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Have to sell my 89 Reatta


1989randyboy
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I LOVED driving this car. But I've got a problem with the engine that has drained my wallet. It will start and run at around 3,000 rpm's. As the rpm's go down it will miss and pop until it eventually quits. I had it running ok except every time I turned it off it wouldn't restart. I sent it to a local mechanic only to have it come back worse than ever. It will restart now, but won't stay running at lower rpm's. New coil pack,crank sensor,cam sensor, plugs, wires, serpentine belt, Harmonic balancer because the rubber went bad. $1400 later and I have a lawn ornament. Could still be the cam sensor magnet,wiring issue or the computer.  I have to give it up because of money and health issues. It has other issues like remote lock quit working. A new module didn't help. Cruise doesn't work. Trunk lock activator doesn't work. A/C works great, but a sensor shuts down the compressor after several warnings. Nothing that stopped me from driving the car and it's been so much fun. I searched for years before buying this one. There must be a lover out there somewhere that would give me a fair offer for it. The tires will have to be replaced.They only have 3-4,000 miles, but the sidewalls are cracking. Someone that wants a winter project could have a nice driver for next year. No idea of value, but see they don't go for much.  About 139,000 miles on it. Tan interior. 

Reaatta 2017a.jpg

Reatta 2017c.jpg

Reatta 1.JPG

Tailight cleaning with Aim toothpaste 007.JPG

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I will sell the car to anyone offering a fair price. I know that the parts are valuable but hopefully someone will fix and drive it. Just have to get it running and new tires. The other issues don't stop you from driving it. I'm located about 10 miles east of Syracuse, NY. Have maintenance records. Only driven about 4K miles since 2013. Looking to sell by November. Considering best offers until then.

 

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I'll bet the magnet is missing from the cam sprocket.  Remove the cam position sensor and spin the engine to bring the magnet (or the empty hole) into view opposite the cam sensor hole to confirm the diagnosis.

 

Refer to this thread: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/364510-crank-sensor-replacement-help/?tab=comments#comment-2264534

Edited by EmTee (see edit history)
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That's one of the things I haven't checked yet. Got tired of working on it and I've been doing other things. I've heard the TPS could be bad. Maybe the onboard computer is a problem also. Maybe a wiring issue somewhere? Strange that it ran worse after the garage I took it to worked on it. They changed the cam sensor a second time and put new spark plugs in it. Gave them almost $800 hoping to get it fixed. Very disappointed.

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I zoomed in on your last picture Randy, it looks like  the vacuum  line just to the left of the MAF sensor is unplugged from the throttle body. You might want to check it and all the other vacuum lines. After 30+ years they get cracked and turn your hands black like charcoal when you touch them. A bad or disconnected vacuum line could disable the cruise control too. 

I dont think a bad cam sensor or magnet would cause a 3000rpm idle. You could try unplugging the MAF sensor connector, If the sensor is bad the car should run better unplugged. 

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It does look like the purge line for the charcoal cannister is disconnected. I believe that port is a form of ported vacuum where it is just outside the throttle blade and shouldn't cause the idle speed issue, but I have learned to never say never on some of these items. It should be connected in any case. I noticed the rear plug wires are routed incorrectly. That in itself isn't an issue as long as they are connected to the correct spark plug. That has fooled many people over the year. Simple to double check. The other reason I mention the plug wires is they normally route under the alternator and behind the power steering pump where the pcv valve is located. A vacuum leak there will be out of sight and it is not uncommon for the rubber grommets to get hard, brittle and crack. I know I am now on a crusade to check, but check ED01 in the ECM Data screen in diagnostics. That is the throttle position sensor and it should be .38v-.42v at idle. The engine doesn't even need to be running, just key on, enter diagnostics and check that reading. Also press on the throttle and see that the reading increases smoothly.

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I will look into the suggestions that I've received. The engine runs on all 6 at 3,000 rpm. Just that it misfires and cuts out as I ease up on the pedal. The lower I go the worse it gets until it just quits running. It will restart  now as it wouldn't before. No codes in the computer because I changed the battery.

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Well, The car has sat for about three weeks now. Cooler weather has come. I went out today to check the things that were brought to my attention. Before doing anything I tried to start it up. Amazingly it started immediately and idled at 700 rpm. No hesitation or anything bad. I replaced the vacuum line that Rogold99 mentioned previously as it was deteriorated. Ran and revved up for a half hour with no problem. Fan was kicking in for the radiator normally.  Attached a vacuum gauge and it's running at a rock solid 20 inches with no variations. I'm still thinking there's a wiring issue somewhere. No misfire or hesitation seen. Restarted with no trouble either. I wanted to upload videos of the engine running and the vacuum gauge in use, But the size of videos are too large to transfer to the forum. Still need to sell as I've moved on to other projects. 

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