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PB Engine Question


Canadian PB Kid
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I recently got my engine back from the fellow who did the babbitt work on my rods, I noticed on the left side of the engine these two brass screws and was wondering what their purpose was. Oil galleries access? I don't see them shown in either the instruction manual or the parts book.

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated,

 

Dave

 

STAY SAFE! 

spare eng L marked screws .jpg

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I believe they plug the holes the factory needed when they drilled the oil passages from the main oil gallery to the front and rear main bearings. The middle one, used for the oil filter (and probably oil pressure gauge based on the dual outlet fitting) was used to drill the oil passage to the middle main bearing.

 

I am pretty sure they have been there since the day the engine was manufactured, probably covered with grime and corrosion so you did not notice them. There is no serviceable parts behind them so there is no need for them to be mentioned in the Instruction Book.

 

Edit: Look in section 9-B of the 1928-33 Plymouth Master Parts List, there are a number of “Plug (oil hole)” listings for various engines. I don’t see the PB there but the PA is and that is a very similar block. For the PA one is shown as part 103884. If you look in the Standard Parts book that turns out to be a “1⁄4-18x1⁄2 steel slotted headless pipe plug”. When I look up the equivalent for my PD I see that it is a malleable iron pipe plug. So I guess the originals were steel or iron which would age the same as the block and may become unnoticeable. Perhaps the rebuilder needed to have access (re-drill oil feed holes in newly poured bearings? or just to assure they got all the oil passages cleaned out?) and removed the originals then replaced them with the brass you now have. Once painted, they will look the same as the originals.

Edited by ply33 (see edit history)
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I removed that plug and it was like 4 inches long.it goes over to the cam shaft, i was told the long stemed plug was aftermarket to improve oil pressure loss to main and rod bearings due to cam bearing wear. the long plug was only at the rear on my engine. ( thexton oil pressure regulator) when looking at at my spare engine block i don't see any bearing in the cam bore.

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Thanks to all who chimed in, Yes I agree it would be tough to do a deep cleaning without removing all three plugs, I removed the large plug on the rear of the block and didn't see the long oil pressure rod, interesting device. I've looked in the parts book and saw all the plugs, is it a separate parts book that has all the hardware descriptions?

 

Another question, On the left side of the block are letters stamped at the top of each cylinder, Number one has a "C" and the rest are "B's"... any thoughts on what these indicate?  

 

Thanking in advance,

 

Dave

 

STAY SAFE!

spare eng left side marked.jpg

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1 hour ago, Canadian PB Kid said:

Thanks to all who chimed in, Yes I agree it would be tough to do a deep cleaning without removing all three plugs, I removed the large plug on the rear of the block and didn't see the long oil pressure rod, interesting device. I've looked in the parts book and saw all the plugs, is it a separate parts book that has all the hardware descriptions?

 

Another question, On the left side of the block are letters stamped at the top of each cylinder, Number one has a "C" and the rest are "B's"... any thoughts on what these indicate?  

 

Thanking in advance,

 

Dave

 

STAY SAFE!

spare eng left side marked.jpg

I believe those are inspection stamps regarding the size of the cylinder bore.

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11 hours ago, Canadian PB Kid said:

Is there a impeller available for the PA-PB water pumps? Would it be a shaft and impeller as the parts books list?

 

TIA

 

Dave

 

STAY SAFE!

water pump woes.jpg

Try Flying Dutchman water pump service.....

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On 12/7/2021 at 2:12 PM, ArticiferTom said:

 Is pinned on as separate piece. 

20160622_212824.jpg.fdb103881e636976b9b8a1c3e64f45dd.jpg

It appears mine may be missing some bushings and or shims between the impeller and the housing?... are they certain thickness? 

 

It appears that the missing shims and or bushings might be the reason that the impeller moved along and knocked off the blades? 

 

TIA

 

Dave

 

STAY SAFE!

water pump block side bush.jpg

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2 hours ago, Canadian PB Kid said:

It appears mine may be missing some bushings and or shims between the impeller and the housing?... are they certain thickness? 

 

It appears that the missing shims and or bushings might be the reason that the impeller moved along and knocked off the blades? 

 

TIA

 

Dave

 

STAY SAFE!

 

In the similar 1933 and up water pumps the end play is set by how far the pulley is pressed on to the other end of the shaft. The pulley, once pressed to the correct location, is drilled and pinned to lock it in place. Not sure when, but sometime after 1933 they pressed on a hub rather than a pulley and then the pulley bolted on the hub. But in that case the end play was set by how far the hub was pressed on the shaft.

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19 hours ago, ply33 said:

In the similar 1933 and up water pumps the end play is set by how far the pulley is pressed on to the other end of the shaft. The pulley, once pressed to the correct location, is drilled and pinned to lock it in place. Not sure when, but sometime after 1933 they pressed on a hub rather than a pulley and then the pulley bolted on the hub. But in that case the end play was set by how far the hub was pressed on the shaft.

Yes mine had a pin locking the pulley in place, I see a water pump thrust washer (Part # 375701) listed in the parts book and shown in articiferTom picture but mine had no evidence of it.

 

would anyone happen to have the thickness of this washer? I presume it's made of brass??

 

TIA

 

Dave

 

STAY SAFE!

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I've moved around to the other side of the block and was wondering if this inserted ring is the one that is referred to in the parts book as a "ferrule" part # 391674 in section 9-C....Quantity four. 

 

There was only one when I took it apart and I was wondering if I need to make up three more or are they only required when using the original style copper gaskets?

 

TIA

 

Dave

 

STAY SAFE!

engine manifold ferrule m.jpg

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Yes those are ferrules . However I believe them to go on exhaust four  ports . It is more protection from heat and flame on any gasket . I used with my Remflex graphite gasket   install last year . When making allowed for expansion both directions . Prior to 30's these engine used individual copper o-rings in each port . Then went to gaskets . Make sure head is flat . Manifolds when assembled, are parallel and true . 

  My Parts book list the water pump piece as a thrust washer .  Most likely was brass or fiber . 

Edited by ArticiferTom
punc. (see edit history)
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On 12/12/2021 at 2:18 PM, ArticiferTom said:

Yes those are ferrules . However I believe them to go on exhaust four  ports . It is more protection from heat and flame on any gasket . I used with my Remflex graphite gasket   install last year . When making allowed for expansion both directions . Prior to 30's these engine used individual copper o-rings in each port . Then went to gaskets . Make sure head is flat . Manifolds when assembled, are parallel and true . 

  My Parts book list the water pump piece as a thrust washer .  Most likely was brass or fiber . 

From what I can put together it appears that the ferrules and copper ringed gaskets were used on the outer four ports and the center two ports have the single gasket, Is this the better way to go or is the single gasket better? 

 

TIA

 

Dave

 

STAY SAFE!

engine manifold face with both gasket.jpg

engine manifold face with newstyle gasket.jpg

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I like the Remflex with it's 50 percent compression and no need to retorque , Rem # 6034 and for exhaust manifold to pipe Rem#8068  . You will still need the one between intake and exhaust , not available from them but is on line . I used ferrules on exhaust ports to , maintain alignment during install and extra protection to gasket .

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