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1932 buick series 67 serial number


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Hi, I am new to the forum, trying to learn more about my car, so forgive my ignorance about 30s cars (I have experience with 40s-50s cars, this rare 1st year 1932 is new to me).

I have a 1932 series 67 body # 2621919 with engine # 2772982 and I would like to find out from y'all experts- do these numbers match, and what approx time of year in 1932 the car was built (I am guessing april 1932, but I dont know).


Its a very fine car to drive and maintain, and if you can believe my wife likes driving it too more than the 1950 ford, and once I get the shredded composite cam gear replaced, I hope to have it on the road again in the spring.


Thanks y'all for the amazing comments and info on this forum as purveyors of an amazing American heritage in the garage and on the road!




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Nice car......welcome to the forum. Lots of Buick guys here to answer your specific questions. Your posting in the right area. Good luck........


PS- numbers matching on a closed car won’t affect value on a 32 Buick sedan. Interesting to know history/provenance........but zero on value.

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Thanks, appreciate the feedback.  I am a history buff, I like to learn, I don't care about market value so much with VINs and models, I am more interested in the tech specs and knowledge of years and VINs.  Books and catalogs are good, learning from info passed down each generation and through mentorship is invaluable.  

The Buick is a fun car to drive, even it has a terribly shredded composite cam gear which is going to cause me to spend many hours tearing apart the front end.

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There were 9,013 1932 -67 cars built.  A high number considering that they sold a total of less than 40,000 cars across the 26 models plus some right hand drive cars and stripped chassis.


I hope these attached photos come through okay.  The engine numbers and chassis number have no relationship to each other.  Buick issued blocks of numbers to the body builders and issued engine numbers  sequentionally  from year to year.


Welcome to the 32 Buick world.  Let me know how I can help you enjoy your car.



32 info.jpg

32 number.jpg

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So my car is a 31 8-66S and I had the same concern as to whether or not my car had the engine it was born with.  Answer?  Not 100% sure, Buick did not keep records of which engine went into what chassis and there was no effort to have the engine serial number match the chassis number.  I confirmed this with Dave Dunton whose 31 8-66S has never been apart and has a lower chassis number than engine number.  My chassis number starts with 246, my engine number starts with 257.  This is a comparison of the chassis number on a plate riveted to the right side of the frame some distance behind the front axle to the number stamped on a machined pad on the engine behind the oil filler and above the rear tappet cover.

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I suspect that you car based on the serial number has a replacement motor, maybe 1933 or even 1934.  There's not a whole lot of difference in the engines in these years.


What is the color of the engine block?  Original 1932 cars were Black and 1933 engines were a blue/green color.  This is not always a good indicator as many owners repainted the engines when they did overhauls.


Bob Engle

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I'm going to make some observations, but please don't take them as critical.  These cars are what they were originally and what previous owners did with them.  Believe me I live with a lot of warts on my 1917 unrestored D45.  It still is a lot of fun to drive and take folks for a ride.


On your car it looks like the right horn trumpet tapered piece is painted black.  To the best of my knowledge, on model 56 and 57 had painted horns.

It appears that your car was repainted as the cowl band is black while the original were chrome plated steel.  The chrome on the original cars would flake off.  Most restored cars have a reproduction brass/chrome cowl band.

I like the wood wheels!  This is getting near the end of wood wheels on Buicks.

All 32 Buicks had pin striping on the body reveals.

I would love to see some photos of the engine bay, especially the carburetor and exhaust manifolds.


Bob Engle

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I am pretty sure this car has been redone in the last 20-40yrs.  I am at least the 4th known owner (original buyer, Fmr Senator Rod Grams brother Gary Grams, and another fellow who had it since about 2000).

I was told it was reupholstered 20+yrs ago.

Paint job is in good shape, but it wasn't a perfect job, and it appears to have been done on only the body.

Undercarriage looks original, including the leaf spring gaiters (no tin covers, just wrapped gaiters).


I also included a pic of the shredded cam gear (I have two spare composite gears with two different hole diameters for the camshaft bolts).

Should I go with aluminum, or use the NOS gears (they have a few nicks and chips in the teeth, so I am wary)?  Bob's sells them for $340 now, yikes.

If I go with aluminum, where to buy?

Generator gasket appeared to be original paper, and was very difficult to coax off, thankfully nothing damaged, including my knuckles.


Any advice on the best way to tear off the front end, get the front engine support off (how do I safely support the engine while I work on it?)?

Any advice on what I should inspect while things are torn apart?

Any advice on putting everything back together - order of operation, gotchas?

How about timing - do I follow the shop manual, or is there anything special I need to consider like hand cranking to set the cam/main gears, then hand crank to set the distributor?

Spark advance works, kind of fun to cautiously play with.


I am not looking to rebuild/repaint the motor etc, I want to drive it and so does my wife!

I am planning to replace most inspection cover gaskets and look inside as much as the engine as possible without removing the head.

Generator has new brushes, and feels smooth and tight, water pump is similar, although I plan to rebuild (need to repack the leaky shaft nut).

Wizard control appears to be complete.

I am going to completely rewire the car after the engine is RTS.

Heat riser not cracked (yea!), but I do have a spare one which looks like it contained an IED, oye.

The carb heat system is rigged off as you can see in the pics.

Tires are for a 50 series 5.25/5.50, so I plan to replace them at some point to the 60 series 6.00, probably go with Coker blackwalls.


I have two horn trumpets, black painted on car now, full chrome in a box (sharp and clean).

I have noticed some things which make me think a few parts are from other than 60 series and maybe other than 1932.

I had a 'whew' moment recently when the non-60 series fuel pump broke.  Found a homemade fuel link lever that broke at the weld.  I found a correct 60 series pump and made two into one working pump.  And thankfully my son made a Solidworks model of the vacuum and fuel links, and then printed them in our 3D printer.  I can get these made at a machine shop now, probably out of titanium or something which won't leave my family stranded on the side of the road again.

Unless anyone has a better idea, I am going to look at Dennis Carpenter for a replacement ignition switch - appears GM and Fords used the same suppliers for the electrical switch.  I think this was a cool idea to put the ignition switch AND steering wheel lock in a single unit!


At about 58kmi, it seems like much is still original, but there are some wear areas which need TLC, including lube for the steering, shocks, etc.

I have been trolling on this forum and have found an immense amount of info, thank you all.

I still need a lot of guidance and info, so please continue to help me!




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I don't think it matters whether you use aluminum or fiber timing gears.  Properly cared for gears will last a long time.  I have 6 junk engines and while there is some wear on the gears, They don't show any signs of tooth failure.  The lube system pumps oil from the sump through the heat exchanger on the passenger side back down to a distribution tube that delivers oil to the main bearings and on to the rod bearings. A second oil line supplies oil to the  Filter and on to the rocker arm shaft.  AT the front of rocker arm shaft, runs down the front to lube  the timing gears and generator bushing.  Only a portion of the oil gets filtered. 

With the non detergent  oils of the time period, oil pans had a large sump to allow dirt and water to settle out.  This is why the oil capacity is so high on these engines, 8 qts on 60 series.

The oil line from the filter to the rocker arms is 1/8" copper tubing.  this is to restrict the oil flow to the top of the engine.  Since the original oil filters are not available, many people installed canister filters and increased the line size, thus negating the restriction desired and allowing too much oil to the rocker arms.


With many of these vehicles stored for long periods of time, the proper start up would be to drain the oil, remove the pan and clean the sludge from the pan and oil pump screen.  Install a new oil filter, and remove the rocker arm cover and pour oil down the front of the cylinder head to lubricate the gears.  Now with new oil, filter lubricated gears you can now attempt to start the engine.


In my opinion, timing gears fail for 2 reasons, water pump packing is too tight or no lube was applied to the gears.  In general, the valvetrain doesn't generate a lot of resistance.  Low spring pressures and roller tappets keep loading down.  the generator doesn't create much loading and the water pump shouldn't either.  When people see leakage at the pump gland, their first reaction is to tighten the gland.  I prefer to start up with some leakage and only adjust while the engine is running to get it to a minimum.  If leakage is excessive, rebuild the water pump and put in new packing.  I know some people just put a cup under the gland when storing the car to catch a minimal drip.


I don't know of a supplier for aluminum gears.  I have a friend that had a set made for his 32-57.  They are not cheap.  I can get the info if you need it. 60 series gears are different from the 50 series.


Bob Engle




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Thanks for the info Bob about oil distribution and proper maintenance.

Is it possible the main seal failed, then leaked oil into the gears and softened the composite gear? 

Is the composite gear susceptible to oil/water softening?

I was told the car has seen very few miles/hours in the last 20yrs.

I notice a lot of oil in with the gears, I now have a porridge of black oily fiber shreds which can be spooned out.


I may need to inspect a lot more when the front engine support is removed...


I like the commodore blue paint code 285 with the black trim, very subdued way to combine two darker colors.

I am not sure I would paint/pinstripe the wood wheels at this point, I think they look pretty cool natural, but who knows what the future brings.

Please share any photos you can!

Edited by 32buick67 (see edit history)
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When the car is driven, oil flows down from the front of the cylinder head onto the gears and then back into the pan.  Oil should not damage the gears.  Thick oil is common on old cars that haven't had modern oils in their systems.  You can most likely expect to find very thick oil in the pan.  I would plan on a good flush of all oil passageways.

While the pan is off, I would remove at least one rod bearing cap and see the condition of the journals and babbit surfaces.  You may want to order a gasket set from Olsens.

One other area that you may want to inspect is the water jacket.  These engines with old antifreeze would build up sludge in the back corners.  There is a stamped sheet metal cover on the driver side of the engine.  These are prone to corrosion eating the metal and they will leak eventually.  If you remove this pan you will be able to inspect and clean the water galleys around the cylinders.  I like to clean to bare metal the inner surfaces of this pan and then coat it with JB Weld  to prevent further damage to the cover. 


I don't want to overwhelm you with everything now.  I'll attempt to add small details  along the way.  I am free to talk with you most anytime.  I can be reached at 540 247 8634 and we can take this conversation private with direct email if you want'  bengle1917@gmail.com

32B2 (1)_800x532.jpg

32B2 (2)_800x532.jpg


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The original were silk screen printed.  There are printed sheets sold that can be applied to the panels.  It's a project to remove the dash gauges to apply the sheet to the metal surface and reassemble.  The glove box door is not as bad to restore.


The photos are not of my car.  I have a 1932 Model 58 that is having the interior restored at present.


Bob Engle

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Here's how I would get to timing gear for repair.  1.  Remove the badge bar from between the headlights. 

2.  Hood removal,  recruit 3 other people,  Open the hood on both sides, Remove the 2 screws on the top of the  radiator shell. With a person on each corner of the hood, Lift up the front about and inch and slide the hood forward until it detaches from the attachment on the cowl.  Carefully lift the hood up and carry it to the front and clear of the car.  I like to spread an old comforter on the floor and stand the hood up on the rear edge.

3.  remove the nuts that hold the rod in place between the radiator and the cowl.  

4.  remove the 2 radiator hoses. After draining the radiator of course.

5 Remove the 2 cotter keyed castle nuts on the bottom of the radiator that hold the radiator in place.

6.  lift up the radiator assembly and lay it flat on the comforter.

7.  locate and remove the shim pads that set the radiator to the correct height.

8.  remove the fanblade assembly.

9.  Drain the engine oil and remove the oil pan.

10.  Remove the crankshaft fan pulley.

11. jack the car up under the front axle about an inch.

12 stand to pieces of 2X6 lumber cut to length on the floor and edges of the engine block pan flanges.

13.  Remove the front engine mount bolts.

13 release the jack.  

14 now you can remove the bolts to from the front cover and remove it.  It is held in position by some dowl pins. 

Now you can go to work on the timing gears.


Bob Engle

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On your wiring, I always recommend replacing the original.  The woven cloth insulation deteriorates with age and can lead to shorts.  There are 2 ways to approach this project, you can purchase complete wiring assemblies from several reputable  suppliers.  In my mind they are expensive.  The second alternative is to build your own. For about $500 in materials you can make your own if you can splice and solder, saving over $1000 from assembled harnesses. I have the wire info to build your own from loom, connectors, reproduction original pattern wire.


Before embarking on this you need to think about what you want to end up with.  There are no fuses in the original, only an overload relay.  Do you want turn signals, Do you want higher wattage headlamps etc.  Many people are going to LED lamps.  Do your gauges work properly?  especially the fuel gauge. On the battery cables, I always install a cutout on the positive cable to the battery. No terminal disconnect!!!!  get a good cutout switch.  Increase the battery cable gauge.  No 12 volt modern cables.  The car will start much better with large cables.  


There are essentially 3 wiring bundles,  one to the  light switch on the bottom of 'steering column to the tail lights, brakelight switch, and gas gauge. Second from light switch to front lights and horns.  Third under dash to gauges, switches, ignition and generator.


There are several metal loom tee connectors in the harnesses.  See attached photos.  You won't find these on purchased assemblies.  


Bob Engle

wiring 008_800x600.jpg

wiring 012_800x600.jpg

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Wow, thanks Bob, this is great info!

As I continue to work on prepping for the cam gear change, I want to make sure I have everything on hand before I start (trying to be as prudent as possible for the what-ifs).

FYI, I am not a fan of RTV, so if possible I would like to buy/make necessary gaskets, especially since I might be the first person taking the front end apart in a very long time and I don't know what to expect.


-Should I install new motor mounts while the front end is apart? (they inspect ok now, but I cannot see everything clearly)  If replace, where to buy?

-I will probably need a timing cover gasket set, where to buy? Olsons?

-I need a generator-to-timing cover gasket, where to buy? Olsons?

-Hood has broken clips (on top of radiator bracket), should I fab new ones, or where to buy?

-Do I need a fan assembly rebuild kit (bearing, gasket, belt, etc.), or should I just inspect and RTS if all is ok? 

-Is the fan assy fully serviceable when the front end is back together?  (in case I need to replace the belt, etc. in the future after the car has been running fine for a while)

-Since the water pump seems fine now, if I decide to rebuild it later, will it be as simple as draining coolant, removing the pump and rebuilding the pump on the bench?

-Hastings LF136 oil filter is currently installed, and I believe it has the correct 1/8" line to the rockers.  Should I stick with the LF136 (or recommended equal) or change to something else?

-When I remove the rod bearing cap for babbitt inspection, do I need to do anything special when I reinstall the cap?  Torque spec?  Shim gauge?




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For wiring, I can definitely use some help with lists, lengths, the 3 harness breakouts, connectors, end termination type, etc.

I am an electrical guy, so I enjoy making my own harnesses and I enjoy the meticulous nature of getting things correct.

I agree on the 6v cars, don't skimp, especially with the starter (I will likely upgrade to 1/0 or 2/0).

I found Brillman to be an incredible resource, would you consider them for wire supplies such as the original cotton-pvc wire, asphalt looms, etc.?


Yes to LED!!  I already changed the rear lamp and stop light to LED, and wow, amazing.  I have a little more peace of mind with a bright red LED for the stop/backup light since there are so many crazy drivers who tailgate (must be spatially challenged), and most folks are clueless about hand signals.

No to turn signals - personal note, we enjoy the solace in the lack of seatbelts, lack of turn signals, lack of radio while driving in the open country roads.

I do however plan to rewire to the original gauges, so LED or incandescent, who knows what the future holds, and it isn't much more $ to go with the original 10awg, 12awg etc.

Do you know where I can get a headlight LED bulb?


Fuel gauge works, kind of - some days it reads overfull, some days it reads 1/4 tank, none of the readings relate to actual fuel level...not sure if its the sending unit (I haven't dropped the tank yet to inspect, nor have I tested the 0-30ohm performance), not sure if its the gauge in the dash.  Thoughts? 

Any thoughts?


Cutout switch - do you mean a remote high current relay switch which opens and closes based on the ignition switch position?  Or do you mean a simple two-post manual lever switch which can be mounted in the engine bay?  I agree about avoiding a batter post-mounted switch due to accessibility.


Overcurrent protection - yes, for sure I plan to apply modern fusing in key circuits, I prefer to be extra safe.  Any suggestions on which circuits to protect?


I am pleased that the backup light switch and stop light switch still work, so I don't plan to do anything with these other than inspect.  Please pass along any advice if you think of anything to continue extending their lives. (eg. don't leave the car in reverse while parked).


Metal tee connector - are these reusable?  If missing, do I need them?  They look simple enough to fab if needed.


Horns - someone installed a black horn (1931 or earlier I think) on the driverside firewall (ref my prior pic).  The horn works, I think its a K18, but no klaxon label to verify.  I have one working K26 horn, the other is completely rusted and will never RTS.  Do you know where to buy a K26?  How do I determine high note vs low note?  The K18+K26 sound awful together, enough to wake the dead, but they work to get attention, so for now they meet my safety criteria. Are these correct power plant internals: #1844305 (low note left), #1844306 (high note right)?


Thanks again,






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I don't like TRV either.  I'm old school and use Permatex Forma gasket.  

I prefer to make most gaskets myself.  Buy the right thickness of gasket material, with the timing cover, lay the gasket material on the flange and locate enough bolt holes and gasket punch the holes put some bolts through the gasket to help keep it in place and then take a small ball peen hammer and tap the edges of the housing.  Frequently you can cut through the gasket material or use a razer knife  in tight corners.  


You can make the front mount decision once the cover is removed.  They are easy to replace and with the rear motor mount solid to the frame, there is little torque transmitted to the front.  Bob's Automobilia or Steele Rubber would have the mounts.

Do you mean the U shaped clips that hold the radiator to the chrome shell?  Restoration Supply would have the replacements.

The fan assembly is unusual.  the mounting arm is held to the engine with a large shoulder bolt. by removing this bolt, the entire fan assembly can be removed.  The fan belt is hardy ever a problem as it only drives the fan blade and has no idler pressing against the back.  The big issue with the fan assembly is that spins on a bushing.  Motor oil is inside the housing and there is small spur gear oil pump to keep lube on the bushing.  Put the screw up, remove screw, add oil, turn down 180 degrees and excess flow ot.  replace screw.  A number of people have installed a sealed ball bearing in a housing that fits inside the original housing.  No more lube or risk of a frozen bushing.


You are correct on the water pump.  The oil filter is fine.  For show cars, there is a canister that looks like the original style but it has a modern spin filter inside.


When you remove the rod or main bearing caps, be careful not to disturb the shims.  The way to check bearing clearance is by using Plastigage.  You can buy it a Autoparts stores.  Clearance should be 001 to .002".  Buy .003" plastigage.  Remove the cap cut a piece of plastigage the width of the babbit. install the cap and torque to spec.  Remove the cap and using the scale on the gauge packaging to determine your clearance.  If clearance is too large,  remove shims to get to the correct clearance.  An interesting side note:  Rod ends are larger than the bore, so piston removal and instalation is from the bottom.


Send me a PM with your mailing address and I will send you the wiring charts.  I'll include the phone contact for the healamp LED's.  John Brillman is my preferred source


 for vintage wiring needs.


I salvaged the connecters for my harnesses, but most people skip them and just butt the loom up tight.  You will be surprised when you look inside the original connections.


On the horns, I believe the internals are the same for both.  The difference is in the spring mounts horn to bracket.  I do not have any usable extra horns.


Bob Engle




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The hood is now off, radiator out, and I need to remove the crank nut/pulley.

Nut measures 1-7/8", but I could probably use a pipe wrench.

Is the nut a right or left hand thread?

I can guess at thread direction based on the normal rotational direction of the engine and hand crank direction, but I would like to know from an expert.

What is the best way to block the shaft while torque is applied to the nut?

I suppose I could clamp the pulley with wood/plastic to make a friction block.


Can I use a standard 3-leg pulley puller to remove the crank pulley?


The outlet metal radiator tube at the bottom of the radiator appears to be quite rusted, and has been braze repaired.

I think I should replace this, any thoughts where to buy or how to fab?



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Put the car in gear, apply the emergency brake.  the threads are Right hand so CCW on the socket.  they are usually not very tight.    Pipe wrench should be fine.  The pulley is keyed with a straight bore.  A few blocks of wood on the cover and two pry bars and the pulley should slide right off.


On the radiator, I would take it to a Good radiator shop and have them  dip and back flush the radiator.  Test for leaks but don't allow any more than 2-3 PSI.  No need to stress the core on an open cooling system.  If they are good, let them choose the repair method.


Bob Engle

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The nut was extremely tight, but with quite a few prayers, patience and soaking in penetrating oil, it finally budged.

You were right Bob about the pulley, it was quite easy to coax off using wood levers.


The cam gear is a mess, and I cannot get it to budge off the shaft.

After I removed the 7/8" hex head fine thread screw from the end of the camshaft, I tried inserting threaded studs through the gear inspection/access holes with back stop/catches on the threaded stud as described in other forums, but no go.  I also was able to sneak a flat prybar behind the gear to see if I could work the circumference of the gear to get it to move, but no go.

I am going to soak it in penetrating oil overnight, hopefully it moves tomorrow.

Any clever thoughts on how to remove it are appreciated.

I haven't tried heat yet, but I am thinking about it....small propane torch help?

I don't mind destroying the remnants of the composite gear, and then coaxing the metal hub off the camshaft and keyway if that is an option.


Mystery of cam gear failure - inspections so far by hand rotating the crank, cam, fan, generator, water pump are all smooth and low friction.  Did the gear just reach EOL after approx 200 million revolutions in its life?


NOS cam gears are slightly different.  One has number 355 stamped in the composite, and the other has 188-1-60.  I wrote in black sharpie for clarity.

Inspection holes are different diameters.

Should I be concerned?

Are the timing marks aligned to the hub keyway with a small 0 stamping near the gear teeth?  I added more black sharpie for clarity.



Pulled the covers, looks clean except one cylinder wall.

Any ideas on why the tan foamy sludge would collect in this area and not other areas?

Are the pushrod bolts missing lockwire?




20211004_165938 - Copy.jpg

Edited by 32buick67 (see edit history)
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Bob, I was going to call you, but time escaped me today.

I learned that after 7hrs of patience, the cam timing gear is finally off the camshaft.

Before - composite material removed from the metal hub....





After the hub was removed....



The cam bolt is reinstalled so I can test hand rotate the camshaft and valvetrain.

Note the valleys in the cam gear metal hub, pretty cool.

The composite material has corresponding formed ridges.  I would be shocked if the composite rotated on the metal hub, it was ridiculously difficult to remove the composite material from the hub, and the composite material had to be pried and pealed from the metal.  I should post pics, its amazing engineering.


Next up is cleaning the rocker arm assy - I think this is the smoking gun for what caused the cam gear failure.

Hand rotating the cam was easy at some points, then when I let the cam sit, then if I tried to hand rotate again I can feel a stiff resistance and binding then release.

Its a shame the former owner let this car sit....it needs to run and be driven.

Time to clean rocker arms, oil lines, etc.


I need to learn how to install the cam gear...not just timing (been reading past posts) but mechanical fitup without damaging the teeth or causing binding.

I might try to open the ID of the cam gear metal hub, but TBD...






Edited by 32buick67 (see edit history)
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Don't forget the oil pump is driven off the cam shaft.

Push rods are held down against the cam cam by springs under the plate on top of the lifter casting.  the lifter casting are keyed to the engine block and are fitted to that particular location.  If you remove them, don't mix them up.


Have you checked that the flywheel is on properly?  It is likely that this engine was apart sometime in it's history.  There are 8 bolts holding the flywheel to the crankshaft.  they are equally spaced and if not marked when apart, it's easy to get them on so the timing marks don't show in the bell housing opening.


You might want to replace the core plug while you have the gear out of the way.  You would sure cuss if you put the gear on and the plug leaked coolant into the oil.




Bob Engle




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I haven't checked the flywheel timing yet, but I will.

Spent time removing the water jacket cover, and the patience paid off, I didn't have to remove/disturb the manifolds.

One of the holes in the block for the cover is stripped, can I tap the block and use an oversize bolt?


Anyone care to take a guess what was found settled in the front and rear of the blocks water jacket in an engine which has been fully assembled and running a few times per year for the last 20+ years?


I guessed rust scale, hard water scale, some dirt/debris, and maybe even some oil....


...but not seeds - note the 1/4" long ovals, after removing some I was able to confirm they are not per Buick spec.


Core plug - how to replace?  Drill it out, then tap in new?  Some remove with a screwdriver by gently tapping the plug rim until it deforms or pivots.






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I have drilled a small hole into the center of the core plugs, and then run a sheet metal screw into the hole.  Then a pry bar can be used to pull the plugs out.  I have on occasions where I couldn't get a pry bar on to pull it use a die grinder an small carbide bit to cut into the lip on the plugs to weaken them enough to pull out.


Bob Engle

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By the way, the other side of the water jacket that has no good access will have more sludge than you see on the cover side.  I have removed some head bolts, Particularly the back right bolt and squirted water under pressure to  force the crud Through the gaps in the cylinder walls.


Bob Engle

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Thanks Bob,


Where do I get new core plugs?

Is this ebay a legit source, or are these china junk? https://www.ebay.com/itm/182528035402


Water jacket, can I use a pressure washer (I can adj pressure on my washer) aimed from the water jacket side, back around the cylinder casting, to blast out the hidden sediment?

Can I use Evapo-rust to dissolve the cooling system settled rust (chelate) over a few engine flushes, once the engine is RTS if I am not able to dislodge the heavy settled debris?


I am trying to avoid removing head bolts...its not that I haven't rebuilt my share of engines from a variety of vintages, its just that in a rare 32 Buick 272, I am a little more cautious than usual, and I don't want to do a full engine rebuild with this engine if I don't have to.  I would, not afraid to, but so far things are still just above the line health wise, but I don't want to rush a RTS, which is why I am opening everything up.


I am planning to leave the cam timing gear OFF until I have cleaned, flushed, and prepped as much as I can with the headset, oil passages, debris removal, etc. because I want to be able to hand rotate the cam to ensure things keep settling down out of the valve train and not getting stuck on the cam or in the pushrod guides.

Once I am satisfied no debris remains, I plan to install the cam gear.

I likely need help because I don't know how to do that without: ruining the fiber teeth, being off by a tooth or two and needing to remove the gear and rotate it.

I am aware I need to align the crank gear timing line mark to the cam gear 0 timing mark, install the generator and its gear after the cam gear is installed, but this is a big first for me.

Do I open up the cam gear metal hub slightly so its not so much of an interference fit?

Do I mod the shaft key to be more loose?

Do I need to tap the cam gear on the camshaft with a mallet?



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Core plugs can be purchased from a local autoparts store.

Pressure washer will work okay.  lots of people use evaporust.  I've had no experience with it.

I've never installed the cam gear with the cam in the car.  In your case, I would pull the key and lightly stone the surface to remove any high spots and mike the diameter of the gear bore and shaft this will give you an idea of how tight the press fit would be.  Test the key in the bore and dress till it is tight slip fit.  


Seeds in the water galleys means mice were in the system at some time.  My guess would first be that the radiator cap was off while in storage, my second guess would be that a radiator hose was off while in storage.


I personally would be more concerned with looking at the bottom oil side of the motor.  Assembling the cam when you may have to pull it out to fix bottom end problems will be a waste of time.


Likewise I would pull at least several lifters and pushrods to see their condition.  It's an easy process. Remove the nut on top of one lifter assembly, remove the top plate and pull the pushrod up.  You can then remove the roller tappets and see their condition.  10 minutes at most to be assured that the condition that messed up rocker arm assemblies didn't damage the lifters.


Bob Engle




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Pan is off, oil evaluated, thankfully it was just black crude, no water, no tan foam or froth, very thankful!

I did find two surprised in the pan, which I will get to...


Crank, cam, etc. looked good, clean, very little crud buildup underside the engine, and I am very impressed at Buick eng/mfg standards - the welded nuts on the counterweights is very cool, and I like the fact that the oil pan is flat (don't have to deal with a half-circle crank seal, yea!).


Sump had very little debris/crud, glad to see that.


Do I need to do any further inspection/maintenance with the oil lines, sump, oil delivery system?



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