chistech Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 (edited) I got my own alliant variable speed for u$1800 and felt I stole it too. That was about 3-4 years ago. Now they are even cheaper. Lots of mills closing up here being made into condos my 1943 16” south bend lathe cost me $200! If I had to rent a truck to move it, the truck would have cost more than the lathe. Edited November 10, 2021 by chistech (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bush Mechanic Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 (edited) Interesting thread. I am certainly no expert, but have built two and a half wooden car bodies recently. The tools I found indispensable were:- A good wood worker's vise. Two Japanese hand saws, a Dozuki and a Kataba. from memory about 20 and 16 tpi. A selection of very sharp chisels, including gouges. A spoke-shave A router mounted in a table, for sheet-metal to timber rebates. Hand-held jigsaw Hand held belt sander, to follow after the spoke-shave. Linisher, (a larger fixed belt sander) So not a huge outlay for someone starting into a wooden body. I do use the band saw at the local car-club workshop, and visit a friend who has a table saw, thicknesser etc to size the initial timber stock. Mortices are cut by hand, with the Japanese saws and chisels. Those saws are wonderful tools. Very thin (replaceable) blades and fine teeth, and as mentioned, cutting on the pull stroke. I don't know what a 'jointer' is, but it does sound useful. And tapered drill bits were available in my youth, but not locally at present. It seems I should be looking on-line for those. Most likely you have different names for the same tools in the US. I find it very satisfying work, and much more fun than finishing sheet metal. Edited November 11, 2021 by Bush Mechanic (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan95 Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 A jointer is a long flat surface with a cutter head at the center. It is used before the thickness planer to take the waviness out of boards. The jointer makes one side of the board completely flat. The planer makes the other side parallel to it at whatever thickness you desire. As for Japanese vs western woodworking equipment, there is a popular current trend that says the Japanese saws are superior and the only way to go for accuracy. Both ways are equally good and accurate. When sharpened, a western saw is a wonderful tool. I bought into the Japanese saw idea too at one point, then tried sharpening and using the traditional, for our part of the world, type saws. I personally am more accurate with one of them. I suggest trying both and figuring which one you do better with. More important than the saw is having a good square and marking knife or fine tipped pencil. Layout equipment and your proficiency with using it all is half the battle with making good joints and precise shapes. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAKerry Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 Good Info Ryan. Marking knife def better than a pencil. My furniture endeavors focus on late 18th century repro. I am not a 'hand tool snob' but do like to use what I can. A lot of times hand tools are easier and safer than their power tool counterparts. I have never jumped into the japanese hand saw thing. Nothing wrong with them, I just prefer western tools. They cut on the pull stroke because the blades are too thin to push. Neither is more efficient or does a better job. Its the craftsman that is doing the quality control, not the tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 (edited) Agree on the Exacto knife for line marking. I enjoy working with both wood and metal. Wood for it's grain and "personalty". It's more forgiving than metal and yet more demanding. Metal for it's "exactness" and precision. This is a curly/flame maple, with poplar secondary wood, Gerstner type tool box I made. A bit too gaudy for my taste. A lot of very exact joinery here. Almost no hand cutting tools were used......Bob Edited November 11, 2021 by Bhigdog (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 18 hours ago, chistech said: I got my own alliant variable speed for u$1800 and felt I stole it too. That was about 3-4 years ago. Now they are even cheaper. Lots of mills closing up here being made into condos my 1943 16” south bend lathe cost me $200! If I had to rent a truck to move it, the truck would have cost more than the lathe. Straight and square is relatively easy to master. It's the curves that separate the men from the boys. Best woodworker we ever had working for us was a professionally trained sculptor. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bush Mechanic Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 8 hours ago, ryan95 said: A jointer is a long flat surface with a cutter head at the center. It is used before the thickness planer to take the waviness out of boards. The jointer makes one side of the board completely flat. The planer makes the other side parallel to it at whatever thickness you desire. Thanks Ryan95, It seems it's just a matter of terminology. Your 'joiner' is called a planer here, and your 'planer' is known as the thicknesser. And I take your point regarding the hand saws. I find 'western' tenon saws more difficult to achieve precise cuts with, but that is just me. And I prefer the lightness of the Japanese saw. Also the ability to slip in another blade as required. Personal choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan95 Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 Yes, the terminology is different depending on the country. Its just like bonnet vs hood or trunk vs boot. The European terminology makes more sense to me as far as planers and thicknessers. I just use the American terms because of where I am. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted November 12, 2021 Share Posted November 12, 2021 12 hours ago, Restorer32 said: Straight and square is relatively easy to master. It's the curves that separate the men from the boys. Best woodworker we ever had working for us was a professionally trained sculptor. That’s where the bandsaw, hand planes, chisels, spokeshave, and big disk/belt sander come in. I still use the vertical mill to do a lot of the inletting on the curved pieces. Things like striker pockets, tenons, and mortises are much easier, accurate, and faster to make on the mill. You do have to be somewhat creative when clamping a curved piece but it’s not impossible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted November 12, 2021 Share Posted November 12, 2021 Yea, we use our vertical mill lots to do woodworking. With it we can make dead accurate finger joints. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAKerry Posted November 12, 2021 Share Posted November 12, 2021 Working with curves def adds a twist to woodworking! I would imagine doing woodwork on a car is akin to working on a boat. Havent done either but would like to do a car as a challenge. I have a cabinet to build in a boat for a friend, otherwise have no desire for anything that floats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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