lostviking Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 I'm swapping in a Jeep 8.25 rear axle and Scarebird front disk kit on my WD15. I will have the complete drum to drum rear axle and the backing plate to drum front brakes available to anyone who wants to arrange the shipping. The front brakes have 1.25 inner and .75 outer bearings. I don't know for sure if that is the same size as 1/2 ton, or if the previous owner swapped the spindles, but that's the 1/2 ton size for the Scarebird conversion. Contact me if you need these parts. I'll have a small pallet my new rear came on for that part of things. You arrange the shipping and they are yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted September 8, 2021 Author Share Posted September 8, 2021 I purchased the Scarebird kit and have been installing it. The ID on the rotors (ones listed on their parts list) are too small to fit over the hubs they sent, so I'm machining them slightly to fit. No big deal, but something they should have known about. I bought some 5 on 4.5 to 5 on 5 wheel adapters also, so I can use the stock 3/4 ton wheels and hub caps. I end up with plenty of room inside the fenders. The wheel adapters are 1-1/4 inch thick. Still haven't mounted the calipers, not until I can install the rotors. I also purchased a Toyota master cylinder that is a bolt in. I might need to shorted the push rod (information from someone who has done this already), but that give me the double circuit master...disk front, drum rear. I'll need to do some plumbing of the lines, but we've all done that before. Can't wait to get the front done and have the truck back on it's tires again. Then, it's on to the rear axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted September 26, 2021 Author Share Posted September 26, 2021 (edited) Mainly documenting this on P15 website, but I did finally get the last part I needed to bolt the rear axle into place. I'll fine turn the u-bolts and perches, then tack weld them in place. Once their position (and the drive shaft angle) are set and secure, I'll pull it back out from under the truck to do the full welds. The rear end has been centered by measuring from the backing plates to the outer edge of the leaf springs. It's pretty close to perfect. Edited September 26, 2021 by lostviking (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted September 27, 2021 Author Share Posted September 27, 2021 (edited) Got it on it's wheels so I can now set the drive shaft angle...drive shaft is connected. I also moved the rubber to hardline transition from the old axle to the new one...it's not in this picture. Then I reconnected the rubber line to the axle. I'll have to remove that to pull the axle for final welding, but this is mockup right? Edited October 26, 2021 by lostviking typo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 (edited) I got the spring perches welded on today and bolted the axle back in. The tranny and pinion angles ended up being about 1.6 deg. Drive shaft is back in and I'm ready to go at the brake plumbing. Once that's done and I have brakes, out into the drive way so I can pull the axles and install the slightly longer studs that go in Jeeps that get the aluminum wheels. Depending on if I really need to do anything inside the differential, I should be mobile again then...and the original axle and front brakes are headed for the wrecking yard/scales. Be a shame, but I can't keep them around the house. I'm married. Almost forgot, I still need to fab shock mounts. Edited October 26, 2021 by lostviking (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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