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Me and My 1956 Buick Roadmaster 4 Door Sedan Model 72


usnavystgc

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Just my 2cents worth on your front brake drums. I always knock the heads off of the rivets so I can separate the hub from the drum. Then turning the drums and doing brake jobs are easy peasy. Or at least easier than with everything being one unit. You can always put the “tinnermans” on If you so desire. 

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56 minutes ago, Rusty Heaps said:

Just my 2cents worth on your front brake drums. I always knock the heads off of the rivets so I can separate the hub from the drum. Then turning the drums and doing brake jobs are easy peasy. Or at least easier than with everything being one unit. You can always put the “tinnermans” on If you so desire. 

Considering the scarcity of ball bearing assemblies for our cars this is probably a good idea. The alignment pin would still be useable for hub /drum orientation as that screws on.  

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1 hour ago, dibarlaw said:

Friends we met at the BCA meet in Portland back in 2014.

Wow, so interesting.  That's the 4 door hardtop version.  They really look so much better than the 4 door post but, we deal with the cards we are dealt.  This pic gives me hope that someday my car will be as nice as that one.  Thanks for posting that.  I think this color was only offered from June to Dec of 1956.  I don't see it in the color swaths for 57 and it was considered a "spring" color for 56.  I don't know the exact month the spring colors came out but I'm guessing it was around June.  I'm def keeping this color scheme for this car.  At first I didn't like it but, it does grow on you and it has def grown on me.  I took a few minutes to buff out a good area of the paint and I think it looks so cool.

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Edited by usnavystgc (see edit history)
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My search for an engine and tranny for this car has not been fruitful yet but, I have lots of time to look since she is nowhere near ready for the engine transplant.  I'm being picky too, there are lots of 264's out there but most are manual transmission flywheels.  What I really want is a 56 322 with a 56 dyna.  I believe I have to have a 56 dyna since the prop shaft is fine spline on a 56 (does anyone know if that's true or are the front splines the same for 54/55?).  There are also a lot of short blocks out there but that just complicates the process.  During my search, a lot of realizations come my way like, its not just the motor and tranny, its power steering pump, generator, ac compressor, etc etc.  then you have the flywheel differences and a host of other issues.  I really don't want to use Beaut's engine and tranny cuz she's a pretty fine car too.

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3 hours ago, usnavystgc said:

I believe I have to have a 56 dyna since the prop shaft is fine spline on a 56 (does anyone know if that's true or are the front splines the same for 54/55?)

The prop shaft splines are different, but just change the universal joint in the torque ball.  Just be sure the length is the same.  But hold out for a 56 tranny if possible.  I have a 56 tranny in a parts car but that might be impossible.:P.

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  • 3 weeks later...

In my effort to restore this car to show condition, I decided to try my hand at nickel plating. Here are some pics of the process and some of the results.

It is tougher than I thought but I'm getting better at it.

If you zoom in on the 3rd pic you can see the bracket was made in USA by Delco Remy. I thought that was kind of cool.

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Edited by usnavystgc (see edit history)
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On 3/8/2022 at 10:31 AM, usnavystgc said:

My search for an engine and tranny for this car has not been fruitful yet but, I have lots of time to look since she is nowhere near ready for the engine transplant.  I'm being picky too, there are lots of 264's out there but most are manual transmission flywheels.  What I really want is a 56 322 with a 56 dyna.  I believe I have to have a 56 dyna since the prop shaft is fine spline on a 56 (does anyone know if that's true or are the front splines the same for 54/55?).  There are also a lot of short blocks out there but that just complicates the process.  During my search, a lot of realizations come my way like, its not just the motor and tranny, its power steering pump, generator, ac compressor, etc etc.  then you have the flywheel differences and a host of other issues.  I really don't want to use Beaut's engine and tranny cuz she's a pretty fine car too.

If Ur interested I have almost all A/C parts from part out of 56 Rdee. My friend has a 56 eng trans in his 55 I think he wants to sell and correct it to 55. I can check if your interested, but Fastenal has a East West 'zone' line that makes shipping harder if it has to cross. Low sales =lower production for auto makers in 1956 vs 1955. Hence makes 56 parts harder 2 find.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, mission creep continues to rear its ugly head on this car.  I got the lower control arms back from the powder coater and I was able to install the pass side but, you can't put a crappy looking sway bar back on powder coated control arms can you???  So I removed the sway bar and I'm currently in the process of sanding and painting it.  I am also replacing the shocks and all rubber bushings associated with the lower control arms and sway bar.  

 

Once I get all of those complete, its off to front brakes and wheel bearings.  From there, I'm gonna pull this one out of the garage and begin welding the floorboards on Beaut (56 Super).

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20 hours ago, lancemb said:

Perhaps I missed an official statement, but have you decided to fix and keep both cars now?

You didn't miss anything. 

 

That is a very complicated question that I don't have an answer for.  Lol.  For now, I am driving Beaut and restoring the Roadie.  I'm also doing some repairs to Beaut that can either be transferred over to the Roadie or repairs that will help me gain skills that will assist in the restoration of the Roadie.  i have been looking for an engine and tranny for the Roadie but, I haven't had any luck so the most likely scenario is, Beaut will become an engine/tranny donor for the Roadie but, that transplant will be one of the last things I do.  

 

I toy around with all kinds of ideas, one of them being to transplant a 455 into Beaut once she donates her engine and tranny to the Roadie.  Who knows what will become of Beaut.  Right now my primary focus is a full restoration of the Roadie while keeping Beaut on the road (because I like to drive her).  

 

That's the long answer, the short answer is, IDK.  :)

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The work continues, I managed to get the sway bar painted last night.  All brackets are painted and she's ready to be reinstalled.  

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I feel like progress is real slow on this car.  I'm no longer working from home so, I can't just go to the garage one minute after knock off.  The drive wears on me but, I will get use to it again.  Thankfully, I still have a job. 

 

I'm finding restoration much more involved than simply getting a car running and driving.  Every little detail has to be taken into account on a restoration but, I've always wanted to restore a car and I'm not getting any younger.  This is my chance so, no time to complain.  

Edited by usnavystgc (see edit history)
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I began installing the driver's side lower control arm yesterday and ran into a problem.  When I get within 3/4 of an inch of lining up the outer bolt hole, the car begins to lift and will not compress the spring any further.  I'm thinking this is because there is no engine or tranny to provide the proper weight resistance to compress the spring enough to line up the bolt.  The crazy thing is, the passenger side went right in.  The hole I'm trying to line up is pictured below (lower right hand side of the second pic).  

 

My thoughts are to put all four tires in the engine compartment in the hope that will provide enough weight to compress the spring.  That's the only idea I have.  If anyone has another idea, please share it.

 

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On 4/20/2022 at 12:24 PM, usnavystgc said:

Well, I'm still having problems getting the dirt seals on and everything lined up.  I managed to ruin the two new dirt seals I had so I had to order more (ordered 4 this time) so, all is at a standstill.  Sigh

Yeah, those things are easy to bugger up. The cheap Chinese rubber is lousy. 

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3 hours ago, Rusty Heaps said:
On 4/20/2022 at 11:24 AM, usnavystgc said:

Well, I'm still having problems getting the dirt seals on and everything lined up.  I managed to ruin the two new dirt seals I had so I had to order more (ordered 4 this time) so, all is at a standstill.  Sigh

Yeah, those things are easy to bugger up. The cheap Chinese rubber is lousy. 

And if and when you get them installed the rubber will soon swell and become an ineffective nasty mess!

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That's what I should have done Willie but, I'm a glutton for punishment.  

 

On a good note, I did receive the dust seals and I was able to get everything lined up and got them in.  So now, both lower control arms are installed.  What a relief.  Now I just have one front shock to install, the sway bar and the front brakes.  Things should move along quicker now.  During my downtime, I managed to nickel plate a bunch of hardware.  

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Edited by usnavystgc (see edit history)
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3 hours ago, usnavystgc said:

During my downtime, I managed to nickel plate a bunch of hardware.  

Wow - that stuff looks nice!  Have you shared any details of your plating setup?  A couple of pics and description would be appreciated.  ;)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, the work continues on this car.  I have removed the brake booster/master cylinder assy. and I'm in the process of cleaning it up and refurbishing it.  During the process, I noticed something interesting.  The power booster is made by Kelsey Hayes Wheel Co.  

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The booster on Beaut was made by Delco Moraine.  Both appear to be identical.  Beaut was an early 56 where as this car is a late model 56.  It makes one wonder if all late models had the Kelsey Hayes version or did they just use whatever they had on the shelf.  I'm guessing they just used what was available.  Nevertheless, there were two manufacturers of the brake booster for the 56 model (not sure about other years but, I found this interesting).  

 

During the refurbishment, a question came to my mind.  Since I'm trying to make this a show car to be judged someday, can I paint the brake booster or do I need to have it zinc chromate plated?  The booster is in exceptional condition but, much of the zinc chromate is worn off.  I want it to be protected from rust but, I would prefer not to have to have it zinc plated.  

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The vacuum seal arrived yesterday and here's the final assembled brake booster/master cylinder assy.  The internals on this one were in better shape than Beauts and since this is my second go around, it was easier.  The rebuild cost about $35 including paint.  Since all the internal parts are in a sealed environment, they are mostly reusable.  Clean up of rust, dirt and grease was the major part of the rebuild, then replacement of internal seals.  I made my own gaskets and ordered all seals from either the Oring Store LLC or Orings and more.  Shipping cost more than the seals.  There's 3 types of seals in these, 1 leather seal (main power piston), 3 U cup seals and several O rings.  One thing I learned is, you can save money by buying the seals yourself rather than buying a rebuild kit. It's a little more work but, I'm cheap so, its worth it to me.  

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Since i'm now a certified expert on this rebuild :) , I would be glad to assist anyone attempting to tackle this.  The manual is very detailed regarding the assembly but, some of the language is confusing and it requires a lot of rereading and referencing the diagrams to familiarize yourself with the parts nomenclature.  The diagrams are very detailed but, you sometimes have to look close to get the detail you need.  There is no exploded view in the manual but, one is likely available in a parts diagram somewhere.  

Edited by usnavystgc (see edit history)
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