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1950 newyorker straight 8 ticking


Notmechanic
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Did you take the head off?

Or possibly drop something down a spark plug hole.

I had a mystery like this once, running a bit rough and knocking.

The electrode had come free of the spark plug and got to a tight spot on top of the piston and was bumping the head.

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Pull the tappet covers and carefully look/ listen and feel each valve/spring while it's running.

If it is one of those you will find it making the noise.

Now possibly it's a broken ring or ring land...requires pulling the head to do a look see.

Now also some real late production eights used the Wilcox Rich hydraulic lifters and one of those if failing to keep pumped up might be the noise....

Come back tell us what you find...

Edited by c49er (see edit history)
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Thank you c49er. (How do I tag people when I reply)  the one with the brown oil gushing from the base is the one making the noise. I looked listened and felt and I could definitely feel it's that one with my finger. What does this mean? Is it the ball valve in the hydraulic lifter? Does it just need cleaned. Is it difficult to do? 😬

16492034782974423428877013428117.jpg

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So this must mean the ball valve is not working and it's just sucking oil in and pumping it out which is why its gushing, and the noise is the hydraulic "piston" smashing together. Am I getting this right?  Is there a remedy that doesnt require engine removal? Any tricks? 

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The hydraulic lifters in a Chrysler "8" are not available anywhere I know of.

So hopefully once you remove the head/valve and spring you can  remove the hydraulic plunger assembly and carefully clean it up....make sure the check ball seats and will not leak.

It's important to check the hydraulic plunger assembly housing clearance fit to tappet body housing.

All this info is in the 1949-50 Chrysler shop book.

Make sure the valve is not real loose in the valve guide either.

Be sure to twist the spring counter clockwise pushing downward when re-installing the upper pellet into the check ball housing.

I'm assuming only one is clicking.

Very few 1950 Chrysler eight cylinder cars had those Wilcox Rich hydraulic lifters.

These lifters were used in Packard's, some Cadillacs and Lincolns.

Plus used in continental aircraft engines. Of course pellets are slightly different than the Chrysler ones used.

Shown are the same basic lifters in a 53 Dodge truck 413ci six engine.

 plus a factory sales brochure picture.

Lifter Hydraulic Wilcox Rich 413.jpg

413 Hydraulic Lifters and Clearances measurements (21).JPG

 

413 Hydraulic Lifters and Clearances measurements (3).JPG

Edited by c49er (see edit history)
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If they are like the 1951 lifters they can be taken apart and cleaned. I have done this on a 1951 New Yorker V8. There is a trick to cleaning and reassembling them. They are very precisely made with a clearance of .0001 (one ten thousandth of an inch) between the body and hydraulic piston. You must do them one at a time, do not mix up the parts, and reassemble immersed in kerosene or they won't go back together. I took mine apart and cleaned out the sludge with spray carburetor cleaner wiped off with a soft cotton cloth  if I recall right, and assembled them in a pan of kerosene and they worked perfectly.

 

On your car it appears you will have to remove the valve and valve spring to get clearance then pull out the insert leaving the lifter body behind. Take the insert apart, clean, and reassemble. The insert pulls out of the lifter but it may be stuck by sludge and need some cleaning or solvent.

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
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I got it out. Cleaned it. Ball valve seems to be seating well. When I put the plunger in the cylinder (dry), and give it a tap with my finger it springs back some but only if I tap it very quickly. If I keep tapping after about 3 taps its bottomed out. Think it will be okay?  How would I get a new one if need be?

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I doubt you will find that 1950 Chrysler flathead hydraulic lifter new or used anywhere quickly.

Anyway with no oil in the tappet....pushing down quickly on the tappet plunger and quickly releasing..

The plunger should spring right back up. Push it down again ...release it...should spring right back up.

That means the check ball seats and opens.

It also means minimal air leakage between the plunger and the tappet body....meaning proper correct unger to tappet body clearance.

Assembly lifter plunger with no oil!

This will let it quickly fill with oil and pump up (bleed the air out).

Reassemble the engine.

Oil pressure should run at 45-50 lbs above idle.

Hot Idle no less 25lbs.

Valve in guide should show minimal side clearance .004"

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The tight proper OE clearance is around .0015".

That is plenty to let the air pocket push out around the unger as oil is pumped into the lifter tappet assembly.

If you lube the lifter parts it will extend the amount of time the lifters pump up and eliminate noise.

I will find the Wilcox-Rich service bulletin and post it.

Only the outside parts of the lifter are to be lubed.

They actually pump up and are quiet with in five minutes or less @ 50 lbs oil pressure.

I rebuilt two engines using these lifters.

The Chrysler eights should never have 90 lbs of oil pressure...too much.

Also could cause the lifters to pump up too much and possibly hold the valves slightly open.

Possibly the oil pressure relief valve on the lower side of the engine is stuck causing the high oil pressure.

You might want to also  pull the pan and clean the sludge out of it and clean the oil pick up screen too...

 

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Just some mixed up Wilcox-Rich Literature info..one note in some literature they say it can take up to 45 minutes for the lifters to bleed all air out... give it a chance. I've never had them take that long though...

 If it doesn't bleed out after time possible cam lobe wear issue...IDK

 

Wilcox-Rich Service 6.PNG

Wilcox-Rich Service 5.PNG

Wilcox-Rich Service 4.PNG

Wilcox-Rich Service 3.PNG

Wilcox-Rich Service 2.PNG

Wilcox-Rich  Service Instructions.PNG

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From your literature it seems like there is too much oil pressure to that one lifter preventing the ball from seating. I checked the oil pressure regulator. It came right out. Not suck. Anyone have an idea of why this might be happening? ( should I start a new thread by now? I'm new to this site.)

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