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63 Riviera: A Build Story


CaliRivin
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If you haven't seen my original post, A New 63 Rivee Has Arrived, my name is Jeremy (ROA#16728) and I have the pleasure of owning a 1963 Riviera. I started this current space to document the journey my car will take while her and I are together.

My plan is to post pics as I go, the steps I take, the people I work with and the progress, failures and successes; expectations compared to realities, and so on.

Any and all are welcome here.The knowledgeable,  the novice, or myself the beginner. Everything is open for discussion. Opinions matter to me. Disagreements are expected and appreciated to further the current knowledge of our beloved rides...first gen Rivees.

Without any more words, I begin the journey here...20220206_092052.jpg.6e81203184d13ef50d35e5ecf512e954.jpg

Edited by 63Rivee (see edit history)
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20220226_163256.jpg.6ddae3fd966a26805e174247dc132e7f.jpgThough the car is beautiful and runs, it has some issues with some cancer spots and wiring issues.

The spots are not horrible for the most part. I will need a new hood, as the nose of mine is deteriorating fast. My trunk has a good spot falling apart on the lowest most corner of the passenger trunk. Behind each rear side window, there are pockets of rust forming and crumbling. A little rust around a fender near the tire opening. And some bubbled up paint.

I also have some aftermarket side rails to remove and the front window needs redoing. Needless to say, it will have to be addressed.

At the same time, my wiring is limited to the power windows and doors, the flatband front to back, wiring assembly connected to a dash with gauges I had purchased, and the center console wiring connectors cut at the harness. The regulators all look bent ir crappy. And the Fuse box is gone.

With this knowledge, I decided to prep for paint and body,as well as get my wiring in line so I can follow up paint and get the electrical dialed in.

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20220221_230304.jpg.53f4c7c3b757c165abf74431a87f8f85.jpg20220221_230339.jpg.c7cb745702935c35316e5b42fd33e327.jpgStarted my prep with the interior. YES! I bagged and tagged everything. Which side of the vehicle, landmarks of placement, any difficulties, whatever. Never can be too sure of memory or how much time will pass between working on that piece.

20220219_141043.jpg.d5324b3805b254bc811c4ae60569da83.jpg20220219_154918.jpg.40c2cea8b75b7b7089a1b9fb8dfd361e.jpg20220219_154926.jpg.050c40ac790235ece09d2fdf192dfd41.jpgGot the front seats out with ease. For anyone whos had to do things the ghetto way on hoopties before with limited space or tools, the bolts were all accessible no matter the placement of the seat and simple to remove. A few in the rear of the front seats, and four holding down the front that acts as clips/hold downs. Loosened those up and pulled them out. I'm 6'5 400lbs and have gorilla strength, so I handled them really. But be mindful the seats are probably heavy for most and take care when removing them.

20220226_142841.jpg.0feb358e29d10c1508c7409f3496b019.jpg20220226_142850.jpg.014a8ebbc6519e5cfc552914ef318ec6.jpg20220226_142856.jpg.c3b8fa260da275451fa60309b1bd5492.jpg20220226_142906.jpg.f813d0938af1f9cbcadc02ea3cbef773.jpg20220226_142911.jpg.33bf06c5c9dcbc526c18cc251588ae3c.jpg20220226_142918.jpg.1ef3d8e219acee65eaf89f4c945987eb.jpg20220226_142921.jpg.2e0aa5ff8082ec0eb1ae3b6d204c1e17.jpg20220226_142928.jpg.c847ed8f6b034658050e949f099a6eac.jpg20220226_142938.jpg.49527a75741903bc22877add51d932fd.jpg20220226_143114.jpg.12c7cbc1470d11e739b85c9ea9ea69eb.jpg20220226_143149.jpg.22c1413beed0ed9043bc64dc006bf63b.jpg20220226_142338.jpg.9852b2b3d88389844ee2cb4c8ef3f39a.jpg20220226_153139.jpg.c3e183cfe7e8d5f9cf9039ee9c29dc3f.jpg20220226_153156.jpg.b91baabc511f20792155132a2f9d1c21.jpg20220226_153150.jpg.ed3e6e2d255de21d0a0f75833433d391.jpg20220226_153910.jpg.44bcf809c9e96a82bd6d141f107cb721.jpg20220226_153923.jpg.fb3bd602158b937e7c79f65b8a0f6846.jpgI removed everything from the inside and placed them on the ground to familiarize myself and snap a pic to remember placement. Some of these parts were in a box in the trunk. All looks to be original to the vehicle and ready to be cleaned up and reinstalled post paint and wiring.

20220226_143420.jpg.a27e2f1a5ae3991ccc96b1a95096e03a.jpg20220226_143443.jpg.dd024436ec024fb356c87d19033421fe.jpg20220226_143907.jpg.f9849767d0ada1d3d7a0b64eca1026ff.jpgIn the trunk junk (but we all know it's treasure), was the original vinyl cover for the dash and other parts to follow, along with what I'm guessing is the twilight sentinel thing powered by this guide-matic. The dash has the old sun beaten marks of where it once sat too. Pretty cool.

Next post will be some parts I have questions about and other fun.

Thanks for looking ya'll

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I see black plates on your car, but it does seem to have more rust than I'd expect for a CA car.  I wonder whether it spent most of its life near the coast, as that might explain the rust around the rain gutters, etc.  All is fixable;  just realize that unlike a Camaro, Mustang or '57 Chevy, you can't buy pre-formed patch panels, fenders, hoods, etc..  Pieces will need to be fabricated from sheet stock, or in the case of floor pans or trunk floor, you may be able to modify pieces designed for another 'similar' car.

 

The good news is you've come to the right place - lots of help is available here and there are many 1st-gen experts that can point you in the right direction as they've been there and know what works.  Hopefully you can get it into shape mechanically so that it can be driven as you work on the cosmetics.  Keeping the car driveable and working on the body in bite-sized pieces will help keep you from feeling overwhelmed.  That will also allow you to pace yourself to match your available budget and time.

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Yeah, I'm guessing it was on the coast out here somewhere too originally. Sat and neglected it for some time. Brutal but easily fixable.

 

As for body, I've noticed from research that not only small and mechanical parts are hard to acquire. But body parts as well. I saw a bunch of great guys and gals out there helping us Rivee owners though throughout the threads here. So that's refreshing. When I get to the actual ship off to the shop, Ill have to get the consensus from yall  on the method of madness to Rivee body repair. I also have faith in my paint and body guy to make magic outta metal and lay down a dope candy paint that'll drip when we drive...so together we will all make it happen.

 

And yes, driveable is good. I used it as my daily all last week and the week before after oil change and tranny top off. Ran like a champ. Only problem, no fuse box and nothing has juice to it. Used a trailer break kit and lights hooked to an Interstate motorcycle battery and a flip switch for stop and on. Flipped it on when I break, off when I go lol.

 

So my plan is to get the wiring together while I ship it off to my boys (my buddy/friends) shop for body and paint. Ill be without a few months. But in the grand scheme of things that's only a smidgen of time compared to the years of enjoyment to come. And will allow me to get everything in order to just run, plug, put back and go. 

 

Thanks for the encouragement and any and all help ahead of time.

 

Jeremy

 

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5 hours ago, 63Rivee said:

My plan is to post pics as I go, the steps I take, the people I work with and the progress, failures and successes; expectations compared to realities, and so on.

Any and all are welcome here.

Jeremy, yes, seen your other post. Rivieras certainly are lookers, Congrats!

My 2 cents: I think you should deal with show stoppers 1st. Get it running and then deal with what you probably have listed already.

My '63 Riv was apart for 30+ years before I finally got back into it. Thought a year would do it. Ended up being about 5 years! I've done a few projects before marriage and kids. Still learning, re-learning.

Many items I had to be re-addressed after my Riv's maiden journey out of it's cocoon. But, I can drive it now.

I would check rear glass for leaks/rusted channel. A good time to have it repaired while the interior is out. Then get the interior put back. Save all old pieces including carpet to help installing a new carpet set and panels. The dashpad will be the last item to install!

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6 minutes ago, XframeFX said:

My 2 cents: I think you should deal with show stoppers 1st. Get it running and then deal with what you probably have listed already.

 

I've done a few projects before marriage and kids.

 

I would check rear glass for leaks/rusted channel. A good time to have it repaired while the interior is out.

 

Save all old pieces including carpet to help installing a new carpet set and panels. The dashpad will be the last item to install!

X, I always appreciate two, three, even four cents. All Cali love from me to anyone out there. Definitely gonna make sure she stays running tip top and shifting, going and stopping. Number one.

 

Glad my two older kids are off and rolling. Just me and the ten year old left to work the Rivee :)

 

Thanks for the idea to check the rear channel. Wouldnt have thought about that. 

 

and got every piece as the pics show above. Nothing is going.

 

Thanks again!

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greetings, Rivee.      At this point you may already have, but if not, you need a subscription to the Review club magazine, where you will find vendors for new & used parts & tech tips. You need factory shop & body manuals, which can also be found there or on eBay. Also on eBay you can acquire a laminated, full-color electrical schematic, as the ones found in repro manuals are generally illegible. You should search this forum for Riviera63's used parts list & start acquiring everything you will need. I also recommend Clark's Corvair, AB&G, Classic Buick, & CarsInc for new & used parts. Check with the forum before making any large purchases, as some sources are known to have problems with parts & service. You may also want to keep your eye out for a good, relatively rust-free parts car to provide the metal you're going to need. Not sure where you're at in Cali, but you may be within driving distance of several desert junkyards in SoCal & Ariz. known to provide rust free Riv body parts. Look for them in the Review. & Don't forget you have a great resource at your disposal in the form of a ten yr old. When I was his age(here we go) my Dad's hobby was buying old cars to fix up & resell. In the process he taught me everything I know & instilled a life-long love of cars, which is something we need more of. & thanks for saving another Riv from the junk heap of history!     drew

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You stated the car is drivable, but have you driven it? Reason I ask is you are bigger than I am, but just slightly. These cars are surprisingly small inside. These are definitely not Electras. First look into mounting the seat further back. Even when all the way back, you will not have enough leg room with the stock mounting location. Plan on about 3” back. Second, plan on changing the steering wheel. A smaller wheel will give more clearance for your legs, both egress and normal driving. Don’t think you are going for a 100 point restoration to original, so I don’t think either of these will be an issue. A car that is uncomfortable to drive will not be driven, no matter how pretty you make it. Both of these helped my car tremendously.

Edited by steelman (see edit history)
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9 hours ago, 63Rivee said:

X, I always appreciate two, three, even four cents. All Cali love from me to anyone out there. Definitely gonna make sure she stays running tip top and shifting, going and stopping. Number one.

 

Glad my two older kids are off and rolling. Just me and the ten year old left to work the Rivee :)

 

Thanks for the idea to check the rear channel. Wouldnt have thought about that. 

 

and got every piece as the pics show above. Nothing is going.

 

Thanks again!

You've mention the transmission a couple of times.  I recall but cannot find your post where you referred to the transmission as a 2 speed.  If you're not familiar with the Buick Dynaflow, which is the transmission that all 1963 Rivieras were equipped with, you'll soon find out that the Dynaflow does not shift.  From a dead stop to top end, it's one smooth journey, similar to today's CVT transmissions - Continuously Variable.  There is a low gear but according to the chassis manual it's for mud, sand, and snow when a constant gear is needed.  So when you get it going and you're doing 75 don't think "there's something wrong with my transmission, it won't shift."  Just enjoy that Dynaflow hum*"

 

 

 

*Credit to Jim Cannon, ROA's 1963 Tech Advisor.

Edited by RivNut
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3 hours ago, RIVNIK said:

Review club magazine, where you will find vendors for new & used parts & tech tips.

 

You should search this forum for Riviera63's used parts list & start acquiring everything you will need. I also recommend Clark's Corvair, AB&G, Classic Buick, & CarsInc for new & used parts.

 

& Don't forget you have a great resource at your disposal in the form of a ten yr old. When I was his age(here we go) my Dad's hobby was buying old cars to fix up & resell. In the process he taught me everything I know & instilled a life-long love of cars, which is something we need more of. & thanks for saving another Riv from the junk heap of history!   

Drew, I'll never get tired of saying thank you to yall for the welcome, advice and support. So thank you.

 

Definitely got my subscription and already thumbing pages in the digital library. Ordering the chassis manual and schematic this weekend. And parts help is plentiful here. I think its Tom, a 63 guy, reached out via email and took care of me too. All love

 

And yes, my ten year old is my greatest resource of inspiration, love, support, and reality checks lol I love her to death for it all I can hope is that I can instill at least half of what your father instilled in you.

 

Thank you again and saving this gal was the easiest choice I've ever made.

 

Jeremy

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2 hours ago, steelman said:

You stated the car is drivable, but have you driven it?

 

First look into mounting the seat further back. Even when all the way back, you will not have enough leg room with the stock mounting location. Plan on about 3” back. Second, plan on changing the steering wheel. 

 

Don’t think you are going for a 100 point restoration to original, so I don’t think either of these will be an issue.

Steel, I definitely drove it man. Two weeks back and forth to work. It was awesome! I know whatchya mean about smaller and room though. It's not an uncomfortable ride by any means. But as big guys we could always use more space. I'm definitely moving the seat back. 3 inches would be more than love. And the steering wheel will saddly go most likely. But I'd like to find something similar or close just smaller.

 

And you know she's gonna be hybrid. Part original beast part sexy custom gal. Lol

 

Thanks for the heads up. I read some posts from years ago on the subject of seat placement. So it's good to hear from someone who's

done it and using it.

 

Jeremy

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1 hour ago, RivNut said:

You've mention the transmission a couple of times.  I recall but cannot find your post where you referred to the transmission as a 2 speed.  If you're not familiar with the Buick Dynaflow, which is the transmission that all 1963 Rivieras were equipped with, you'll soon find out that the Dynaflow does not shift.  From a dead stop to top end, it's one smooth journey.....So when you get it going and you're doing 75 don't think "there's something wrong with my transmission, it won't shift."  Just enjoy that Dynaflow hum*"

 

*Credit to Jim Cannon, ROA's 1963 Tech Advisor.

Hey Rivnut, If I had to guess, I use the term "2 speed" because I was familiar with the power glide for so long that the term just sticks when I see a vehicle with on a L and D and talk about it. Most people aren't knowledgeable about the tranny like you all and the only way I can explain it is to say, it's like the power glide but way better and smooth like butter lol Its all my non-mechanic self could come up with :)

But yes, I've been familiarizing myself with the dynaflow and read quite a bit about them via the posts here and Jim's knowledge.  (Got through about 55 pages of posts so far...im trying)

In regards to shifting, my tranny was in need of fluid and use, and for the first few days of running her, the initial movement in to gear was slow and kinda sudden, like shifting. It's worked itself out and is as Jim's words have promised and I have learned to enjoy the hum.

 

Jeremy

 

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If/when you have a chassis manual in hand, all of these accessories are well detailed and most have a trouble shooting guide with them. I think that the wring diagram in the chassis manual is not as clear ( it’s black and white, and small.  A nice alternative is the 11” x 17” laminated one that you can get off eBay.  It’s in color and there are schematics on the back for the Sears and windows.  Well worth the $$.

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Hi 63Rivee

enjoying your post as it brings back some memories. You may want to consider converting the dash lamps and courtesy lamps to LEDs which makes a vast improvement over the original incandescent globes. Mine always amazes me when I drive at night or early mornings. And with a bit of cleaning you can often get the Borg clock to work again which is a plus. Look forward to seeing your progress!

Rodney 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

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Look at the selection of aftermarket steering wheels by Grant. They make a wheel that is styled after the '60s era Corvette, but very similar in appearance to the Riv GranSport wheel, only with a smaller diameter & fatter rim. Had one on my '65 for years & considered it a big improvement to the large skinny stock wheel, although it would not cancel the turn signal. The Grant wheel also comes with an authentic looking Riviera "R" hub. Eventually I restored my stock wheel & reinstalled it for the sake of originality, but I have to admit the car drove better with the modern type fat rim. Anyhoo, good luck with your

 project. We've all got your back!           Drew.             ps Ed: IMO, credit for "Dynaflow Hum" also goes to the great Frank Zappa, who I believe Jim was paraphrasing.  Who knows what what else Jim was up to in the '70s!

 

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3 hours ago, RIVNIK said:

      ps Ed: IMO, credit for "Dynaflow Hum" also goes to the great Frank Zappa, who I believe Jim was paraphrasing.  Who knows what what else Jim was up to in the '70s!

 

I’ve heard that song.  Sounds somewhat similar. 😎. Dinah Moe Hum.  

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On 2/27/2022 at 7:14 AM, RIVNIK said:

greetings, Rivee.      At this point you may already have, but if not, you need a subscription to the Review club magazine, where you will find vendors for new & used parts & tech tips. You need factory shop & body manuals, which can also be found there or on eBay. Also on eBay you can acquire a laminated, full-color electrical schematic, as the ones found in repro manuals are generally illegible. You should search this forum for Riviera63's used parts list & start acquiring everything you will need. I also recommend Clark's Corvair, AB&G, Classic Buick, & CarsInc for new & used parts. Check with the forum before making any large purchases, as some sources are known to have problems with parts & service. You may also want to keep your eye out for a good, relatively rust-free parts car to provide the metal you're going to need. Not sure where you're at in Cali, but you may be within driving distance of several desert junkyards in SoCal & Ariz. known to provide rust free Riv body parts. Look for them in the Review. & Don't forget you have a great resource at your disposal in the form of a ten yr old. When I was his age(here we go) my Dad's hobby was buying old cars to fix up & resell. In the process he taught me everything I know & instilled a life-long love of cars, which is something we need more of. & thanks for saving another Riv from the junk heap of history!     drew

If he buys a rust free parts car to get the sheetmetal he needs, he would be buying a restorable car to cut up and destroy to repair the rusty parts car he has now. Does that make any sense?

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7 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

You may want to consider converting the dash lamps and courtesy lamps to LEDs which makes a vast improvement....And with a bit of cleaning you can often get the Borg clock to work again which is a plus.

 

Look forward to seeing your progress! 

Thanks Rodney,

Much love for any and all recommendations. I saw posts by Jim and others about the lights and having the opportunity I do with the car driveable but gutted, I'm definitely going the upgraded route. I'm almost half way to death (in my 40s) and my eyes aren't getting any better lol.

 

And I look forward to seeing the progress too, but sharing it with people who genuinely care is a huge us. So thank you.

 

Jeremy

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3 minutes ago, TexRiv_63 said:

Jeremy, sign me up for the journey.

Ok, lemme see here..., ah, yes,...I see your spot reserved on my list right here hahahaha!

 

Thanks man. I need all the O.G's of the Rivee fam I can get.

 

Happy to have ya aboard!

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5 hours ago, RIVNIK said:

Look at the selection of aftermarket steering wheels by Grant.... The Grant wheel also comes with an authentic looking Riviera "R" hub.

 

Anyhoo, good luck with your

 project. We've all got your back!                       

 

ps Ed: IMO, credit for "Dynaflow Hum" also goes to the great Frank Zappa, who I believe Jim was paraphrasing.  Who knows what what else Jim was up to in the '70s!

 

Thanks for the lead man. And I love the R emblem. I don't mind the 63 rockin' the tri-shield style throughout, but something about that smooth R is awesome. 

 

And thank you for being on my team and having my back. I love the support always and give mine in return wherever I can.

 

Also, I knew I liked yall already, but a Zappa reference means I know I'm in good company... much love man

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20220305_155231.jpg.7a4ab6349d5a186ce255ab172676f96d.jpgThis is where we find ourselves today. Got the floor cleared up of almost everything and I'm looking to sand her front to back interior wise. To not overwhelm myself, I'm gonna break the work down in sections, i.e the passenger seat area, driver seat, rear seat floor, rear seat back rest, rear window and sil, rear quarter window metal (top behind and bottom button side), kick panels, under dash/firewall, roof metal, and touch up.

Not 100% sure on what my plans are for coverage. I'd like to seal it with a rust protectant and clear coat im thinking. And then cover it with a sound deadener before insulation and carpet.

Hit one spot with the wire brush right quick and already watching the magic of metal, high speeds, friction and rust removal in action.

Stay tuned for more ya'll.20220305_161319.jpg.d9bbf9e81f5d162689e151fe5ef6e9ab.jpg

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On 2/27/2022 at 2:38 AM, 63Rivee said:

20220221_230304.jpg.53f4c7c3b757c165abf74431a87f8f85.jpg20220221_230339.jpg.c7cb745702935c35316e5b42fd33e327.jpgStarted my prep with the interior. YES! I bagged and tagged everything. Which side of the vehicle, landmarks of placement, any difficulties, whatever. Never can be too sure of memory or how much time will pass between working on that piece.

20220219_141043.jpg.d5324b3805b254bc811c4ae60569da83.jpg20220219_154918.jpg.40c2cea8b75b7b7089a1b9fb8dfd361e.jpg20220219_154926.jpg.050c40ac790235ece09d2fdf192dfd41.jpgGot the front seats out with ease. For anyone whos had to do things the ghetto way on hoopties before with limited space or tools, the bolts were all accessible no matter the placement of the seat and simple to remove. A few in the rear of the front seats, and four holding down the front that acts as clips/hold downs. Loosened those up and pulled them out. I'm 6'5 400lbs and have gorilla strength, so I handled them really. But be mindful the seats are probably heavy for most and take care when removing them.

20220226_142841.jpg.0feb358e29d10c1508c7409f3496b019.jpg20220226_142850.jpg.014a8ebbc6519e5cfc552914ef318ec6.jpg20220226_142856.jpg.c3b8fa260da275451fa60309b1bd5492.jpg20220226_142906.jpg.f813d0938af1f9cbcadc02ea3cbef773.jpg20220226_142911.jpg.33bf06c5c9dcbc526c18cc251588ae3c.jpg20220226_142918.jpg.1ef3d8e219acee65eaf89f4c945987eb.jpg20220226_142921.jpg.2e0aa5ff8082ec0eb1ae3b6d204c1e17.jpg20220226_142928.jpg.c847ed8f6b034658050e949f099a6eac.jpg20220226_142938.jpg.49527a75741903bc22877add51d932fd.jpg20220226_143114.jpg.12c7cbc1470d11e739b85c9ea9ea69eb.jpg20220226_143149.jpg.22c1413beed0ed9043bc64dc006bf63b.jpg20220226_142338.jpg.9852b2b3d88389844ee2cb4c8ef3f39a.jpg20220226_153139.jpg.c3e183cfe7e8d5f9cf9039ee9c29dc3f.jpg20220226_153156.jpg.b91baabc511f20792155132a2f9d1c21.jpg20220226_153150.jpg.ed3e6e2d255de21d0a0f75833433d391.jpg20220226_153910.jpg.44bcf809c9e96a82bd6d141f107cb721.jpg20220226_153923.jpg.fb3bd602158b937e7c79f65b8a0f6846.jpgI removed everything from the inside and placed them on the ground to familiarize myself and snap a pic to remember placement. Some of these parts were in a box in the trunk. All looks to be original to the vehicle and ready to be cleaned up and reinstalled post paint and wiring.

20220226_143420.jpg.a27e2f1a5ae3991ccc96b1a95096e03a.jpg20220226_143443.jpg.dd024436ec024fb356c87d19033421fe.jpg20220226_143907.jpg.f9849767d0ada1d3d7a0b64eca1026ff.jpgIn the trunk junk (but we all know it's treasure), was the original vinyl cover for the dash and other parts to follow, along with what I'm guessing is the twilight sentinel thing powered by this guide-matic. The dash has the old sun beaten marks of where it once sat too. Pretty cool.

Next post will be some parts I have questions about and other fun.

Thanks for looking ya'll

Just googled the name shown on the Buick Expressly built for William S. Kellogg batch. That is what pops up first. The forbes list of the richest Americans #320.  he was born 1943, not to young to be first owner.

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Edited by OldGerman (see edit history)
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On 2/27/2022 at 7:14 AM, RIVNIK said:

greetings, Rivee.      At this point you may already have, but if not, you need a subscription to the Review club magazine, where you will find vendors for new & used parts & tech tips. You need factory shop & body manuals, which can also be found there or on eBay. Also on eBay you can acquire a laminated, full-color electrical schematic, as the ones found in repro manuals are generally illegible. You should search this forum for Riviera63's used parts list & start acquiring everything you will need. I also recommend Clark's Corvair, AB&G, Classic Buick, & CarsInc for new & used parts. Check with the forum before making any large purchases, as some sources are known to have problems with parts & service. You may also want to keep your eye out for a good, relatively rust-free parts car to provide the metal you're going to need. Not sure where you're at in Cali, but you may be within driving distance of several desert junkyards in SoCal & Ariz. known to provide rust free Riv body parts. Look for them in the Review. & Don't forget you have a great resource at your disposal in the form of a ten yr old. When I was his age(here we go) my Dad's hobby was buying old cars to fix up & resell. In the process he taught me everything I know & instilled a life-long love of cars, which is something we need more of. & thanks for saving another Riv from the junk heap of history!     drew

I would add Tom Mooney to the list of sources above . Probably the most knowledgeable first generation Riv guy out there along with Gene Guanere. You will find that the “smalls” are often the most difficult to locate so save and label  EVERYTHING as you disassemble , right down to nuts and bolts . 
KReed

ROA 14549

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2 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

Great picture with the DeWalt cordless drill. I never thought of putting a wire brush in the chuck. There will be a couple in the carrying bag by this afternoon. Good idea for big or small jobs.

Thanks! Yeah, I've always been limited on tools and had to make due with what I got at times. So ya may see some ghetto rigged stuff from time to time here, but like the dewalt/brush combo, ya may just come to like'm too lol.

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1 hour ago, OldGerman said:

Just googled the name shown on the Buick Expressly built for William S. Kellogg batch. That is what pops up first. The forbes list of the richest Americans #320.  he was born 1943, not to young to be first owner.

56932BD9-4B7F-472C-B891-384B04637181.png

So I also tried to do some research, seeing that the car has a lil more rust than most California cars, also has the original California plate, and as you pointed to the name on the radio bezel.

From what I gathered, I think it may be William S Kellogg of La Jolla beach California? Started the beach and tennis club there. Died in the mid 80s (to add to this bit of history, all the coins I've found in the car under things have years in the mid to early 80s?). All this could be coincidence too. Just tried to Columbo Holmes the information too a lil. I like any and all possibilities as to who the original owner was. Love to get a pic of her from back then too. I'd trade the bezel to the family for some nostalgia like that even.

 

Much appreciated for your time on this Old German and thanks for visiting the build here.

 

Jeremy

ROA 16728

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10 minutes ago, kreed said:

I would add Tom Mooney to the list of sources above . Probably the most knowledgeable first generation Riv guy out there along with Gene Guanere. You will find that the “smalls” are often the most difficult to locate so save and label  EVERYTHING as you disassemble , right down to nuts and bolts . 
KReed

ROA 14549

Tom reached out to me via email and introduced himself and gave me the warm welcome and tour of the place. Definitely will be using him  for my needs.

And I've read through about 75pages of the 300 topics in the forum and quickly learned that I need to get to know Gene and find a way to get to his pad for parts and pick up everything I need for my gal.

And nothing is displaced, misplaced or mislabeled. Everything gets bagged and tagged.

 

Thanks a bunch for any and all information/help you have and appreciate ya joining along on this journey.

 

Jeremy

ROA 16728

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20220312_173359.jpg.bee6de727a93219139f4cf4d0150e115.jpgso we are back for more sanding this weekend. My wire brush wore out and I have to get some more, but I got through a good chunk. More brushes soon...more sanding pics.

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With my sanding halted, I decided to look into playing with my taillights since the connection looked exactly like the one I had been using for my switch activated trailer lights.

To my suprise, the connections and wiring were identical and the switch activated them exactly as planned.

So I guess my main find is that anyone wanting to bypass the flatband and hook directly to the rear lights (including the license plate), here's an option.

I'll get back to yall on this as I find the switch application to illuminate the break lights and blinkers.

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Thanks for visiting and more to come.

Oh, and I got my chassis manual and schematic. Super helpful.

20220312_173105.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looking at the photos of your kick panel fresh air vents, they look different from my '63 vents. They might have been moved over from the interior of a later year's car.  Here is one of mine. I recently had them out to replace the carpet covering on both (having redone the carpet on the whole car last year).

 

Driver side kick panel and vent.jpeg

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4 minutes ago, Jim Cannon said:

Looking at the photos of your kick panel fresh air vents, they look different from my '63 vents. They might have been moved over from the interior of a later year's car.  Here is one of mine. I recently had them out to replace the carpet covering on both (having redone the carpet on the whole car last year).

 

Driver side kick panel and vent.jpeg

Yeah, looks like the are a little further toward the cabin maybe on mine. Must have been replaced. Thanks for noticing man.

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19 minutes ago, Bleach said:

I'm surprised with the hood, trunk and C panel rust with really solid floors.

Me too. Looks like just the outer metal got the brunt of it. The frame is solid, the floors/inside, the trunk, even the back and front windows where it looks rough is still just thick surface crap like the floors. Got lucky...

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