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89 CHrysler Tc by Maseratti brakes


VTTC

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Hello all,

I'm new to forum, but have lurked a little bit.

 

I have started working on an inherited 1989 Chrysler Tc with 102K.  The car sat for several years shortly after a rebuilt tevis assembly was installed in 2014 or 2015 (I was told it was sourced via a forum member in arizona but actually came from texas???).  Upon firing up the old girl, I found very soft brake pedal and low fluid level.  I topped up the reservoir with DOT 3.  I did buy the shop manual and followed bleeding instructions only to find collapsed (imploded) driver front soft line.  Replaced it, finished bleeding brakes and ran tests per reatta.net.  All seemed okay  - no brake light, no abs light - except abs light comes on and pump runs every time I push the brake pedal.  I concluded that I have a failing accumulator because the accumulator does pressurize when key turned run - pump runs about 30 seconds with change in pump sound after about 20 seconds.  So I ordered a wabco unit STC2784 (as endorsed by Hemi Dude).  I pulled the accumulator off the stem and went to install the wabco unit but the threads are too small???  I was under the impression that it should be a direct fit.  The unit that I removed is from ATE with number 10.0515-0524.1 stamped on it.  I cannot find that unit in any searches online.   I don't really know what to do.  I am wondering if the remanufacturer used a different stem and accumulator than original?  I  noticed  that the wabco unit shows 200 bar stamped on it while the Ate unit shows only 100 bar stamped on it.  I also notice that the wabco unit is .32L while the ATE unit is .48L.  Does anyone have any suggestions other than scrapping the Tevis system?

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I believe you did endorsed it On October 1, 2019 in this Forum under thread called "Affordable ABS Brake Accumulator replacement"

 

I'm thinking of trying to remove the stem and have one machined so that it will accept the Wabco, but the stem seems very tightly seatedht and the bracket it goes into looks weak.  I don't want to do damage.  Alternatively, I am thinking I will identify the size of the threaded portion of the ATE unit and try to figure out if there is an accumulator with the same same thread/diameter that will fit.  But most sellers don't provide a lot of specifications for the accumulators.  Any suggestions would be very welcome.

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  • 2 months later...

l am providing an update to my post from April.

 

After searching, I discovered that the re-manufactured hydraulic brake assembly that was installed in my Tc had been provided by Tc Parts.  So, I reached out to them (as Hemi Dude also suggested).  The guys at Tc parts were helpful and recalled that at the time I purchased the reman from them that they were having a hard time sourcing accumulators.  However they had no idea or records which indicate the size of the male connection to the hydraulic unit stem.  After some internal discussion, Tc Parts assured me that their accumulator would fit.  So I ponied up for their higher priced unit (about $100 more than I paid for the Wabco) only to find it was another Wabco unit - identical to Wabco unit I had previously purchased and returned.  I was very disappointed and walked away from the project to attend to other matters.  After some thought I decided to try to find an adapter hoping that after adding it to the stem I would still be able to close the hood.   I spent a ridiculous amount of time in local shops and online trying to find an adapter that had a M18 male thread with 1.5 pitch and a female M14 with 1.5 pitch.  I finally found one at hosewarehouse.com.  It was expensive - about $40 with tax and shipping.  When it arrived I added an O-ring to the male end, screwed it into the stem, then screwed the Wabco accumulator into it and snugged them both down, found that the hood closed and that the weather strip at the back of the engine compartment did not need to be modified.  I turned the key and held my breath.  Happily the system charged!!.   The pedal still felt a bit soft so I went ahead and bled all four calipers following the instructions in the service manual.  After bleeding, the pedal felt good.  I ran all the tests that are suggested at reatta.net and my results were all in spec.  I took the Tc for a ride and I am back in business.  I would not have been able to complete this project myself without all the information I gleaned from this forum.  So, thank you to all who have provided good information.

 

I think I will be replacing shocks and struts next...

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