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Need advice on stripping down chassis


22touring

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     With the flex disc and bolts removed the bolt holes of the two flanges should be in alighnment and the space between the flanges should remain the same throughout a full rotation.

     The less the disc flexes the longer it will last but it's pretty forgiving of misalignment.

     If a straightedge shows that the pump mounting pad and gear housing mounting surface are in line, a gasket/shim of the same thickness as the gear housing gasket should be used between the block and water pump.

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Thanks, Nat and Minibago.  I've got everything installed, including the flexible rubber disc and distributor, so I think I'm going to unbolt the water pump from the block and see if clearance develops, and if it looks like it could use a paper gasket or two behind it.

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29C63ADD-F7B0-43B6-ADC6-1F1620505215.jpeg.5feeaedc05aa708194a22eb1ed4fc169.jpg.f16d54228694f5fd6337dd2b1078cd25.jpg

     It just dawned on me that if two of the drive holes in the flex disc were moved 28 degrees, a Myers shaft could be used on a magneto ignition.     

Easier said than done, (accurately), and less than ideal for the flex coupling but it would work.

Edited by nat
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On 6/9/2023 at 7:55 PM, nat said:

The end play is determined by the difference between impeller width and the space between the pump bearing thrust faces.

     Wrong again.  The thrust faces are in the gear housing.  

     Sorry.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I could use any tips that you Brethren could give me about how to test fit and install the front fenders on a 4-cylinder car, so they will go on smoothly and I won't scratch the paint up when I do the final installation.  Thanks.

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What are the dimensions of the front fender to frame pads on a 4-cylinder car (part no. 6818 for the 110" and 114" wheelbase cars, 18602 for the 116" wheelbase cars; p. 253 of the Master Parts List)?  Are the front fenders supposed to have a pad under them everywhere they contact the frame, or only at the points where they are bolted to the frame?  The same kind of thin-ish pad that is used under the side splash shields?

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On 7/6/2023 at 11:52 AM, nat said:

Myers shows "body to frame cushion" as 1/8" listed under "materials".

Right, Nate, I've got that kind of pad under the body, which used up all of it that Tom and Cindy Myers sent me, and they said they were going to send me all that I needed, so I think that kind of pad goes only under the body, not the fenders.

 

Also, the Master Parts List shows a separate part number for the "front fender to frame pad", as discussed above, which makes me believe that it is different from the body to frame pad.

 

My dilemma is that I have sandblasted and painted the frame rather nicely, if I do say so myself; the paint on the frame is shiny, and I don't want to bolt the fenders directly to it and mess the paint up if I am not supposed to, nor do I want to mess the paint up by gluing the wrong kind of pad onto it, and then having to remove it in order to install the correct kind.  So I'm a bit hung up on my resto until I figure this out.

 

There are rounded rivet heads on top of the frame, protruding about 3/32" proud of the top of the frame rails where the fender bolts on, so obviously you need a pad at least thick enough so that the fender flanges don't contact the rivet heads when the fenders are bolted down.

 

Anybody?

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  • 2 months later...

I got the '22 tourer pretty much back together, but I still need to paint and install the vacuum tank, horn and the tank/horn mounting bracket.DB9-17-2023.jpg.15ccd2d72cd0a7549b731fd86721f3f1.jpgThe vacuum tank linkage has both springs installed and its levers seem to click into overcenter just fine.  Neither the float nor the tank leaks, but I wonder if I need to do anything to make sure the vacuum line and vent sealing pins are sealing properly?vacuumtanktop2.jpg.efaf5295dbbfe87da559e8c8eac05817.jpgSo I guess when the vacuum tank is operating properly, you are supposed to get manifold vacuum at the fuel inlet port.  I'm trying to figure out an easy way to test this with a vacuum gauge before going on a test drive.  I guess I'll have to "T" the vacuum gauge into the line somehow.

 

I'm thinking of polishing the commutator in the horn motor with Brasso, then cleaning it up with lacquer thinner. Does that sound right?  Of course I'll also lube up the motor shaft.  Do you Brethren think I should make new paper gaskets for where the trumpet bolts to the horn body, or would that space the diaphragm out too far from the motor, so I should just put it back together with the old, torn gaskets?

horninnards1.jpg.7999589f3016e435674c94f1db3be02c.jpghorninnards2.jpg.f56b2fb0985699cd4f9b651305ab0345.jpg 

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Thanks, Doug.

 

Obviously the exterior paint is going to have to be a Work In Progress. I hope I'll be able to get it all nice and shiny someday.

 

I am a terrible painter.  Sometimes I get pretty good results just by accident, but a lot of times I get really bad results. I'm afraid that much more practice and knowledge is going to be required before I become proficient.

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  • 2 months later...

When I had my tourer apart, I found that the throwout bearing was in good mechanical condition but was really cruddy, so I soaked it in solvent and cleaned it up. Now I want to make sure that it is lubricated properly before I road test the car.  (I did clean out the tube connecting the floorboard grease cup to the bearing, which was totally blocked.)  I've cranked down on the grease cup quite a bit while watching the T.O. bearing through the cutout in the top of the bell housing, but I don't see any grease entering or coming out of it.  Would you Dodge Brethren have any suggestions for me about how to make sure the T.O. bearing is actually receiving grease? Maybe I should connect a grease gun in place of the grease cup in order to fill up the connecting tube and give the T.O. bearing its initial lubrication.

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     A grease gun will fill the tube and bearing and also be a reasonable test of the tube's integrity.  

     Not all grease is created equal.  Be sure to use some that is suited to rolling element bearings.  NLG1 or NLG2?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Brethren, if (after having the top off the car for some time, and wanting to tack the rear to the body) the bottom edge of the rear of my touring car's top doesn't reach the tack strip at the rear of the tub, what would you suspect?  (It's about 1-1/2" above the tack strip.)  Maybe the top mechanism isn't extending fully?  It seems like the middle bow might be too high, but I'm not sure, and I don't want to apply too much force to the mechanism and break it.  How can I check and correct this?  (I'll take pictures of the bow socket mechanisms inside the top, if necessary). Maybe the top fastening knobs at the tops of the windshield irons are too far forward?  I'd appreciate any advise you could give me on this.

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I did get the '22 touring car completely re-assembled, and it started right up and ran fine.  I only put gas in the vacuum tank in order to drive it into my storage building, because I'm not going to be driving it until the weather dries up.  So I'm not yet sure that the vacuum tank will suck fuel from the main tank, but I can always worry about that later.  Also, I noticed that although the starter-generator cranks the engine just fine, it is not charging the battery.  I wonder why not?

 

Now it's "on to my next restoration"!

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On 12/20/2023 at 9:01 AM, 22touring said:

Also, I noticed that although the starter-generator cranks the engine just fine, it is not charging the battery.  I wonder why not?

 

Now it's "on to my next restoration"!

Check the fuse on the starter/generator.  It's in series with the field windings and acts as a crude over-voltage cutout.

Keith

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  • 4 months later...

I had the ammeter connected backwards.

 

At first it seemed like the vacuum tank was pulling fuel from the main tank OK, so I took it for a drive even though I didn't test it long enough. The car ran fine until I came to the first hill, where it ran out of fuel. I had to re-fill the vacuum tank from a can in order to get it back home. So much for my "restoration" of the vacuum tank! It is not pulling vacuum at all. I need to take it apart and see if I can figure out what's wrong with it.  I do have the appropriate documentation.

 

Also, the external contracting bands for the service brake feel like they have grease on them, so it's not stopping very well. I'm not sure if I installed the axle felt seals the way that minibago told me to, above, so I need to pull the rear wheels, check for axle lube leaking onto the bands and drum, and install the axle felts the correct way.

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Check all fittings from the gas tank to the vacuum tank.  Any leakage at all will not let the vacuum pull fuel.  If you didn’t already use tread sealer tape. 

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