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59 Invicta “Lucille” Resurrection


Smartin
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I’ve started on the laundry list of things that need to be done on Lucille…first up is one of my many favorite jobs!  Torque tube/rear end removal.  Torque ball seal, pinion seal, and everything between.  New axle bearings were pressed on today…I was going to cheat and just replace the o-rings but I didn’t like the slop/noise when I ran them by hand.

 

Many more fun adventures to come!

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  • 2 weeks later...

The pinion nut was damaged enough to need replacement, and the only one I could find was an NOS one with the seal on eBay.  So that delayed the install for over a week.  
 

Today I got the whole setup put back together and ready for install….minus the brakes.  I’ll get this popped on before the rear goes in.

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It’s back in the car…and on to the next project.

 

Oil pan seal, rear main seal “patch,” and trans pan seal.  
 

Matt Martin has a nice blog on the rear main patch, and I followed that method of repacking the seal.  
 

Im currently letting the oil pan dry, and will reinstall everything tomorrow PM.

 

Oh yeah, as part of the rear end extravaganza, I went through the brake system and finished connecting the new lines.  I also replaced the front hoses, as they were toast.  We have a nice firm pedal now.  Also adjusted all shoes and anchor pins.

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Oil pan, inspection cover, and trans pan were dropped out on Sunday.  I performed the Matt Martin "rear main seal patch" ...hopefully it takes care of any seepage.  I blasted all 3 parts and cleaned/painted before reinstalling.  I recorded the process, but it will take me hours to get it edited and loaded.

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Edited by Smartin (see edit history)
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Hi Martin, great video again. Always enjoy watching what you do.

 

I’m thinking the factory used the studs as a locator for the metal pan and more importantly the pan gasket. Otherwise on the line it may be easy for the gasket to slip out of place under the pan and not be noticed until it was filled.

 

I was going to suggest that with the engine oil pan, a good way to help the install is to put in a small number of studs (perhaps four) to instantly locate the pan and the gasket first try without it slipping around. Then simply remove them once a small number of bolts are screwed in.

 

I make up the studs by cutting the heads off some bolts and removing the burrs with a file and a wire wheel. Adding a small taper on the end using a bench grinder will help the pan locate quickly.

 

I have been using locator studs for a while now and it makes the install process much simpler.

 

Just my two bobs worth.

Rodney 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

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  • 2 weeks later...

I haven’t done much lately…trying to keep the car in one piece since I need to get it to the exhaust guy when he calls with an open spot.  But I did manage to adjust the door glass.  Also replaced both vent window regulators.  The shafts wanted to walk out when you turned them…like unscrewing themselves out of the housing.  It turns out that both of them had fallen apart.  These plates were sitting in the bottoms of the doors.

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11 hours ago, Smartin said:

I haven’t done much lately…trying to keep the car in one piece since I need to get it to the exhaust guy when he calls with an open spot.  But I did manage to adjust the door glass.  Also replaced both vent window regulators.  The shafts wanted to walk out when you turned them…like unscrewing themselves out of the housing.  It turns out that both of them had fallen apart.  These plates were sitting in the bottoms of the doors.

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Probably broke some sort of clip on the other side and pushed the backs off when closed?

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26 minutes ago, Smartin said:

Those covers are peened onto the housings via the pot metal rivet/studs on the back side.  I put one back on, and peened it back in place...but I don't trust it.  That metal is so soft.

Just drill and tap for a machine screw.  Common problem on my 55's when the old lube gets stiff.  Clean, lube, assemble and you will never see it again!

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  • 3 weeks later...

New exhaust is on.  Sorry, no videos or pics of that.  It’s doesn’t sound like a tractor anymore, though!

 

I did a quick refresh of the engine compartment.  Basically stripped the accessories off the engine and painted it the right color.  Replaced the valve cover gaskets.  Blasted and hosed some paint on the air cleaner.

 

I did the best I could with the paint…turned out decent.

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While shuffling cars around the other day (it has become quite an event due to the qty I have to move), I noticed the amp gauge reading either 0 or slightly discharging.  I kicked the throttle up and it didn't move a stitch.  I probed the battery while it was running, and it read 12.2v.  Revving the engine did nothing.  So I pulled the generator and took it to Eljay (local rebuilder who has been doing it for 800 years). 

 

While that is being sorted, I took care of the fuel sending unit situation.  It now has a working fuel gauge. 

 

The only thing left is to pop the generator back in and clean up the car a bit.  Then it's ready for the drive home!

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  • 2 weeks later...

The generator armature was toast...got it rebuilt and installed.  Had a couple charging gremlins to work out...waiting on a new VR fuse.

 

We decided to add a couple loose ends to the list.  I reinstalled the rear lower seat cover due to being installed a bit wonky the first time. 

 

I had a wild thought about doing some stainless polishing, and figured I would try to do it while it was still installed on the car.  It would take me the better part of a week just to remove and reinstall all of it...and there is a good chance some of the fasteners aren't even accessible unless the car is significantly disassembled.  So I bought some cotton polishing wheels that mount on an angle grinder and tested out a spot.  It would likely be fine, but the stainless on this car has been 100% sanded on with a DA sander, and those scratches will not come out with a polishing wheel.  So, bummer there, but we are moving forward with the last remaining little bits. 

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Edited by Smartin (see edit history)
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What's the situation with the RR door panel?  Is the backing wrinkled due to previous moisture?  Is the vinyl in decent shape (not too dry/hard)?  I guess what i'm asking is whether replacing the backer board and reinstalling the cover is an option.  Seems a shame given how nice the rest of the car is...

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