'65 ignition switch Q

[RIVNIK]

Greetings, Folks             Pardon my ignorance when it comes to automotive electrical systems. I should have learned all this in shop class, but after having a beautiful '71 El CaminoSS go up in smoke I vowed to leave it to the professionals from then on. In this case that's you guys. I am in the process of installing my Tayman Electrical rebuilt radio.  I will need power from time to time (without the car running) not only during installation but also for future sitting & listening.. Unfortunately in various places, most noticeably under the dash, are some examples of creative rewiring performed by some unknown PO. Since everything has worked for 30 yrs I've chosen to leave well enough alone for the most part. However, now I'm unsure whether or not I should trust using the ACC side of the ignition switch. I know that leaving the key in the ON position for more than a few seconds will fry the Petronics ignition module. Are my fears unfounded? If not, what's the easiest way to insure there is no power to the ignition system while on ACC?                   I hang on your every word,     Drew

 

[arnulfo de l.a.]

Turn the switch to ACC and check the positive side of the coil for voltage. If present, something is wired wrong. If not you should be good to go. I recommend you use a FUSED assesory circuit . Good luck

[60FlatTop]

A fused circuit would be my choice. Your El Camino has a side post battery. You can get a battery tap that takes a ring terminal right off the + post.

 

Recently I bought a complete harness and relay setup for my two fan Silverado from https://www.bp-automotive.com/

 

It included the power supply adapter and everything was excellent. They sell parts and pigtails that might do the job. Otherwise I would set up a circuit like the stereo guys run.

[RIVNIK]

thanks for the tips. The El Camino, by the way, was completely incinerated back in the late 70's. this is in reference to my '65 Riv

[protrash63]

I think the hardest part about auto wiring harnesses is that you cant see everything.  The systems are really simple. All the power goes out thru the wiring and returns thru the metal of the body and frame.

 

I bought a used 40 dollar harness on Craigslist and spread it all out on my patio. Used a continuity tester and rang out every wire and labeled the whole thing. Its running my 66 Chevy pickup now.  But, now that its in there its tough to see where I routed things as its all in convoluted tubing and strapped up.  Get a wiring guide!  very helpful.

[RivNut]

Just now, protrash63 said:

I think the hardest part about auto wiring harnesses is that you cant see everything.  The systems are really simple. All the power goes out thru the wiring and returns thru the metal of the body and frame.

 

I bought a used 40 dollar harness on Craigslist and spread it all out on my patio. Used a continuity tester and rang out every wire and labeled the whole thing. Its running my 66 Chevy pickup now.  But, now that its in there its tough to see where I routed things as its all in convoluted tubing and strapped up.  Get a wiring guide!  very helpful.

Did the same thing with a 55 Chevy one time. Someone prior to me really chopped up the original harness.  I laid the repo out on the garage floor and, if the part was not too big, attached it to the harness as it lay on the garage floor.  No distributor, generator, or starter motor but probably everything else.

[telriv]

Way back when I bought a '62 Invicta bucket seat/console car for $20.00. ALL & I mean ALL the wiring was missing.  This included the radiator, heater core & whatever MAY have been copper. Copper back then was a very valuable commodity. 

My Dad would take ALL the wiring on the ground from various job sites the Elecritricens would throw on the ground & strip some of the sheathing then put the rest in a 55 gallon drum & light it on fire. Talk about black smoke.

Found a wrecked '63 LeSabre for $10.00 & stripped it of ALL it's wiring & components & moded what's nec.  When done I gave it to my Mom who drove it for about 10 years. Then sold it for a profit less my time of course.

Back then things were so much simpler.  Basics.

 

Tom T.

 

 

[steelman]

One of the reasons I parked my 55 Chevy hardtop years ago was because some genius had retired it. In light blue. Every wire, the entire car, was redone with all light blue wiring. I need to put a new harness in it, but I tell myself if I am going that far, the entire car gets blown apart for a redo. Just haven’t pulled the trigger yet. Yes, I still have the car. No, it is not for sale.

[RivNut]

3 hours ago, steelman said:

One of the reasons I parked my 55 Chevy hardtop years ago was because some genius had retired it. In light blue. Every wire, the entire car, was redone with all light blue wiring. I need to put a new harness in it, but I tell myself if I am going that far, the entire car gets blown apart for a redo. Just haven’t pulled the trigger yet. Yes, I still have the car. No, it is not for sale.

Back when I did my 55, a repro harness was not that expensive.  They’re done in correct colors. Get a laminated, colored coded wiring diagram and go to town.

 

Right now I’m in the process of removing all of the back tape from the harness on my 64 Riviera so I can clean dirt and paint off the wires and see the original color.  I’m putting a zip tie around the bundle every 6-8 inches and before and after every wire that branches out from the main loom.  Sure makes hooking everything back up an easy task.  I’m Lind of liking all the multicolored wires on the black firewall and inner fenders.  I’ll need to think twice about rewrapping it.

[XframeFX]

11 hours ago, RivNut said:

They’re done in correct colors. Get a laminated, colored coded wiring diagram and go to town.

Expensive to buy 150' spools of various gauge and colour wire. No one makes harnesses for 1st gen Rivs but https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/ will do one-offs. New harnesses should consist of GXL or SXL automotive wire. An indicator is 125 deg. C rating. Not 85 deg. C for common primary wire sold in box stores. Marine wire is inbetween - 105 deg. C rating.

11 hours ago, RivNut said:

I’m in the process of removing all of the back tape from the harness on my 64 Riviera

I removed the wrap from my instrument panel harness to add a couple of circuits and was almost sorry I did. The 58 year old wrap was still in great shape and was applied by hand with great skill! I re-wrapped with black 1 mil self fusing silicone tape. It has a high temp rating but is delicate and can tear when installing in the sheetmetal. Do not use black electrical tape.

[1965rivgs]

8 hours ago, XframeFX said:

Expensive to buy 150' spools of various gauge and colour wire. No one makes harnesses for 1st gen Rivs but https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/ will do one-offs. New harnesses should consist of GXL or SXL automotive wire. An indicator is 125 deg. C rating. Not 85 deg. C for common primary wire sold in box stores. Marine wire is inbetween - 105 deg. C rating.

I removed the wrap from my instrument panel harness to add a couple of circuits and was almost sorry I did. The 58 year old wrap was still in great shape and was applied by hand with great skill! I re-wrapped with black 1 mil self fusing silicone tape. It has a high temp rating but is delicate and can tear when installing in the sheetmetal. Do not use black electrical tape.

  Marine wiring also has better corrosion resistance, or so I have been told. That characteristic may appeal to some folks depending on application.

  Same for silicone hose...great except for poor abrasion resistance.

Tom