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Anti lock brake fuse corrosion


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While investigating the source of an anti lock warning light I found the firewall side relay fuse was corroded and the contactor broke when i removed the fuse.  Any one think this could be the cause for the light?

The contactor on the right is the broken one.

antilock fuse.jpeg

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2102132167_BrakeFuseBox.jpg.52b51058177d5dd814af565b664fffd2.jpg

Picture indicates your brake fuse box.  I'm going to guess that the terminal of the fuse is not really corroded but is more melted from having a constant flow of electricity thru it.  Look down in the open box and see if the location were the fuse sat appears to be deformed from the other 2 sockets. My guess is that the membrane in the accumulator is worn out and for the brake system to maintain pressure, the pump runs all the time.  This will cause the fuse to blow and fuse box to melt.  Don't just replace the fuse as it will blow again.  If the socket has become unusable you can remove the box and rewire it to the empty socket.  You more than likely have an accumulator with a red and silver circular decal on the top.  This is original equipment and needs to be replaced.

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Yes that is the relay/fuse box.  It does appear to have overheated, however the wires are all fine.

This is a replacement accumulator, don't know when it was done.  I find a note from previous owner from 2005 "replaced brake computer"  not sure what that means.  All the pad, lines, etc. have been replaced.

Trying to find a brake system tester from Miller. 

accumulator.JPEG

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I the Buick Reatta service manual it show a "pressure tester" that is made like the riser/spacer shown in the picture. 

The tester has a tapped hole in the middle where a pressure gage is screwed into. 

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19 hours ago, 75GL1000 said:

Trying to find a brake system tester from Miller. 

There are lots of tests and information on my website that applies to the Teves brake system on your TC. 

 

Here is a simple test you can do without the Miller tester that will tell you about the condition of your accumulator and pump. 

Accumulator Testing Instructions

 

19 hours ago, 75GL1000 said:

I find a note from previous owner from 2005 "replaced brake computer"  not sure what that means. 

He probably referring to the ABS Electronic Control Module. It controls the ABS valves using inputs from the wheel sensors. It doesn't control the pump or brake system pressure.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:

I the Buick Reatta service manual it show a "pressure tester" that is made like the riser/spacer shown in the picture. 

The tester has a tapped hole in the middle where a pressure gage is screwed into. 

A636DA4B-E227-4DC1-8092-9840CBC9C877_1_105_c.jpeg.6a2f61bdc0f9dd2869b8db5e064972a0.jpeg 

This is what it looks like. I have been using it in my shop for years.

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Posted (edited)

Tried you testing procedures today.

Anti Lock light comes on with power on.  Pump the brakes  the second time and the pedal is on the floor.

On start up the red Brake light comes on and goes out in 4 sec or so.

Anti Lock light stays on regardless.

Pump comes on and pumps up and goes off in a few seconds

Edited by 75GL1000 (see edit history)
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4 hours ago, 75GL1000 said:

Tried you testing procedures today.

Anti Lock light comes on with power on.  Pump the brakes  the second time and the pedal is on the floor.

On start up the red Brake light comes on and goes out in 4 sec or so.

Anti Lock light stays on regardless.

Pump comes on and pumps up and goes off in a few seconds

It is obvious that you need to replace the ACCUMULATOR!  

When you pump the brake pedal, are you sure the brake pedal actually goes all the way to the floor or is it only that the brake pedal becomes hard as a rock, BUT DOES NOT GO ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR?

Important to tell us the difference.  

So we know that the pump works OK for now, BUT you MUST get a new ACCUMULATOR before driving the car in traffic.  If the brake pedal gets hard or goes to the floor, YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO STOP THE CAR!

At least not in a reasonable distance.

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5 hours ago, 75GL1000 said:

Pedal goes all the way to the floor, the last 1/2 inch or so is stiffer than the earlier travel.

It still appears that you need an accumulator, even though the one pictured is a newer replacement accumulator sold by GM dealers and other brake suppliers I dealt with when I had my shop, so after installing a new one, do the test again.

Hopefully you will regain a good pedal feel with a new accumulator.

And while you are at it, be sure to flush the entire hydraulic brake system of that 30+ year old brake fluid, using new, from a sealed container, DOT3 brake fluid.

Diagnosing something like this long distance is certainly not anything more accurate than replying on the information the owner/driver reports.

 

Does the brake pedal actually touch the carpet? That last 1/2 inch says a lot when you say it is stiffer. It seems to indicate that the Hydraulic Assembly, AKA Master cylinder, may be defective as well.

You should have an ABS brake expert locally, diagnose this.

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Posted (edited)

the system has been flushed 3 or 4 times that i have record of. All the hoses, calipers, pads, abs control and the accumulator have been replased in the last 10 years  or more recently.

I always appreciate your guidance, with your help she is running well.

Hope your doing well. 

Double checked the pedal travel, it is on the floor. 

Edited by 75GL1000 (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...
6 hours ago, AlexeyK said:

Hello, Mr. Hemi Dude do you have an accumulator for sale? I think I need new for my Chrysler TC Maserati 1989

 

Sorry to say NO, I do not. At 82, I am retired and can only help with advice.

tcparts.com should be able to help you.

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On 27.06.2022 at 06:58, Hemi Dude said:

Извините, что говорю НЕТ, не знаю. В 82 года я на пенсии и могу помочь только советом.

tcparts.com должен быть в состоянии помочь вам.

Any way thank you for your advice, in your 82 you still super useful 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
4 hours ago, 75GL1000 said:

is there a thread on replacing the accumulator anywhere?

 

What you need first is a ‘Thread’ on finding an accumulator.

After you have one, I’ll send YOU the information you need.

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Found an accumulator, got it installed.  Flushed the brakes, got nice clean fluid now.  

Good brake response, took 9 pumps to get the pedal down, much better than before.  

Brake warning lamp now functions normally, but I still have Anti-Lock warning light.

Pump runs as normally expected.  

Looking for the MST-6400 tester now.  

Any suggestions on my next step if I can't find a tester?

Thanks for your help.

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Pretty sure I posted on another brake discussion info about new accumulators available from the widow

of the fellow that ran Spinning Wheels.   I am not home where I can give you a phone number 

Spinning Wheels was a business devoted to Ford Thunderbirds with the turbo charged 4 cyl engine. 

They all had Teves ABS brakes and they had aftermarket accumulators..... at a reasonable price. 

If you want to spend around $500 for one go to East Coast Reatta Parts. 

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On 8/3/2022 at 12:41 PM, Garnet & Gold said:

After I go to the web site how do I find the accumulator or do I have to call Bill and talk to him?

call Bill, Great guy, Tell him Terry sent ya.

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