1960 lincoln continental problems.

[BryanFJ1]

Hello everyone! I'm trying to fight a few problems in my project car, so i thought maybe i can find some help here. So here it is.

 

1. My Horn isn't working. I was trying to take off the horn ring, but I just couldn't. Tried to push it in and turn counterclockwise - nothing. I don't see any gap to try and pry on too. 

1. Temp gauge isn't working. Order a new sensor and before installing it on the car just connect it to the wire, ask my friend to look at the dash and just heat it up with a lighter while ignition is on - nothing. So there is a wiring issue, but where to look? 

[61polara]

To test the temp gauge, just ground the wire to the sending unit and the gauge should go to full hot.  If it doesn't move it's in the wiring or gauge.  Your lighter trick won't work because the sending unit has to be grounded.

Edited May 26, 2022 by 61polara (see edit history)

[rocketraider]

A 1960 Lincoln is too complex a car to not have factory service literature at hand. So the absolute first order of business is to acquire a 1960 Lincoln factory service manual printed by Ford Motor Company for its Lincoln dealer mechanics.

 

The way Ford does things, you may have to get a separate vacuum and wiring manual.

 

Get original print copies. My experience is reprints and especially CD-ROM copies lose a lot of detail especially in wiring charts.

 

Good luck with your "Linken".

[Oldtech]

Might be screws from the back. complete ring comes off.  Just an ed guess. 

[m-mman]

Nothing is "pushed & turned" to remove these parts. The "small" plastic center removes first.

 

THEN  there are 4 bolts behind it to unbolt the horn ring. It doesn't use a conventional spring, instead it uses a rubber (think thick foam) ring that is compressed.  Most likely the rubber "spring" is disintegrated and the horn blew either continuously or inappropriately and it was disconnected at the relay, so expect to do electrical troubleshooting along with the horn ring. 

 

Definitely buy a shop manual! 

[BryanFJ1]

On 5/27/2022 at 12:39 AM, m-mman said:

The "small" plastic center removes first.

Is there any tricks how to do that? 

[m-mman]

It lifts/snaps out.

I have attached a picture from the parts book. 

 

Have you picked up a shop manual yet?  Plenty useful 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133518512648?hash=item1f1652d208:g:xFcAAOSw09FZ0WLu 

[BryanFJ1]

On 6/8/2022 at 1:24 PM, m-mman said:

It lifts/snaps out.

I have attached a picture from the parts book. 

 

Have you picked up a shop manual yet?  Plenty useful 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133518512648?hash=item1f1652d208:g:xFcAAOSw09FZ0WLu 

Thank you very very much!!!!

[trimacar]

Is the car running now, and did you find out the starting issue?

 

[BryanFJ1]

2 hours ago, trimacar said:

Is the car running now, and did you find out the starting issue?

 

I changed solenoid and unfortunately the starter is still very slow.

Without the spark plugs the engine turns as it should - with them it's really slow, cant start it. I found the guy who works on classic cars and he said he will change the starter for 350 (Starter price is included). I don't really have time atm to work on that, plus I need him to take a look at the carburetor. 

[trimacar]

It’s shame you won’t pull a valve cover and see if valves are locked up.

 

My opinion is the old varnish locked up the valves and gummed up the rings, thus making it hard to turn over.

 

When you first got it, it started right up, no starting problems, correct?  Now it’s gummed up.  Probably not the starter if it worked well the first time.  Go ahead and pay your “Classic car” guy, though…

 

But, I know you don’t believe me, even though it’s EXACTLY what happened to my car.

[m-mman]

18 hours ago, BryanFJ1 said:

I changed solenoid and unfortunately the starter is still very slow.

Without the spark plugs the engine turns as it should - with them it's really slow, cant start it.

 

Uhhhhh. . . . without the spark plugs it should SPIN very fast.

If it cranks without plugs at a similar speed as with the plugs, then that is further proof of a worn/failed starter and will never start until it is replaced. 

 

18 hours ago, BryanFJ1 said:

I found the guy who works on classic cars and he said he will change the starter for 350 (Starter price is included). I don't really have time atm to work on that, plus I need him to take a look at the carburetor. 

Hint: You need a plan. If you have deep pockets, then throwing parts at a project is no problem. However, it seems like you are on a budget. (99% of us are)  

 

Warning: You are at the edge of a financial cliff, about to spend (or need to spend) significant amounts of cash (parts and labor) and will end up in the exact same place.  Example: you have replaced the solenoid (not much $ but still. . . ) and have not made any significant improvement overall. 

 

As I see it right now you need a starter (cheap to buy, major hassle to install) Freeze plugs and fuel system repair (carb sure, but you still have a bad fuel tank and what are you going to do about a fuel pump?)

As trimacar has expressed, you might very well have serious issues with the valve train. 

 

Suggestion: Do not worry about (or invest in) any carburetor work UNTIL you sort out and prove that the heavy mechanical engine parts are ready to run. Otherwise you could end up with a new carb (and starter?) and still have to pull the heads . . . . and eventually pull the block to replace the freeze plugs and get the rust out of the water jackets. . . . . 

 

We are NOT trying to questions your intentions, but we have all been in the position that you are in and most all of us have fallen into a bottomless financial hole trying to "just fix a few things". 

Good luck with your project. 
 

 

 

FYI this was my bottomless pit.  I have had it for 40 years and spent thousands on it.  Every time I thought I was done spending I needed to spend more. Why it took years to get it this far and it still isn’t done.  

Edited June 11, 2022 by m-mman
Add photo of my car (see edit history)