Aluminum Rad Fitment

[joe c]

Anyone have issues with fitting an aluminum rad with the rad cap hitting the hood in their Riv

What kind of modification are required to lower the rad. adjusting the hood raises it above the fenders...not pretty

 

Thanks, Joe

[EmTee]

Are you using a 'flat' cap, or one of these...?

 

[joe c]

thanks for the reply...yes I'm using a flat cap. This weekend I took some measurements the difference between both rads seems to be the filler neck, it's 1/2" taller on the new rad then the filler neck on the original rad.

This would make all the difference,  plus the top tank on the original rad is beveled. I'm in talks with the rad supplier to see what options I have...not much by the looks of it.

 

Thanks, Joe

[EmTee]

You might be able to modify the mount to lower the entire radiator, but that may cause other issues (e.g., fan shroud, trans cooler lines, etc.)...

 

Why the aluminum radiator in the first place?

[RivNut]

Could you find someone who can weld aluminum and shorten the neck? Or would that void your warranty?  I would think the manufacturer would be glad to know that this is not a bolt in and be happy to compensate you four your research.  Push ‘em.

[joe c]

I've thought about lowering the rad mount/cradle, you're right that would cause a lot of other mod's too or at least mod's I shouldn't have to do because of a new rad, supposedly exact fit.

I've been in touch with the rad manufacturer and they have requested pictures of the rad in place and clearly it's 1/2" taller in the neck. They suggested I cut down the rubber cushions at the bottom of the rad, my pictures they asked for, the rubbers are remove completely.  They tell me "it shouldn't interfere with my hood and we sell lots of these rads 63-65" Riv

I have the proof of the fitment and don't understand why I can't get a refund or a replacement.

I have been asking around who can cut the neck and tig weld it up...I'm not too worried about a warranty as these guys aren't offering me much help anyway.

I went with an aluminum rad because a friend of mine had his rad tank split apart during a road trip and left us stranded for hours, figured the brass tanks are getting thin and it's time to replace the whole thing before the same happens to me.

I'll be in touch with the rad manufacturer today to see if there is any more they'll do...I'm almost convinced to have my old rad re-cored and take my chance.

 

First picture is the new rad, second is my original rad.

 

Thanks, Joe

[Barney Eaton]

If the cap is hitting a place on the hood where there is underhood reinforcement, you might just cut a small section of that away. 

Hard to tell from the photos, but it appears the taller cap is offset slightly more to the passenger side of the car.

Have you tried marking the hood where it is hitting?  (using clay or plumbers putty)  

It might be as simple as the way the neck is indexed (where the cap stops rotation when locked in place)  one of the bumps on the cap

may be hitting a high spot on the underside of the hood. 

[joe c]

Good point Barney, I'll look at the indexing of the rad/cap.  I did mark the cap with grease then close the hood to see the results. The cap seems to be hitting just before the curve of the hood, if you know what I mean, but not on the reinforcement of the hood. No word yet this morning on the rad manf. on what they can do or suggest.

 

Thanks Joe

[Barney Eaton]

Will it close without the cap?   That will tell you how close you are to success

[EmTee]

1 hour ago, joe c said:

I have been asking around who can cut the neck and tig weld it up...

I think that's your best option at this point.  If the cap is hitting the hood's skin and not a support member then relieving the structure isn't an option (obviously).

 

Maybe add something like this? 

 

[joe c]

Good point on trying it without the cap...I'll give it a try tonight. and I'll have to put the hood back on the car and adjust it, and with no engine in it I can actually get a better look from inside.

 

Humm... I don't think the riv would look good with hood scoops...but I do like these haha...and that would probably solve this issue too!

[kegart]

If the company that sold you the radiator doesn't want to make it right,  maybe you should post their name so other people don't have the same problem. 

 

Kevin 

[avgwarhawk]

Easiest would be to return the radiator.  The next if the manufacture does not want to play ball is have a shop cut the neck to the correct height. Weld. 

  

[joe c]

I get it...I was going to post their name but I'm still going back and forth with them and until there's a compromise... I'll wait for a couple more days. They haven't told me yet that there's nothing more they can do...

I am asking for a refund of some sort or a replacement but if they are all made the same this is pointless, or I could just do exactly what you suggest by cutting the neck and getting it welded or just get my original rad re-cored. I have a few options.

 

Thank Joe

[Galen Shields]

Perhaps the company would swop out a 3 core for the 4 core (if possible) which might be slightly smaller. Searching ideas is all.

Galen

[RivNut]

8 hours ago, joe c said:

I get it...I was going to post their name but I'm still going back and forth with them and until there's a compromise... I'll wait for a couple more days. They haven't told me yet that there's nothing more they can do...

I am asking for a refund of some sort or a replacement but if they are all made the same this is pointless, or I could just do exactly what you suggest by cutting the neck and getting it welded or just get my original rad re-cored. I have a few options.

 

Thank Joe

Let the manufacturer know that you’re posting their name and the part number here, and in the Riview; I’m betting that they won’t want any bad publicity.  IMHO, you’ve bent over backwards as it is.   I’m imagining that if they say that they’ve sold others with no problem, that this one had the wrong filler neck welded on.  Slipped by the inspectors.  They need to send you one that is the correct dimensions and pay for the return of the bad one.  Two wrongs do not make a right.  At some point the mods you make might come back to haunt you.

[joe c]

Guys, here's the update and probably the end of this issue. 

The rad manufacturer requested a few more pictures with the hood on and adjusted to the car and the rad sitting in place. I sent these off this morning but haven't heard back from them yet.

 

The rad I purchased in August of 2021 is from Cold Case part number CHD924A 63-65 Riviera and I complained about the fitment then. No help other than typical like Ed said " we sell lots of these and no one has issues"

Well lots was 29 in total and 6 this year according to the rep.

 

Last night I figured, from going back and forth with the manufacturer I would have make the best of it without going too crazy on modifications.

 

After installing the hood and adjusting it to the fenders. I installed the rad and was able to squeeze 1/4" of clearance after a few modifications without the cushions at the bottom of the rad. Picture 1 rad, rad cap and hood.

I do have a piece 1/16" rubber that should give me enough isolation and not hit the rad cap with the hood when closed.

 

Here's what I did...I removed the rad brackets from the rad cradle and cut out the back side or the side closest to the a/c condenser then reinstalled the brackets, picture 4

this gave me some clearance about 1/8"  and will still be able to hold the fan shroud in place. I also ground the head of the carriage bolt in the center of the cradle that holds the bracket for the headlight motor.

Doing all this gave me 1/4" clearance see picture 2 and when I close the hood it doesn't hit the cap as long as I don't slam it down...which I don't do anyway.

Picture 4 is the cradle before mod's...I didn't get a picture after but you can see the brackets and the carriage bolt I'm talking about.

 

All in all the guy in tech support was helpful but not what I wanted to go through for a direct fit rad...I guess it could have been worse...

So this should be the end of this rad issue, hopefully it was helpful for everyone involved.

Sorry about the sideways pictures...squatting in the engine compartment wasn't very comfortable and a little snug.

 

Thanks for everyone's help,

 

Joe Camisa

 

 

[Craig Balzer]

I might be inclined to leave a comment on their website -- it likely we be deleted in hours/days, so copy/paste onto your personal computer so you can quickly replace it and have it at hand for posting to Yelp BBB, etc.  Otherwise the shop can continue to claim "we sell lots of these and no one has issues"

[joe c]

Here’s a little more on this rad issue. I received email yesterday from the rad manufacturer from my last post when they haven’t replied back to me… Here’s their latest, they explain to me how to close the hood and not to drop it closed…by slowly closing it and press down to lock it in place, which is how I close the hood anyway. They explain doing  this will prevent chips in the paint. I don’t understand why they would think anyone would slam a hood closed.
They also said to lean back the top part of the rad toward the fan by adjusting the upper rad bracket but this won’t work because the fan will hit the shroud, I tried this when I first got the rad and installed it. 
I’ll reply back to their latest email and will post any information for anyone’s curiosity 
 
thanks, Joe

[kegart]

If you bought your radiator from a supplier like Summit or Jegs , you need to let them know the manufacturer doesn't want fix their mistakes.  Every company is going to a mistake occasionally. The difference between a good company and a bad one is how they take care of it.

 

Kevin 

[60FlatTop]

2 hours ago, joe c said:

. I don’t understand why they would think anyone would slam a hood closed.

They probably saw one one those gemokes on a TV reality show slam a hood, pat a fender, kick a tire, throw a tool, you know, the stuff the script writers think cars guys do for comic relief.

 

Next time you talk to the tech guy ask him if he really really thinks Fonzie turns or the juke box by hitting it or if there is a person inside who turns on a switch.

 

I would have asked them for pictures of the prototype installation instead of them asking me for pictures.

[joe c]

Good point… I love it… aaayyy… it didn’t work…. Darn it I’m not the fonz…

I’ll ask him for prototype pictures see what he says. I bought the rad directly from cold case. 
 

thanks for the laughs

 

Joe

[RivNut]

If JEGS and Summit are carrying this, I’m sure they’d be interested in knowing that they’ll be getting returns if they sell any of these.  

[60FlatTop]

3 hours ago, joe c said:

I bought the rad directly from cold case. 
 

  Taking a break from lookin' for the tape measure all morning.

[XframeFX]

On 3/12/2022 at 5:39 AM, joe c said:

by slowly closing it and press down to lock it in place, which is how I close the hood anyway. They explain doing  this will prevent chips in the paint. I don’t understand why they would think anyone would slam a hood closed.

When I had my '87 Buick Grand National and having a pancake hood, the only way to close the it was to slam it. Do not press, really thin hood skin😂

[RivNut]

I've owned a bunch of 1st generation Rivieras and have never had an interference problem with the radiator cap nor have I ever had to slam a hood shut.  Usually letting it drop for 6 inches or so works well.  Don't use a bunch of patch work to fix something that should work correctly in the first place. 

 

It's like the guy who goes in to buy a suit and it doesn't fit.  The salesman has him pull up a sleeve and hold it against his chest.  Then the salesman goes on and has him do a bunch of similar things to the pants, the collar, and the vest.  He walks out of the store and a couple of ladies look at him and one says to the other "poor fellow, so crippled." The other says "Yes, but doesn't his suit fit well."