49 starter switch

[joelj]

I have a 49 Super with a standard transmission and a Stromberg carburetor. Occasionally the starter switch sticks. I have taken the switch  off and replaced the vacuum diaphragm with an NOS replacement. It still sticks occasionally, I can get it to work if I take it off and play with it but I would like to get it working reliably. I hate to admit it but maybe an under the dash backup switch might be more reliable. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[JohnD1956]

I can only speak for the '56 models.  The FSM manual says to clean the switch, which I did by using q tips and rubbing alcohol, and to reassemble it with out any lubricant.  Totally dry.  What does your manual indicate?

[joelj]

My manual describes a different style switch. My switch might be of an earlier design. The vacuum diaphragm kind of reminds me of a mini fuel pump diaphragm, it has a plastic eccentric with a copper contact that works off of the carburetor shaft. When the engine starts the vacuum disegages the contact. Everything is clean and dry less some dielectric lube I used on the contacts. I guess what I might need is a diagram and adjustment procedure for this type of switch. Maybe 1946-1947.

[old-tank]

If equipped look at the starter relay.

[BuickBob49]

I, too, have a 1949 Super with a manual transmission and hydraulic lifters. My car is in remote storage. I recall that the Stromberg carburetor has a vertical plunger set up for the starter switch. At one point it got sticky and wouldn't reset. I could push it up manually and it would reset. My mechanic cleaned it up and it works fine. 

 

Separately, the 1949 Super manual set up with hydraulic lifters is not included in the published literature. We see it showing manual Supers with solid lifters and Dynaflow Supers with hydraulic lifters.

 

My car is late in the model year. The insert bearings were stamped Feb. 1949 and the glass is etched 4-49. Parts bin?

 

[Stu Allen]

On my '49 Super I installed a manual switch under the dash. The vertical plunger switch on the carburetor worked fine but on hot restarts the accel. pump shot was too  much fuel, causing long cranks and black smoke. I bypassed the switch. Our modern high volatility fuel is the root cause. You might want to go this route.

[Marty Roth]

On 3/8/2022 at 7:56 AM, Stu Allen said:

On my '49 Super I installed a manual switch under the dash. The vertical plunger switch on the carburetor worked fine but on hot restarts the accel. pump shot was too  much fuel, causing long cranks and black smoke. I bypassed the switch. Our modern high volatility fuel is the root cause. You might want to go this route.

Our 1937 Roadmaster also has a "backup" button under the dash,

used only when a hot restart does not immediately fire normally,

but generally not needed.

 

I did the same for our 1934, and for the same reason

[joelj]

Thanks for your reply. I removed the switch and cleaned it again. When I reinstalled it again it worked fine. I may still install an auxiliary switch just in case the primary one malfunctions. I want to keep the car as original as possible, but at the same time I don't want to get stuck. Thanks again.

[JohnD1956]

In times when I think my '56 is flooded I will put the accelerator to the floor and keep it there while using the ignition key to turn it over.  Is that something you could do with that switch?

 

[joelj]

No, when it sticks there is no contact with the cam. You have to remove a cover from the switch and get a plastic plunger to pop back into place. In a pinch, you can jump the switch with a short piece of wire with alligator clips from under the hood but thats not very convenient.