Skolfield Posted December 12, 2021 Share Posted December 12, 2021 My 1953 Buick special wont crank fast enough with a 6 volt battery. I had it running with a 12 volt battery but I can't use that one permanently without adding resistors. its not the starter or solenoid both are refurbished. Thanks for any help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted December 12, 2021 Share Posted December 12, 2021 What gage wire are your battery cables? 0 or 00 are good for 6v system (+) cables, and I think most all GM vehicles back then were using braided flat cable ground straps from battery (-) to the car's frame or engine block. Using modern, smaller gage 12v battery cables on 6 or 8 volt systems can cause problems like you're having. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skolfield Posted December 12, 2021 Author Share Posted December 12, 2021 I am using 00 gauge battery cables on both positive and negative terminals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37_Roadmaster_C Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 Ok, a couple of questions... First, 6 volt cars DO NOT crank fast. If you are expecting it to crank like a more modern car, it will not! A slow crank is just fine if the engine is tuned properly. It will start, it just seems wrong until you get used to it. Now with that said, check ALL connections. They need to be clean, rust free and tight! Another thing you might try is to add a ground cable between the bolt that the battery grounds to and the starter or engine block. Some have had trouble with the engine ground without a bonding cable. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 Clean everything like Robin suggested check every ground surface and cable. I am not sure how this grounds, I would suspect a weaved cable to the block or frame then does the starter ground with a short cable to the frame or block. I personally have fought problems with starting systems and lost sight of a good grounding system. 12 volt or 6 volt systems all need a sound ground this will affect cranking and possibly give you a voltage drop for the ignition. I just had a cable issue at work, the cables looked good ohm checked out good but the unit would crank slow intermittently. I added jumper cables from the battery to the starter and found the problem. If possible try this if they will fit, home run jumper cables from battery to starter fully charged battery and see how it cranks. You need the larger cables that Robin suggested the lower voltage needs larger cables. I would check voltage at the coil before and while cranking possibly give the points a file treatment if needed. I checked the service manual and did not see a spec for cranking speed, I would think its in a spec that I have not found. Other things that you could check are coil and condenser and ground at the distributor and check your plugs. Hows the floor repair coming along these can be time consuming, like to see how the braces are working out. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 I would check the action of the breaker plate in the distributor to be sure it wasn't sticking and giving you too much advance on start up. Just push against the condenser with your finger to rotate it. Release and it should snap right back. If it doesn't there is a cork lubrication pad that wicks oil from the lubrication pipe. You could try feeding some fresh oil but taking the plate out for lube would be better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete O Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 I had the same problem of slow cranking, particularly when the engine was hot. After a lot of trial and error, I found that the starter itself was binding. The bushings were too tight on the armature shaft. I could not spin the armature by hand. Took it apart and reamed the bushings and that fixed it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skolfield Posted March 27, 2022 Author Share Posted March 27, 2022 Tried everything mentioned in this thread. Car still cranks slow unless spark plugs are out. The generator is not hooked up to the car. didn't think it would make a difference but I am running out of ideas. Is the generator necessary for starting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 On 12/12/2021 at 12:21 PM, Skolfield said: its not the starter or solenoid both are refurbished. We have all had rebuilt/refurbished/new parts that were worse than the parts they replaced. Try a different starter. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southpaw Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 Eliminate advanced ignition by removing coil hi voltage wire from center of distributor and grounding to block. If it cranks correctly now your timing is too advanced. No change, you're left with weak battery or weak starter. Remember these cars started just fine back in the day. There is a problem you have not found YET. Triple check your grounds. With auto electrical systems it's always the ground. As mentioned above they did not crank fast. Get busy spring is almost here. Best of luck, Jim 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted March 28, 2022 Share Posted March 28, 2022 7 hours ago, Skolfield said: Tried everything mentioned in this thread. Car still cranks slow unless spark plugs are out. The generator is not hooked up to the car. didn't think it would make a difference but I am running out of ideas. Is the generator necessary for starting? no it isn't/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted March 28, 2022 Share Posted March 28, 2022 If I was stuck and not finding a problem I would pull the pin from the solenoid on the arm that pulls the Bendix in. That way the engine won't crank but you have a load on the starting circuit. Then us a VOM to measure for voltage drop across each node and terminal starting between the battery post and battery clamp and work your way through the whole system. Look for zero voltage drop at each connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skolfield Posted April 2, 2022 Author Share Posted April 2, 2022 The starter is getting 5.6 volts when cranking. Is it possible the previous owner put an armature in designed for a 12v starter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 If I understand what you're saying, there's about a 1 Volt drop between the battery and the starter (assuming a full charge battery voltage of 6.6 V). If so, that seems reasonable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 I would Pull the starter out and have it checked out or find another one for testing. I would think it is possible it has a 12volt field winding or armature. I have an electric shop close by they never ask if it is 12 volt or 6 volt, I bring it up when dropping things off for repair. Just to be sure I don't get the wrong parts installed. One thing you could try if you have the cables is hook short cables direct to the stater and use a starter bumper. This will bypass everything, if it cranks over like it should start back tracking Good luck Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skolfield Posted April 23, 2022 Author Share Posted April 23, 2022 At this point I am fairly certain that the engine is partially seized. I am getting oil pressure but there is sludge in the valve cover. Might try putting some marvel mystery oil in the crank case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted April 26, 2022 Share Posted April 26, 2022 On 4/3/2022 at 8:09 PM, EmTee said: If I understand what you're saying, there's about a 1 Volt drop between the battery and the starter (assuming a full charge battery voltage of 6.6 V). If so, that seems reasonable. I would go back and check/change the cables to larger wire. Possibly 0000/ 4. One volt drop seems like a lot. Could be a bad battery. Have you had the battery load tested? If so and you change to larger cables, you can solder the ends which will give you a better connection between the cables and the terminals where there could be a voltage drop. Just my thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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