cutdown Posted November 15, 2021 Share Posted November 15, 2021 Its time I got the rear brakes working on this dodge, so I discovered today I need the special puller for the hub. Can any one out there help me get one really quickly while I am waiting for my engine parts to arrive. many thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted November 15, 2021 Share Posted November 15, 2021 Hi Dereck, If your car is early (pre 1923) (rear brakes only) then you don’t need a puller. I will send some information on this in a few minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted November 15, 2021 Share Posted November 15, 2021 Okay Your cars should have a square drive floating axle. The holding studs for the drum wheel and hub look like this. The square is pulled into the wooden spokes by the nut on the left hand end tightening on the inside face of the drum. The hub cover sits over the stud and nuts hold it on. A pin holds the axle in the hub cover and it is this that drives the car. Remove the hub cap. Remove the pin through the axle. Remove the hub cover. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted November 15, 2021 Share Posted November 15, 2021 You will then see a threaded locking collar. With a clamping bolt. This collar is left hand thread for the right hand side and right hand thread for the left hand side as if facing forward. you can also clearly see the hole for the pin. Undo the clamping bolt (normal thread both sides) Then undo the collar. The collar holds the wheel bearings. Remove the collar, the outer bearing and then remove the wheel. The brake drum will come with it. Any questions? 😊 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted November 15, 2021 Share Posted November 15, 2021 It is a bit of a pain to reinstall (with or without the drive plate installed), but you can leave the pin in the flange drive plate, that goes through the axle, in place and pull the plate and axle at the same time. The other end is also square. If that pin is missing, you should replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutdown Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 (edited) Hi Mark. Something looks different here. I removed the hub cap, removed the split pin and undid the large nut. it looks like a tapered rear axle with a keyway. I will need to check again tomorrow, as the car is around in my Daughters garage. I don't remember seeing nuts around the outside of the hub cap, holding the spokes etc together, but I had better check again. Thanks for the reply. I will get back to you. Edited November 17, 2021 by cutdown spelling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted November 16, 2021 Share Posted November 16, 2021 If you have a nut with a split pin you have a tapered axle which is later than 1924 so your car is a real conundrum. However it would explain the different sized wheels you have fitted (if I remember correctly) It does seem that your car is made up of all sorts from a number of years. So yes, a puller will be required. Please ignore the photos and advice above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22touring Posted November 16, 2021 Share Posted November 16, 2021 If your wheels are like mine (late '22), then the center of the hub is threaded 2-7/16" x 16 TPI. You might want to check into purchasing one of George McMurtry's* custom-made hub pullers (however, I haven't spoken to George for a number of years, so it is possible that he is no longer making them; I'm not sure). He makes hub pullers for many other makes, too. I am very happy with George's hub puller. He cuts it out of a single block of high-strength steel, it is really a work of art, and my stuck hubs came off easily with it. It also incorporates a couple of really nice features to make it easier to use: the large bolt is to expand the puller to make it easier to install, and the small bolt is to clamp it down tight on the hub's threads before pulling. It is definitely the pièce de résistance of my puller collection! *George McMurtry, P.O. Box 112, Bayard, Nebraska 69334; (308) 586-1930. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutdown Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 Thanks 22 touring. That's a pretty decent puller. Hopefully there is one in NZ i can buy or borrow or make. Would it necessarily follow, that my car is a 1923 model. The chassis number I got with the car is from may 23 but wasn't attached to the car. As far as Myers dodge parts know, the engine is from an earlier car because it has an 84 link generator chain. We do have the facilities and technical knowhow to make that puller D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted December 8, 2021 Share Posted December 8, 2021 Another option is a hub knocker. It is a capped nut that screws down and seats on the end of the axle. The wheel you are removing is left on the ground, the other side is jacked up. Then use a good size sedge hammer to knock the axle out of the hub. They come in different sizes, but here is a sample; https://www.ebay.com/itm/254207061844?nma=true&si=ynyJXmxt1eGr9ZSQosQ7eW2WH9w%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 or you could loosen the nut and drive around the block a few times, sometimes that will work too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraser M Posted December 11, 2021 Share Posted December 11, 2021 Hi Dereck, where abouts are you in New Zealand? I have a couple of pullers that might do the job, I will check them out tomorrow. Cheers from Fraser 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutdown Posted December 12, 2021 Author Share Posted December 12, 2021 (edited) Hi Frazer. I'm in Kerikeri. 2-7/16" x 16 TPI internal thread. It would be neat to be able to get the use of one as its going to be a bit of effort to make one. I have the steal ready and the use of a lathe and expertise to do the job. My own lathe hasn't got the gears to do the thread [ nor do I have the knowledge of how to do it ] but the "Men's Shed" in KK has one [ and the people who know how to do it ]. I ordered my engine bits from Myers before I realized I needed the puller. Bits arrived quite quickly as well. Dereck ps I have calculated that the bore id of the thread should be about 2.356 inches to 2.37 inches Edited December 13, 2021 by cutdown extra info (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraser M Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 Hi Dereck, I am in Invercargill, I found one puller but unfortunatly it measures 2 3/4" it seems you are able to get one made in your town, but if you get stuck I could make one. Cheers Fraser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutdown Posted December 15, 2021 Author Share Posted December 15, 2021 Thanks Frazer. I have the steel in my myford lathe, boring close to what is required before transferring it to the lathe at the men's shed. I had trouble working out the inner diameter but finally got that sorted. If I f it up I will certainly get in touch.So far all is looking well. The stud i thought was pulling out turned out to be the nut stripping so have ordered a full set of nut from Steelmasters in Whangarei. So far, of the 2 engines I have, one of the crank shafts is probably not cracked. [ i t rings like a bell whereas the other has a dull thunk to it ] All the best down there. I dont get down there very often. Last 2 times were on my commando the first time and at the pipe band contest a couple of years ago. Dereck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted December 15, 2021 Share Posted December 15, 2021 It may be too late for this suggestion. If you have not finished the inside diameter leave about .025 for the guy to clean up before threading it. That way the hole or minor diameter will be absolutely concentric to the threads. He can indicate it close but not have to worry with the last thousandth. As a puller it really doesn't have to be concentric to the outside. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutdown Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 Yes, I am leaving quite a bit so that we don't have to be exactly precise about mounting it in the lathe. The only thing that concerns me is getting the thread the right fit on the axle as we cant pick the diff up and wind it on the lathe. But that would be the reason why those with splits in them are made. Not so precise but clamping them tight makes up for [ wear even ] size difference. Thanks for the suggestion though. Good thinking. You have earned a "Hershey Bar". 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 (edited) Make a threaded plug from a good hubcap to check the thread. That way you will have something to look for if anyone else wants to make one. The split does not contract the puller much, just snug it. Thanks for the prize, I ate my share of them when I was in the plant. I can see the building from the house. Edited December 16, 2021 by nearchoclatetown (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutdown Posted March 1, 2022 Author Share Posted March 1, 2022 I managed to borrow Colin's hub puller and he gave me a front hub to us as gauge when making my own. many thanks for all the offers. I fitted the puller to the r/rear hub and as i tightened the bolt the hub came loose. I proved that new woven linings had been fitted to both foot and hand brakes. The left rear would not budge with about five belts from a single handed sledge hammer so I decided to leave it alone. The adjustments just need to be fine tuned and a lot of bedding in to be done before it goes for it vin inspection. The r/rear hub had obviously been moving as the 1/4 inch key had worn andf been wobbling back and forward. I think it must have been loose for a while,. Might have to carfully file out the keyways and make an oversize square key. Still haven't heard back from the engine reconditioners, and my gearbox has now been mostly assembled with the new bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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