held on by pins that go through the square shaft. Push back the escutcheon, (there is a spring that pushes it out to cover the handle joint) and use a small nail to push the pin clear. It is smooth and it will move easily in most cases. Now you can remove the handle and the spring with the escutcheon and set those aside. The panel is held via clips but watch for screws as others may have changed things over the last 87 years. In side the door you should see a plate that the armrest had been attached to and the screws that hold the window regulator. Wind the window down and then remove the screws carefully support the assembly so that it does not slam into the bottom of the door, even though you are replacing the glass no need to make things harder on yourself. Getting the window out is a bit of a job. Remove the regulator rollers from the window channel. I found that on my car it was to slide the whole window in one direction and the regulator in the other. Once separated remove the regulator from the door and then wiggle out the glass.

The photos I posted here are from my 36 coupe so they may not be the same at all but I hope they help.

Pierre

IMGP0702.JPG

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1 hour ago, Piaras said:

Once you remove the armrest via the Phillips headed screws on the underside. Lift the armrest up and it will clear. The handles as Eric stated are held on by pins that go through the square shaft. Push back the escutcheon, (there is a spring that pushes it out to cover the handle joint) and use a small nail to push the pin clear. It is smooth and it will move easily in most cases. Now you can remove the handle and the spring with the escutcheon and set those aside. The panel is held via clips but watch for screws as others may have changed things over the last 87 years. In side the door you should see a plate that the armrest had been attached to and the screws that hold the window regulator. Wind the window down and then remove the screws carefully support the assembly so that it does not slam into the bottom of the door, even though you are replacing the glass no need to make things harder on yourself. Getting the window out is a bit of a job. Remove the regulator rollers from the window channel. I found that on my car it was to slide the whole window in one direction and the regulator in the other. Once separated remove the regulator from the door and then wiggle out the glass.

The photos I posted here are from my 36 coupe so they may not be the same at all but I hope they help.

Pierre

IMGP0702.JPG

Thank you both! I have a feeling you guys saved me a whole lot of time and curse words.

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I forgot to mention that you should pivot the window assembly with the front higher than the back. That way you get enough room to slide the regulator off and out. On my car there is no room otherwise to get it off and out. Watch the square window crank as it is a part that hangs out and can wedge in certain positions.

Pierre

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19 hours ago, Piaras said:

Once you remove the armrest via the Phillips headed screws on the underside. Lift the armrest up and it will clear. The handles as Eric stated are held on by pins that go through the square shaft. Push back the escutcheon, (there is a spring that pushes it out to cover the handle joint) and use a small nail to push the pin clear. It is smooth and it will move easily in most cases. Now you can remove the handle and the spring with the escutcheon and set those aside. The panel is held via clips but watch for screws as others may have changed things over the last 87 years. In side the door you should see a plate that the armrest had been attached to and the screws that hold the window regulator. Wind the window down and then remove the screws carefully support the assembly so that it does not slam into the bottom of the door, even though you are replacing the glass no need to make things harder on yourself. Getting the window out is a bit of a job. Remove the regulator rollers from the window channel. I found that on my car it was to slide the whole window in one direction and the regulator in the other. Once separated remove the regulator from the door and then wiggle out the glass.

The photos I posted here are from my 36 coupe so they may not be the same at all but I hope they help.

Pierre

IMGP0702.JPG

Piaras,,   I don't know for sure in (1935),  but in all my 1936 cars, not a single screw was Phillips head.  The phillips head screw was only invented around 1932, and to the best of my knowledge, wasn't use in cars or other application until the 50's.   This is one of the many details they look at, when judging cars at car shows..... Not that I really care....

 

ERIC

 

ERIC

 

 

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Posted (edited)

All the screws so far have been Straight blade or Phillips. It is all I can go off of. Of course who knows what previous owners have done to my car. Likely might find a Robertson or two buried somewhere!

Pierre

Edited by Piaras (see edit history)
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  • 3 months later...

Wanted to thank you guys for your help. All the glass is finally in. Would have been much easier if I didn't have to sand every piece to fit. Should have just taken the old glass to a local shop instead of buying online, but lesson learned. 

 

I've got it cleaned up and running great. Still fighting some slow leaks in the front wheel cylinders after rebuilding them. Probably going to just replace them. New exhaust from Martin Johnson who I would highly recommend. 

 

I ran a new vacuum line to the windshield wiper but the seals in the wiper motor must be dried out because I can hear air leaking. Not sure if a little marvel's or atf would help swell the seals or not. Does anyone still rebuild these things? 

 

Also, does anyone know where to get an oil filter for these? I initially ordered one from bernbaums that was supposed to fit but it's not the same. I can't seem to find one anywhere.

 

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6 hours ago, Shunk88 said:

 

Also, does anyone know where to get an oil filter for these? I initially ordered one from bernbaums that was supposed to fit but it's not the same. I can't seem to find one anywhere.

 

 

 

 Surprise surprise.... Bernbaums filter doesn't fit.  That guy has definitely been ripping people off like this for years.  Send it back and tell him, he should  pay all the lost shipping cost..

Edited by VW4X4 (see edit history)
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On 9/27/2022 at 1:30 PM, VW4X4 said:

 Surprise surprise.... Bernbaums filter doesn't fit.  That guy has definitely been ripping people off like this for years.  Send it back and tell him, he should  pay all the lost shipping cost..

Yeah, I'll be sending it back. I can't say anything too bad about them, they've been ok the couple times I've called them. I should have looked closer before I ordered it but out of ignorance I just assumed since it said it fit my car it would fit. I've determined I need to either find a canister filter with replaceable element or find one of the replicas that take a spin on filter. Or just leave the original on there as non-functional. It appears to still have the original disposable from the factory.

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