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Posted (edited)

04C - Body build 3rd week of April 1966

618-D - black vinyl Strato Bench seat

G2 Paint - Gold with black vinyl top

 

Group 1 Options

E - Tinted glass

X - Power windows

Y - 6-way power bench seat

S - Vacuum trunk release

M - Vacuum door locks

 

Group 2

K - Manual A/C

R - Rear seat speaker

 

Group 4

F - Remote mirror

 

Group 5

K - Door edge guards

 

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)
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Posted
On 3/28/2022 at 7:41 AM, JZRIV said:

04C - Body build 3rd week of April 1966

618-D - black vinyl Strato Bench seat

G2 Paint - Gold with black vinyl top

 

Group 1 Options

E - Tinted glass

X - Power windows

Y - 6-way power bench seat

S - Vacuum trunk release

M - Vacuum door locks

 

Group 2

K - Manual A/C

R - Rear seat speaker

 

Group 4

F - Remote mirror

 

Group 5

K - Door edge guards

 

Thank you 🙏🏽🙏🏽

Posted
On 3/28/2022 at 7:41 AM, JZRIV said:

04C - Body build 3rd week of April 1966

618-D - black vinyl Strato Bench seat

G2 Paint - Gold with black vinyl top

 

Group 1 Options

E - Tinted glass

X - Power windows

Y - 6-way power bench seat

S - Vacuum trunk release

M - Vacuum door locks

 

Group 2

K - Manual A/C

R - Rear seat speaker

 

Group 4

F - Remote mirror

 

Group 5

K - Door edge guards

 

What does manual ac mean? 

Posted (edited)

In 66 for the first time Buick offered automatic A/C climate control which was supposed to automatically maintain a set temperature in varying outside ambient conditions......but it never worked. Of course that technology has improved significantly since but as a first attempt, it failed miserably. They tried to update it in 67 with some changes but still no good. In my opinion it was Buick's worst design of the era. The system was so complex and different from manual its very difficult to convert a car from auto climate control to a manual system.

 

Feel VERY fortunate your car has manual control A/C!

 

I want to ad on the Fisher tag codes, these are codes that required Fisher Body to perform a process to accommodate the specific option. The bodies were built at a different location and shipped to Flint for final assembly. Some options like 4 note horns or AM/FM stereo did not require FB to prep for them so there is no option code on the tag.

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)
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Posted

To add to what Jason said, in 66 and 67, the bodies were built in Euclid, OH (hence an EUB number rather than an FB number) then those bodies were shipped to Flint, MI for final assembly.  

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Posted

I'd very much appreciate some help deciphering my trim tag. I have a 67 Riviera with an AC system that doesn't blow cold air. I'm hoping and praying that it doesn't have an automatic climate control system. From the previous replies, K is for a manual system. What letter or number designates an automatic system. If it is an automatic system, I'll probably try to convert it to a manual system.  I'd like to try and do it myself, but if i can't, I can see how much Vintage Air would charge me to do it. I'm from San Antonio, home of Vintage Air. By the way, does anyone know a link that has instructions on doing an automatic to manual conversion?

Any and all replies are appreciated, thanks.

IMG_20220703_124322681.jpg

Posted (edited)

There is a little confusion on the letter designation on tag for A/C between 66 and 67. In 67, the "E" in 2ER desinates manual A/C. I believe I errored above indicating the K for 66 meant Auto A/C. If anyone else can confirm, please do. Taking a closer look at 1966, I think that "K" desinated manual or auto A/C

 

Auto A/C cars are easily identifiable  when the hood is opened. If your A/C system is intact, much better to rebuild/restore what you have. It won't be cheap (neither would converting to VA)but living in TX it will be money well spent.  

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)
Posted

Thanks JZRIV, tell me how is an auto AC system identifiable under the hood?  My AC unit is completely intact and working, but not blowing cold or cool air. So what should I be looking for under the hood if it were an auto AC unit?

Posted (edited)

Redriv67 you must buy a Buick Chassis Service manual. 

Pic of 67 Auto A/C  with cover installed

 

67 auto ac2.jpg

 

Pic without cover installed showing additional controls that manual A/C car does not have

67 auto ac.jpg

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

The control head on the dash is also different for the climate control system.  The auto system has the word "Automatic" on it below the temp selector.

Edited by EmTee (see edit history)
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Posted

 

 

Because of the pics that JZRIZ posted and EmTee's note of the AC panel having the word "automatic" on it, it was easy to determine that my AC system is a manual system. Hopefully its going to be a lot easier to get the AC working.  With these 100 degrees days down here, it's a very much needed luxury. JZRIZ and EmTee  thanks for helping me with my situation, very much appreciated. 

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Posted

My manual A/C still works, but is low on refrigerant.  I have some old-stock R-12 cans, so I just need to find someone (or educate myself) to properly top it off...

Posted

Tim,

Do you have an R12 can-tap charging hose? If not, thats all you need. When filling the system with engine running maybe 1500 rpm or so and A/C compressor engaged, just watch the site glass on the receiver/dryer and and you will see a stream of small bubbles passing by to where it has a cloudy appearance. Bubbles are confirmation its undercharged. As you are charging with R12 watch the site glass and when bubbles go away and it becomes clear looking, shut the valve off on can; you are good to go. By that time the metal suction line on inner fender should be starting to frost up. Best to do it when its around 80 degrees ambient temp. The original systems hold so much refrigerant there is a margin of error for fill amount so you don't have to be perfect. Unlike modern systems where amount of refrigerant is super critical to proper operation.

I always put the can of refrigerant in a bucket of warm/hot water as that makes it flow much better/faster.

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Posted

AND, don't forget to bleed the air out of the hose BEFORE opening the valve to add Freon.  After the bubbles go away you can actually add another can for a 1/2 pd. additional. Like mentioned these older systems are not as fussy as the newer systems.

 

Tom T.

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Posted

Thanks guys - I appreciate the info.  I was hesitant to do anything for fear of screwing-up my 55 year-old R-12 A/C system.  I see bubbles in the sight glass, so I know it's low on Freon, but i wasn't sure how much to add beyond 'no bubbles'.  Tom answered that part.  ;)

 

I guess I just need to get on Ebay and get myself an R-12 charging hose.  Thanks!

Posted
8 hours ago, EmTee said:

Thanks guys - I appreciate the info.  I was hesitant to do anything for fear of screwing-up my 55 year-old R-12 A/C system.  I see bubbles in the sight glass, so I know it's low on Freon, but i wasn't sure how much to add beyond 'no bubbles'.  Tom answered that part.  ;)

 

I guess I just need to get on Ebay and get myself an R-12 charging hose.  Thanks!

  Be sure to charge the system through the low side. Also, setting up a box fan in front of the AC condensor is advisable

Tom Mooney

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