Nevets95 Posted April 24, 2022 Share Posted April 24, 2022 Recently it had some stalling issues, one a week it would stall and need 45 minutes before being able to start again. All symptoms led to a back crank position sensor. I got that sensor replaced and now it will only run if you hold the pedal down to 2000 rpm. Any lower and it will immediately stall out. This is my only car and I really need help as soon as possible, thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted April 24, 2022 Share Posted April 24, 2022 Keep scrolling down the Forums until you find the Buick section. There's a Reatta subforum there and a group of owners who are very good at troubleshooting Reatta issues. Did you use a GM CPS or an aftermarket part? And no, I don't consider current AC-Delco electronic parts to be a suitable replacement for old stock GM parts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickelroadster Posted April 24, 2022 Share Posted April 24, 2022 This doesn't sound like something that somebody with little experience and no code reader could easily fix. Take it to a knowledgeable mechanic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 24, 2022 Share Posted April 24, 2022 (edited) Remove the cam sensor and bump the engine to line-up the magnet in the cam gear with the cam sensor hole to verify that the magnet is actually there. The magnet is held in place by a nylon clip that deteriorates and allows the magnet to fall out. If the magnet is intact, you could try a new cam sensor; last I knew they weren't too expensive (around $20). Edited April 24, 2022 by EmTee typo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 I believe that if you have the ignition on and you press the off & warm buttons for the AC, you will put the car into diagnostic mode. You should be able to review and scroll through the codes. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 (edited) "will only run if you hold the pedal down to 2000 rpm. Any lower and it will immediately stall out" Sounds more like a TPS signal going to zero, that will kill the engine. SHould be .38-.42vdc at idle and over 4.0vdc at WOT with no dead spots in the middle. Edited April 25, 2022 by padgett (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 First thing is to find out if he can access the onboard diagnostics to make trouble shooting much easier. Cam sensor has no bearing for this issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 (edited) ED01 is TPS position. Edited April 25, 2022 by padgett (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted April 26, 2022 Share Posted April 26, 2022 Well- OP hasn't been back. Let's hope he got his little Buick Electronica going. Yah I know, bad play on Electra... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted April 26, 2022 Share Posted April 26, 2022 Help desk syndrome: if fixed the user stops calling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted April 26, 2022 Share Posted April 26, 2022 Forums are like convenient markets. The majority of the customers just pop in, get what they need, and get out. They don't come back until they need something else. A few of the regular customers stop by often just to hang out and shoot the bull. I guess I'm one of the regular customers. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nevets95 Posted May 1, 2022 Author Share Posted May 1, 2022 Update on this, apologies for my absence. Got the car back, runs and drives fine but stalls and doesn't start for hours on end. We've pinpointed it has to do something with spark, once it stalls something isn't delivering proper spark to the cylinders. Just waiting to get it back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted May 1, 2022 Share Posted May 1, 2022 Sure sounds like crank sensor or ignition control module. Sometimes the cam sensor gets confused with the crank sensor when non mechanics converse about things to be clear. Did the won’t run below 2000 rpm problem get fixed? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 Any codes ? What is the TPS reading ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nevets95 Posted May 2, 2022 Author Share Posted May 2, 2022 No codes are being thrown, TPS is doing perfectly fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 17 hours ago, Nevets95 said: runs and drives fine but stalls and doesn't start for hours on end. We've pinpointed it has to do something with spark, once it stalls something isn't delivering proper spark to the cylinders. Classic symptoms of a bad Ignition Control Module. Crankshaft Position Sensor can do the some but it is rare. Neither one will set a code. Cam position sensor won't prevent a 3800 from starting and running. It only optimizes the timing of the injector opening so you can rule it out as preventing the engine from starting. If your ICM has gray matter on the side of it like the photo below, it indicates it's overheating. Replace it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 I've replaced all of mine with Delco ignitions. Just keep Magnavoxs for trunk spares (ten minute swap and am slow, do leave hard screw off, two is enough.). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nevets95 Posted May 3, 2022 Author Share Posted May 3, 2022 Padgett, mine came with a Magnavox, so maybe that is the issue haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted May 4, 2022 Share Posted May 4, 2022 "Fine" is not a value. TPS should be .38-.42v at idle, over 4.0 at max throttle, and no dead spots in the middle. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nevets95 Posted May 4, 2022 Author Share Posted May 4, 2022 25 minutes ago, padgett said: "Fine" is not a value. TPS should be .38-.42v at idle, over 4.0 at max throttle, and no dead spots in the middle. I didn't ask the mechanic to test this, after all the crank position sensor was why it refused to idle and we replaced it and it works fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted May 4, 2022 Share Posted May 4, 2022 So installing a second crank position sensor fixed the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nevets95 Posted May 4, 2022 Author Share Posted May 4, 2022 11 hours ago, Ronnie said: So installing a second crank position sensor fixed the problem? It solved the no idle problem, but did not solve the stalling while driving and refusing to start after the stall issue 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted May 4, 2022 Share Posted May 4, 2022 Which brings us back to the TPS. If it goes to zero, the engine will stall. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nevets95 Posted May 5, 2022 Author Share Posted May 5, 2022 Update- got the car back, problem was ignition control module and the coil pack. Ended up fixing another issue I chose to ignore, and has power when cold. There used to be a deadzone when pressing down the pedal all the way until it was to the floor. Runs like a charm and hasn't stalled on me yet 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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