Type of Lub to use in trans and rear-end?

[Frank Wilkie]

I have a 1934 Buick 50 series and I'm wanting to drain and refill the transmission and rear - end.. Shop manual call's out 90wt winter and 160 summer.  What would you suggest today for a lubrication that won't attack any bronze bushing that may be in these units?  

[broker-len]

Contact Warren oil      910 892 3342 or  910 892 6456   I use their product 140   all year round

[TexRiv_63]

Not sure if Buick would differ but for my 34 Chevy I was advised to use good old 600W Model T / steam cylinder oil. I believe it aligns with the later 160 SAE weight specs. My car had 140 in it and the 600 helped it shift better and run quieter.

[Grimy]

23 minutes ago, TexRiv_63 said:

Not sure if Buick would differ but for my 34 Chevy I was advised to use good old 600W Model T / steam cylinder oil. I believe it aligns with the later 160 SAE weight specs. My car had 140 in it and the 600 helped it shift better and run quieter.

Don, do you have hypoid gears in your diff, and synchro in your transmission?  I don't know if your Standard used different equipment than the Master.  The diff lube choice is more critical, in my view....

[Frank DuVal]

Avoid GL-5 if bronze is present.  Most say GL-4 is OK. Your transmission is sliding gears, not hypoid. GL-1 is still an active specification for mild service in transmissions. GL-4 has more additives that may be needed or "nice to have".

 

https://www.oilspecifications.org/api_gos.php

 

 

[TexRiv_63]

20 hours ago, Grimy said:

Don, do you have hypoid gears in your diff, and synchro in your transmission?  I don't know if your Standard used different equipment than the Master.  The diff lube choice is more critical, in my view....

Not sure about hypoid gears but pretty sure rear axle was the same on standard and master. Standard trans was different, "Silent Second" versus full synchro. Buick experts should chime in.

[Bloo]

I believe Buick's first hypoid axle was in the 1937 Special and Century.

[49-P15]

Napa has a GL-1 (no phosphorus/Sulfer Additives)  It is SAE90 which should work well in our old cars.

 

This is more than you need to know, but...  The Phosphorus and Sulfer additives form a bond a couple of atoms thick and it is tougher than hell.  It is tougher than the bond between the bronze atoms so as time go by the bronze to bronze bonds break off peeling microscopic sheets of the bronze.  What you see is erosion of the bronze.

[Larry Schramm]

Here is what I use in my cars & trucks.  All older than 100 years old.  Lubriplate SPO 299.  You can buy it in quart containers, but it is quite expensive in the smaller bottles.

 

https://avepetroleum.com/product/show/lubriplate_spo-299_gear_and_bearing_oil_l0249-035_(35_lb_pail)?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5JSLBhCxARIsAHgO2ScRZKTLMw9TbxYTFZrcBNXizIEDuSQjFj5sJ3WMQblMpUvy1VCq-jQaAkxcEALw_wcB

Edited October 12, 2021 by Larry Schramm (see edit history)