Lahti35 Posted May 24, 2022 Author Share Posted May 24, 2022 11 hours ago, dibarlaw said: The former owner had a large cork with a Romex wire staple holding it on. Quite heavy. Interesting to see those "old tyme" fixes, creative indeed! I almost wish I just had a gauge on the tank since it's a less complicated affair. We'll see how the gauge works when I get some gas in there. There is some resistance to the wire moving, more than I would like but I'm not ready to replace the wire yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted May 24, 2022 Share Posted May 24, 2022 The wire is very similar to piano wire of the same diameter. The location of the armor covering is very delicate for free movement. Even though I have functioning gages on my tanks. I still made up a gage stick showing more accurate gallon markings. E-1/4-1/2-3/4-F leaves a lot of room for interpretation. I had a spare fuel tank. Set up in the correct attitude then added one gallon of water at a time recording the level on a stick. I had it set up on a set of fiberglass stationary laundry tubs. By the 17-gallon mark it was quite heavy and awkward to be able to tip it to spill the water out when I was done. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 3, 2022 Author Share Posted June 3, 2022 Still waiting on the machine shop making the new oil pump shafts, not much else going on... The scammers are busy though! I got a reply to an ad I posted looking for a gas cap and oil pump. Wouldn't you know it, an elderly gentleman is breaking up a car and can supply me with parts! The only problem is the car he's busting up is mine, lol! Poor choice of pictures Mr. Scammer! What is one to do with these these fine folks... Whip up a list of fake parts of course and see how much he's charging for my requested goodies! We went around for awhile, myself feigning difficulties with paypal requiring help from my fictitious granddaughter, thanking him for helping, requesting alternate payment options... He did give me routing and account numbers to a real bank in the US using another name on the east coast and an alternate address on the west coast. Eventually I had to get some real stuff done and dropped the bomb after a few days... Since he ended every message with "God Bless" i thought it was only fair to return the sentiment. What a world! LOL! 4 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 Lahti: What a bold slimeball! Thinking of you this weekend as there was a 1923 Nash at the VMCCA Nickel tour at Grantsville, MD. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 9, 2022 Author Share Posted June 9, 2022 On 6/5/2022 at 11:25 PM, dibarlaw said: Thinking of you this weekend as there was a 1923 Nash at the VMCCA Nickel tour at Grantsville, MD. Looks like a nice one! Nice to see a same era Nash spotted in the wild! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 20, 2022 Author Share Posted June 20, 2022 (edited) I talked to the machinist yesterday and supposedly he'll have my oil pump shafts done Monday afternoon, hopefully he will but it's 4 weeks overdue so far... In the mean time I pulled the vacuum tank of the firewall after noticing some small chunks of stuff when I emptied it via the fuel line to the carb. I didn't like the looks of the mating surface between the tank and top either which has some ancient sealer smeared around it. This valve was leaking also and when I took it apart the threads were messed up on the internal bit. The body where the packing seals is also missing a chunk so I'll have to find a replacement. I have to be able to cut gas to the carb when the car is not in use, safety first! I carefully pulled the top off the tank and immediately discovered some issues... The fuel inlet was clogged with junk, strange junk! Bits that looked like pink Easter basket grass, flecks of shiny silver, dirt and some long things that looked like wood slivers. Once cleaned out I could see through the screen... good job catching crap Mr. Screen! Also plugged was the vent into the outer tank... the sealer someone in the past had used had packed the passage closed. I picked the bulk of the junk out in preparation for the Chem-Dip cleaner. After manual removal of all the easy to get crud the top assembly was ready for a dip in the cleaner can. After the Chem-Dip. It came out much cleaner and the mechanism works much more crisply now. All the varnish and fine white powdery stuff is gone. The cleaner had no bad effects on the pot metal, other than darkening it some, washing with water cleans the solution away. After cleaning I found a crack in the gas inlet neck. I'll grind out some of the material around the crack and patch with some JB weld. Since it's not submerged in gas the JB weld should hold for some time. The rest of the top is crack free. This part also seems broken, missing 3 tabs. It sits at the bottom of the inner tank, the float shaft goes through it but I'm not sure of it's purpose just yet... All in all it's safe to say the vacuum tank was not at optimal performance! Edited June 20, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan95 Posted June 20, 2022 Share Posted June 20, 2022 I'll be going through our vacuum tank as well sometime in the next year. These mechanisms are so interesting to me. I had some thoughts for your lid with the cracked inlet. It needs to be a strong repair or your will have a difficult time fighting air leaks and future cracking. Being pot metal, soldering isn't a good solution, as you have probably also decided. JB weld in my experience is great for reinforcement and sealing, but I'd have a hard time trusting it to hold a crack together. Maybe along with the JB, a friction fit collar on the outside would be helpful. I imagine something like a short piece of brass tubing of the right size. There is probably some taper to the casting so that it could come out of the mould. That might aid in a collar tightening up as it's driven on. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viv w Posted June 20, 2022 Share Posted June 20, 2022 I repaired a cracked one many years ago for a friend and it is still okay. I made a steel sleeve to go on the outside of the part that is cracked and made it as a light push on fit to push the crack together. This will stop the crack opening when screwing in the pipe fitting. I then screwed the pipe fitting into the top using some PTFE thread tape and it has never given trouble or leaked since. Another thing to check, the one flip flop valve has a brass insert fitted into the diecast metal top of the tank, these come loose and will occasionally fall down jamming the valve. It is intermittent and will drive you crazy if you don't know about it. Check this on your top for looseness. If loose a tiny drop of Loctite permanent bearing lock will stop this happening. As for the washer and strange tab item, I have never seen these in a Stewart autovac before and I don't think they belong inside the tank. Regards Viv. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke01 Posted June 20, 2022 Share Posted June 20, 2022 Ryan: PM sent. Zeke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodneybeauchamp Posted June 21, 2022 Share Posted June 21, 2022 On 6/20/2022 at 9:25 PM, viv w said: I then screwed the pipe fitting into the top using some PTFE thread tape and it has never given trouble or leaked since. I like the idea of using a steel or brass collar but think that a liquid sealer suitable for natural gas and propane as well as fuel would be a better alternative. I no longer use PTFE tape on any fitting (plumbing or automotive) and have had great success with liquid alternatives, most of which are anaerobic. One in the photo I used on my convertible top hydraulics with good results. Just my two bobs worth 😀😀😀😀😀 Rodney 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 22, 2022 Author Share Posted June 22, 2022 (edited) Thanks all for the great suggestions! I may not have to deal with the crack, a kind forum member has sent me a top to try out that appears to be crack free... While waiting for that to show I'm back on the oil pump. The machine shop finished up and I grabbed them on the way home today. I pressed the gears on this evening and so far so good! I had to do some minor filing on a few of the teeth before the driven gear would spin 360 but it was very minor. The shafts are nice and tight in the bushings, no slop. Case clearance on the gear teeth is tight and both gears revolve around the center of the shaft, no more eccentric action as before. Gee, it only took 3 months and $500 to get it sorted out! Looking forward to oil pressure, yay! Edited June 22, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 26, 2022 Author Share Posted June 26, 2022 (edited) Got the oil pump fully reassembled this AM, those relief valve flow tube "horns" make me want to lasso cattle. Strange design! When I originally got into the oil pan the relief valve pressure adjuster was unscrewed almost to it's limit. When I got a copy of the correct manual it showed it set flush with the relief valve body. Not only was the pump barely working, it was also at it's lowest pressure setting. It's now set correctly and secured with a cotter pin instead of wire as before. This evening I had an hour and installed it without any drama back into it's home. I rotated the crank to make sure it wouldn't contact the relief valve "horns" and had to make a small adjustment on one. It's good to go now, always nice to get a project off my workbench after weeks and weeks! Edited June 26, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 27, 2022 Author Share Posted June 27, 2022 I spent yesterday working on the oil pan on and off between other projects, the goal was to get it installed by the end of the day. I thought I'd run a test and see if I could uncover the leak around the filler casting. I got to thinking a while back that maybe leaking oil pan gaskets running down the pan sides and collecting at the casting (the lowest point) faked a previous owner into thinking the casting solder was leaking. I set the pan on some blocks and filled it to above the filler neck solder joint with lacquer thinner. I figured if it leaked with oil the much less viscous thinner would leak right away. It sat on my bench for an hour with no leaks anywhere. I think it was a leak around the pan edges or the felt end seals dripping down, the original pan gaskets I removed were poorly RTV'd on and of thin paper instead of cork. Satisfied with the leak test I cleaned the brass screens and fastened them back into the pan shelves. The new gaskets from Olson's are much better quality than the old ones. I trimmer the felt seals a bit proud so they compressed when installed and used some permatex ultra black on the pan side only of the gaskets except at the ends where the cork met the felt, a dab there to aid in sealing on the block side. I spent an 1/2 hour slowly working the bolts around the pan to draw the gaskets up to the block, just enough to get the permatex to start to squish out. I'll retighten tonight as it will be fully cured. Oil goes in tonight and I do the oil pressure check, long time coming! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 28, 2022 Author Share Posted June 28, 2022 (edited) Success! I filled her with conventional 10W-30 and began cranking. I must admit I got a bit worried after the 2nd attempt and still nothing but on the 3rd try the system primed and a beautiful thing happened... Way better than the old pump's pressure. Nash spec says between 20-30psi at operating RPM, it barely reached 20 before at high RPM. I'll see what she reads when hot but it's clear the pump is doing great so far. We're on schedule for a 4th of July holiday weekend fire up... now on to the vacuum tank and plumbing. Edited June 28, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted June 28, 2022 Share Posted June 28, 2022 Now THAT is good to see. That is the sort of a nightmare problem most people could never fix. Kudos for seeing it through. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 1, 2022 Author Share Posted July 1, 2022 (edited) The Nash lives! I just wish my camera work was better... Oh well, better to come. It coughed to life fairly quickly, good for an engine that hasn't run in a year. After some quick mixture adjustment it ran much better. Still some timing and mixture work to be done. I had a leak at the vacuum tank flare fitting, I have it rigged up with just the outer tank temporarily. The old lines are single flare brass, been on and off a million times I'm sure, it's on the fix list. Float level is off, too low. The modern float is very buoyant. I'll be fixing that once the vacuum tank is done. Probably opening up the jets a hair to cope with ethanol also after some driving runs. I'm happy though, throttle response is good and it starts easy. I'll be interested to see how it does when it's more dialed in. Looking forward to it moving under it's own power. Edited July 1, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Harper Posted July 2, 2022 Share Posted July 2, 2022 Well done! Thank you for for this thread so we could follow along. Most wonderful! Now enjoy! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 4, 2022 Author Share Posted July 4, 2022 (edited) Kind of a lazy day today so I thought I'd back the Nash out and wash off 4 months of work dust. Sadly I had to push it out, still waiting for a fuel line fitting but hopefully this week. Some after bath beauty shots... I noticed the tires had some oxidation or something on them a few months ago. Getting her out into the light really showed the discoloration. I'm not sure what this is, the tires are soft and no cracking whatsoever. Anyone see a black wall do this? UV exposure maybe? The tires are Universals. I thought I'd start gentle and just use some armor all on a rag. Some gentle rubbing seemed to removed a lot of it, some further more vigorous scrubbing removed 90% of it. Whatever it is the brown stuff came off on the rag. There are a few stubborn spots but I think I'll try some scotch brite and see where it gets me. Edit: My wife, bless her heart, researched the tires and discovered it is called 'tire bloom". Some sort of anti aging component reaching the surface of the tire and reacting with the atmosphere. Lots of online tips for taking care of this to check out. Edited July 4, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 6, 2022 Author Share Posted July 6, 2022 (edited) I had received a couple of vacuum tank tops from a nice forum member... After cleaning I couldn't get the better of the two lids to function well. The vent/vacuum assembly did not want to snap up when held in the vertical position, it would do it in any other position but up. Close examination revealed the issue to be a crooked pin hole that had the actuating arm off center, it would wedge the vent valve in it's bore instead of allowing it to pop up. This is turn would not allow the vacuum valve to close. With nothing to loose I thought I'd enlarge the pin hole a bit while straightening the bore also.... No problems there. The vent valve assembly is not meant to come apart, I figured I would try and grind the mushroomed end off and see if it would come apart... I wanted to be able to remove the assembly and clean the seats and valves, the vacuum valve wasn't sealing well. Some careful work with a dremel tool and I removed just enough to pop the base off. I had run across a website selling replacement vent assemblies (for $82, ouch!) They advised that the new assembly would need to be soldered together and it got me thinking. Why couldn't I just solder mine back together? When assembled it looks like this: So I cleaned everything up and soldered it back together. Went well, I used an electric soldering gun to try first but it wouldn't get things hot enough so I graduated to a propane torch with only short hits with the flame. After cleaning things up it worked great! Problem solved, the extra play allowed things to line up and seal as they are supposed to. All that was left was to install the brass pin that holds it together and carefully peen the ends to keep it in place. And that's where it all went to $&^# Well dang! Even with gentle peening on the pin WITH the pin supported from underneath, not the top itself, the ears cracked off and left it useless. Mama said there'd be days like this. Pot metal is the devil's invention, no doubt about it. Working with peanut brittle would feel safer. Plan C is a new repro aluminum top from down under, should be here in 1-2 weeks via express post and we'll try again. A small bump on the road of life, nothing we can't overcome. Edited July 6, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted July 6, 2022 Share Posted July 6, 2022 Oh how I wished that this post would have been a video of the car running! I have experienced this type of final step failure many times in my 1920s Buick adventures. That is why I am either in the basement or in a detatched garage to be alble to deflect flying parts and profanity. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan95 Posted July 6, 2022 Share Posted July 6, 2022 Maybe next time opt for a pin with a hole in the end for a small cotter pin or other kind of clip. Even with an aluminum casting I would fear snapping the legs off by trying to peen the end. I'm thankful that you're showing what you learn on this as I will be doing the same project here eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted July 6, 2022 Share Posted July 6, 2022 JB-Weld! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 6, 2022 Author Share Posted July 6, 2022 1 hour ago, ryan95 said: Maybe next time opt for a pin with a hole in the end for a small cotter pin or other kind of clip. Even with an aluminum casting I would fear snapping the legs off by trying to peen the end. I'm thankful that you're showing what you learn on this as I will be doing the same project here eventually. I had though about this also... A cotter pin the right diameter would stick out in the path of the spring on one side. The springs travel past the pin every time the float goes up or down and I didn't want it to catch. The original pin is like 1/16" in diameter, not a lot of meat there to bore through for a retaining pin on either side and it would also be sticking out on both sides getting closer to the springs than the original pin. I've done this before and was successful in the peening using a very small hammer and gentle tapping on the brass pin, no luck this time though. Might be a crapshoot with each top on an individual basis due to age or deterioration. Maybe a small machine screw with a distorted nut for locking would be the way to go. When the aluminum one get's here I'll show the process again, not sure if I have to drill the pin holes or not. I do see they have the brass seats installed. The Filling Station of Chevy fame carries them but they are somewhat cheaper direct from the Australian source. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 6, 2022 Author Share Posted July 6, 2022 1 hour ago, JFranklin said: JB-Weld! I won't say that wasn't one of the first things to cross my mind!😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan95 Posted July 6, 2022 Share Posted July 6, 2022 This happened to me with a carburetor once. I ended up drilling both sides of the break for a roll pin and pressed the broken parts back together. Maybe that along with JB would work. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke01 Posted July 6, 2022 Share Posted July 6, 2022 Sadly I have come to realize that every vacuum tank lid is made of pot metal and the newest one out there is nearing one hundred years old. Pot metal was of poor quality then and age hasn't improved it. I dislike parting with the cash for an aluminum lid, but the only thing worse than paying too much for a part is not being able to buy it at any price. Zeke 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 Maybe JB-Weld the end of the pin next time? Or if enough material squeeze the ends of the pin to expand the metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradsan Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 (edited) I remember being faced with the same problem when I did mine . Was terrified of trying to peen the edges of the shaft over. Was also thinking about 'what if I have to take it apart again ' because that is how my brain works despite the reality of the situation which is the car has to go back together and be in use before you actually have to take it apart again! My 'tractor mechanic solution ' ( tractor mechanics being a hot topic on the AACA these days). was as follows: - instead of the brass shaft, use some stainless welding rod. I believe the shaft diameter is 1/8" - Cut the shaft about 3/16 " longer than the width needed. - buy the correct size of Circlip for shaft dia ( hope I'm using the right term here, you know , the ones with three raised internal bosses as shown. You can even get them in stainless if you wish! - get some thin cut off discs for your Dremel - use what ever combination of motorised apparatus you can find to create a redneck lathe ( presuming you don't have a real one) I clamped the Dremel in the vise and chucked the new shaft in the cordless drill - cut a groove in each end of the shaft to accept the circlip - assemble Hope that makes sense. I haven't tested it yet but the vacuum pump is on the shelf , hopefully ready to go! I also gave in and bought the repro lid because i didn't trust the threads for the banjo fitting in the old top. Brad Edited July 7, 2022 by bradsan (see edit history) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 22, 2022 Author Share Posted July 22, 2022 (edited) Postman brought me nice goody today... I gotta say, this looks like a very well made piece. The detail is sharp and the machining is done and the holes drilled. Much lighter than pot metal also! Cost is very reasonable for the part also once the exchange rate is taken into account. The company was easy to work with and shipped fast, even after my bank made a mess of things and suspended my payment over concern of scam action (due to their location outside of the US). I'll work on getting it installed this weekend... I also picked up some new springs for the vacuum tank valve mechanism also... I noticed the old ones had stretched an 1/8" and were a little irregular when relaxed. McMaster-Carr had some similar units in stainless so I picked up a pack for reassembly. Edited July 23, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 24, 2022 Author Share Posted July 24, 2022 (edited) I got the new top assembled and ready to go... I had to do a bit of very minor tweaking on the brass parts for smooth functioning but nothing crazy. It now snaps up smartly when the trip lever lightly contacts the base of the vent/vacuum arm. The opposite action is just as crisp. In the end I did end up peening over some brass rod to make the pins. No issues, I had it supported under the pin and things went fine. The rod is 1/16 dia, pretty small stuff to manipulate with my fat fingers! A while back I had cleaned the inner tank in the carb cleaner dip and tested the flapper valve. It was good to go, no issues other than some gunk removal. I also stripped and repainted the outer tank and mounting brackets at the same in an effort to do some detailing under the hood. A couple of tries to get the float positioning rod into it's hole but no other drama. The fuel inlet screen and all the plumbing hardware fit fine, no issues. Fitting the gasket and tightening the lid screws down in a star pattern compressed the gasket nicely. I also replaced the outlet petcock as the original had split around the packing collar. I filled the handle to round and drilled a hole to give it a more period look. Some fiddling to get it back on the firewall but I'm getting faster each time! All the plumbing connections were clocked to the incoming lines and attached. Completed unit was done and installed just before lunch. I can't really access the fuel inlet for unscrewing and adding gas because of it's proximity to the firewall. I'll have to find me a brass or copper funnel and solder it to a short piece of flared tubing for priming. I can't think of an easier way with how it sits, I'd rather not crank and crank to fill it. A quick project for a rainy afternoon. Edited July 24, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted July 24, 2022 Share Posted July 24, 2022 Very nice work, it looks great! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke01 Posted July 24, 2022 Share Posted July 24, 2022 Here is my vacuum tank funnel. Several years ago I had a unit rebuilt and this was sent along with the tank. I had to ask what it was. Zeke 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 25, 2022 Author Share Posted July 25, 2022 20 hours ago, zeke01 said: Here is my vacuum tank funnel. Several years ago I had a unit rebuilt and this was sent along with the tank. I had to ask what it was. Zeke I wish I had drilled out the hole and threaded my top for a plug. I thought about doing it but got busy with putting it back together and let it slide! I've never seen one of those funnels, very handy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 28, 2022 Author Share Posted July 28, 2022 I got antsy after dinner and decided to roll it over a bit and see if I could prime the vacuum tank. Success ensued and I got enough gas in there to set the float level. It took me an hour or so of taking the float in and out while manipulating it get the fuel level to the mark I had scribed inside the bowl. Unfortunately the sig coating on the float started to peel off, I found it had not adhered well at all and I could peel it off with little effort. As it happens I had to cut the float down some as it was catching on the inside of the float bowl. I think I'm going to make a new float out of balsa in the near future... Once the fuel level was set I was surprised at the speed it started with no choke! Plenty of power too, great throttle response. Though still in need of adjustment it's running way better than it ever did in the video the seller sent me. I was able to back it out of the garage under it's own power and drive it back in. Progress! Now for the bad news: clutch issues! This is the first time I have been able to sit in it with the engine running and depress the clutch. I knew right away when I got the car that the clutch was out of adjustment as it went nearly to the floor before doing anything, the Nash manual specifies about 1 1/2" of pedal free play. The clutch and the pedal itself each have their own adjustments. More concerning is the pulsing coming through the clutch pedal. Its there when just resting your foot on the pedal and grows worse as you depress it, culminating in the beginnings of metal on metal contact in a rhythmic fashion when fully depressed. The clutch itself does what it is supposed to do, it's not grabby or slipping. The only part that gets lubrication is the throw out bearing itself, cylinder oil (600w) is called for. I hear no typical noise that would indicate a bad throw out bearing. The owners manual doesn't go into depth about the clutch, just how to adjust it. I'll dig into it this weekend. In the mean time I have requested the Nash service bulletins relating to the clutch itself from the club library. Two steps forward, one back! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63RedBrier Posted July 28, 2022 Share Posted July 28, 2022 Overall, GREAT progress in a positive direction! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 29, 2022 Author Share Posted July 29, 2022 (edited) After work today I got the floor boards and access panels around the clutch removed. I spent a fair bit of time combing old AACA forum posts for info on these Borg and Beck clutch units and found some useful info to help understand how they work. Examination of mine looked pretty good, I didn't see any obvious disasters and no loose parts laying in the dust cover! The specific clutch type is an earlier one with the two large bolts that slide clockwise/counter-clockwise to adjust the clearance. It does have a clutch brake shown here with the red arrow, the throwout bearing is above the green arrow. Fairly quickly I was able to narrow the pulsing pedal down to the throwout bearing assembly. As suspected the clutch was out of adjustment some, the pedal was also not set right which in this unit sets the clearance between the throwout bearing and both actuating arm pins that contact and move it. The clutch is adjusted easily by loosening both 5/8" adjusting bolts, depressing the clutch pedal and knocking the head of either bolt clockwise until the clutch brake gap is 1/2". Not depressing the clutch pedal makes this a lot harder, follow the instructions on the clutch cover and you are golden! Once I had the gap set to 1/2" it was time to oil the throwout bearing with some bar oil I had, no cylinder oil on hand currently! The cover plate has a flip top oiler with a tube that runs down over the hole to deliver it where it's needed. After oiling I had to set the throwout actuating arms/pins to 1/16" clearance to the bearing. This is accomplished with the assembly on the right side of the clutch pedal bar. The big set screw allows you to rotate the shaft to wherever you need it, the smaller screw adjusts the same clearance but on a smaller scale, not as much travel. Once I had everything adjusted it was time to roll it over with the starter and feel if the pulsing had improved... It did improve somewhat and the metal on metal noise was gone. I noticed that the thrust bearing assembly was moving in and out slightly and having a camming effect on the clutch pedal actuating pins. I noticed it was tough to spin and not rotating smoothly on the transmission input shaft. Turns out there was a bunch of congealed grease in the shaft built up on mostly one side causing trouble. I ended up blowing brake cleaner through the oil filler hole and rotating the throwout housing over and over until it moved much better. After the brake cleaner dried I fed more bar oil into the hole and hit the starter to distribute it. I got it to the point where I can turn the engine over with my hand on the clutch pedal and not feel any pulsing. Good deal! As a final step I spent a few minutes scraping and wire brushing the transmission case, a clean transmission is a happy transmission... So things are looking good on the clutch front, and now that I have 30psi of oil pressure I have a rear main leak I need to address! I found this under the Nash last night after I had run it in the garage for a few minutes. The party never ends😁 Edited July 29, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 6 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted July 29, 2022 Share Posted July 29, 2022 Excellent pictures and description of adjusting these clutches! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Harper Posted July 29, 2022 Share Posted July 29, 2022 On 7/27/2022 at 10:36 PM, Lahti35 said: Two steps forward, one back! Not a step back at all.Your sorting the car so any problem you identify and correct is a step forward. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 31, 2022 Author Share Posted July 31, 2022 (edited) I spent an hour on the Nash tonight. Thought I'd start it up and try the clutch again. I had a bit of trouble priming the vacuum tank, I ran it dry last time I ran it and repeated rolling the engine over wasn't pulling anything into the tank. My supplies for my "vacuum tank primer" had arrived so I put it together and gave it a try. Just a short piece of fuel hose, a 1/4 flare fitting, and a hand pump. It worked good. I just hooked it to the vacuum fitting and pulled the fuel into the tank, I could hear the valve operating inside the tank when the float got high enough. No mess, no fuss! The car started easily and as soon as I put my foot on the clutch to back it out I could tell the issue had not been solved. I'll be pulling the transmission to get at it soon. The club librarian sent out the clutch info so that should be here this week. Hopefully once I'm in there the issue will jump right out at me. I can see where the throwout assembly has been spinning and wearing on the actuating arm pins, this doesn't seem right to me... I did take the Nash for a spin around the yard. Throttle response is fantastic, she wants to go! No sputtering, coughing or backfiring. The idle is a nice steady rhythm, no missing. Edited July 31, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted August 1, 2022 Author Share Posted August 1, 2022 I started the Nash up today after I spread the throwout bearing actuating arms a little wider hoping that was the culprit, no dice! I think the wear going on there is a byproduct of whatever is going on inside the clutch itself... Check out this video and watch that throwout carrier dance! There's a knock knock joke in here somewhere! I started removing the bits in the way of the transmission. The hand brake, speedo cable, driveshaft, clutch pedal, brake pedal, and the brake actuating bar that goes across the frame under the clutch. I found a few bits missing cotter pins on the brake assembly that could easily be a safety issue so that was good to catch and will be rectified. The transmission is now clear to be removed. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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