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FOR SALE 1937-41


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FOR SALE 1937 BUICK Model 41.       $5,000

1937 Buick Special model 41.  Selling because of recent accident damage. All noted items below are presently on the car. We have taken this car on 3 over 3000-mile round trips without a breakdown.  113,308 Original miles. Good running engine. All lights still work. New clutch and pressure plate with transmission rebuilt with new 2nd speed gear, main gear, sliding sleeve and detent springs prior to going back on the road in 2012 after a "Driver Restoration". Overall black enamel paint job from the 1970s original interior and headliner. Seats have nice tan fabric covering over original. Re-chromed bumpers/bumperettes, hood louvers restored.       DSCF8789.JPG.d37bf00de751fb12192f79f878bba5d7.JPG  

    Taken 15 minutes and 8 miles before the accident. 

           Rebuilt items - Starter, generator, fuel pump, carb (Marvel BD-1), all fuel lines and fuel tank re-done. Deluxe Buick heater defroster unit. New brake lines, hoses, master and wheel cylinders, front end components. Rebuild rear springs. New wiring harness installed in 2012. Rebuilt dash unit and gages, light switch. Rebuilt radio, wiper motor. Exhaust system, Water pump, cleaned engine water passages, re-cored radiator. No overheating in the last 8 years. Newly installed rear shocks and links last November. Many more items I personally restored not mentioned. Damage as shown in photos.

20210801_182357.jpg.fdb848dc0c2035374f205a00273deee5.jpg    20210801_184048.jpg.c873069f18ce6ac85ec801a02a7d8edc.jpg 


 The frame looks to be not affected. Crushed rear left door and left rear fender, torn inner quarter panel, B pillar/strike post damage. Passenger side strike post is slightly kinked from front seat movement but doors are fine. Front driver's door damage. Dent in left front fender (repairable). The deck lid has slight damage in the lower right corner. How it happened is anyone's guess? Rear axle was bent and left rear wheel. Recast steering wheel is bent. The bumpers are as new. (3) 6.50 X 16 Bias ply WW tires with 11,000 miles.


$5,000 OBO

 Larry DiBarry 717-263-3804









Edited by dibarlaw
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  • dibarlaw changed the title to FOR SALE 1937-41

The car is presently accessible in front of my garage. I was able to pull the left rear door and C pillar a bit to be able to get the spare on. It has been well covered. 1621907408_1937and1925Oct21.JPG.ff1d778129dc753eab0efa003b885df9.JPG

I was hoping to get it sold before winter but the other fellows insurance only recently came up with a settelment. Over 3 months! 

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Lucy is kinda hard to look at.


Do you have a replacement plan yet or do you need do more mourning?


A "guy" in Champlin Minnesota has a 39-66C nearly finished restoration,  needs some finishing touches.


You might look good in it!   That would be a fun car to own and drive.   

I've learned it's cheaper to buy them than restore them.  The Restorer(THE GUY PAYING THE BILLS) only gets a fraction of the money sunk into them.

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Hey... I resemble that remark!

"$tay away from people who think they know what you can afford" Your catch phrase says it all. Recieving roughly less than 1/2 of what I had in the car for a settlement.

 I have others now looking for a replacement for me. First the 1938-61 that EmTee bought from Matt Hinson. Then a 1937-61 near Philadelphia. And the very nice Blue 1937-61 in MN. My friend with a 1941-47 has given me leads at least once a week since the accident in August. One was the gold 1941-61? showing up recently in the BCA Bugle. On the other end of the spectrum there are those who are pushing me to get a Brass Car. Figuring that my settlement is burning a hole in my pocket. A nice Brass Buick to tour with the HCCA. What I recieved for a settlement would be a downpayment as far as the entrance fee. Car price $$ then trailer $ then tow vehicle $$$. And still no place to store them all. 

 The great thing about my 37 was that no trailer or tow vehicle was needed!

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Larry;  Fully agree with your thoughts you can drive your 30's pre war cars and you must own a truck and trailer to own a brass era car.  Though when your pre '16 is percolating, the sun is shining and you are out with your mates the difficulties fade away.  Life is short, I know you want to, join us, get an HCCA car.  I would recommend seeking a 1914-1915 Ford or one of the competitors such as the 25 series Buick, likely less expensive than a nice Century.  You live in Pa., there must be many opportunities to drive to events without a truck and trailer, Hershey Hangover?


Sorry for your accident,  Gary

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Just a little fix-her-upper,  a bit of elbow grease, a good washing and some car wax, shampoo the interior, pump up the tires,  change the oil,  a bit of fuel additive in the tank(after you re-install it).....


....and you're off to SEMA.


Don't let the challenge deter you!

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