usnavystgc Posted February 11, 2022 Author Share Posted February 11, 2022 (edited) 17 hours ago, EmTee said: So the issue was more than just brushes on the original generator? Yes, the bearings were worn and that allowed the armature to spin cockeyed which in turn ruined the armature. Edited February 11, 2022 by usnavystgc (see edit history) 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 Ouch! Glad you were able to find a rebuilt unit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted February 15, 2022 Author Share Posted February 15, 2022 I had some fun with Beaut on Sunday. One of my friends sisters came by and I was showing her the Roadie. She is in her early 60's for reference. I had a battery hooked up and I was showing her all the options on it and how they worked (pwr seats/antenna etc) and she was just astonished but, the best thing came after the tour. I then took her out to see Beaut so she could see a ;complete running and driving car. Even though she's ugly and rough, the fact that it runs and drives and nearly everything on her works is a great redeeming quality. I showed her how the car starts and how you don't need a key and she was again just astonished. Since we had her started, I told them to get in (we all sat in front of course ) and we went for a ride, Since Beaut is running and driving so well, I took them for a joy ride to include max body roll around corners, max acceleration in low and the like. With the timing set correctly, this car really gets up and goes (in low) amazingly ;well for 66 year old 2 tons of fun vehicle. They were both laughing the whole way,. I wish I would have caught in on video but, we were having too much fun to film. The experience made me realize two things 1) These fun memories are what its all about, driving with my brother, driving with these two ladies, having fun, really brings you back to a carefree time in your life. Nothing else can do that like an old car. These cars need to be driven and enjoyed. I'm thoroughly enjoying being able to drive this car despite its many flaws (rotten floorboards, rotten quarters, crunchy back seat). I know my neighbors probably hate it when I park it on the street cuz it looks like an eyesore but, if they're nice, I might even let them drive it 2) There is great wisdom in what @old-tank said in his advice to me on what to do with my two cars. For those that haven't read it, his advice was to restore the Roadie and keep Beaut running and driving. When you get sick of working on it, hop in your other running car and just enjoy the ride (not an exact quote). He also spoke of how valuable it is to have a complete car at the ready when you're restoring one. I have already reaped the benefits of that on more than one occasion. Very wise advice indeed. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted March 7, 2022 Author Share Posted March 7, 2022 (edited) Ok, well, I have taken you all's advice and I've been driving Beaut like I stole her. I must say it has been a lot of fun. I've been driving it every small trip I have (grocery shopping, Ace Hardware etc). I took two long trips (over 15 miles) with her this weekend. On the first trip, I managed to pass a modern SUV that was doing about 50 on a rural highway. I would say I cruised her about 60-65 most of the way. The second trip required interstate driving and the speed limit is 75 here. She kept up with traffic no problem. Here's the latest on how she's performing. I couldn't ask for a better ride from the old girl. The engine is running very smooth and it seems to be getting more powerful. It does not overheat any more and maintains a steady 160 deg in almost all conditions of stress. The only time it does go above 160 is when I'm sitting at idle for a long time as in a crowded drive thru. If its too long, it will vapor lock but, to prevent that, I just avoid crowded drive thru's Oil pressure also seems to have risen slightly She's running about 20 psi at speed now but still drops down to about 2--5 psi when at idle in "D" at 160. Still no knocking or ticking at any speed or RPM. I do plan to check out the spring in the oil pump to see if replacing it can make a difference. I haven't been able to locate a new spring but, one person mentioned I could put a couple washers behind the spring I have to "tighten it up". What are your thoughts on that? Suspension is good, she rides like a Buick should but, I can tell some of the rubber bushings are worn out in the steering. So she needs that too. The most pressing issue for me is, last night just before I got home, I went to make a left turn and the turn signal lever got stuck in the lower position. The turn signal is not on but, I can hear the cam that returns the lever to center clicking against it as I turn the wheel. Has anyone had this problem? No amount of force can return the lever to center. Edited March 7, 2022 by usnavystgc (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 19 minutes ago, usnavystgc said: it will vapor lock Only solution is t install an electric fuel pump near the tank. Vapor lock is not just an inconvenience, but can be a safety issue if it happens in certain locations. 22 minutes ago, usnavystgc said: The most pressing issue for me is, last night just before I got home, I went to make a left turn and the turn signal lever got stuck in the lower position. The turn signal is not on but, I can here the cam that returns the lever to center clicking against it as I turn the wheel. Has anyone had this problem? No amount of force can return the lever to center. I will look at a unit I have in storage to see if I can determine the issue...keep reminding me . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted March 7, 2022 Author Share Posted March 7, 2022 Thanks Willie, I will look into installing the electric fuel pump. Ken did tell me about that. Yes, please look at the turn signal switch for me. Thank you in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 See page 376-377 of the service manual. Maybe something in the detent or cancelling mechanism broke or something loose fell in there. Remove the steering wheel and compare. If the switch is defective, find a different steering column since replacing it would require pulling wires that you will never get back in place. Let us know what you find. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted March 8, 2022 Author Share Posted March 8, 2022 18 hours ago, old-tank said: If the switch is defective, find a different steering column since replacing it would require pulling wires that you will never get back in place. Let us know what you find. So what you're saying is, if the switch is bad I have to replace the whole steering column? That doesn't sound like any fun at all. Is there no way to pull a string up thru the column when you're pulling the wires out and use that string to pull the wires back thru? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 8, 2022 Share Posted March 8, 2022 19 minutes ago, usnavystgc said: So what you're saying is, if the switch is bad I have to replace the whole steering column? That doesn't sound like any fun at all. Is there no way to pull a string up thru the column when you're pulling the wires out and use that string to pull the wires back thru? You would have to pull the steering column anyway to replace the switch and then the swap would be straight forward. And you could replace the horn contact while it is removed. The wires are in a flat ribbon until it exits at the bottom and then it is separated and terminals are added. It can be pulled, but replacing would be like putting spaghettis back in the package after it is cooked. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted March 8, 2022 Author Share Posted March 8, 2022 1 minute ago, old-tank said: replacing would be like putting spaghettis back in the package after it is cooked. Ha ha ha, great analogy. Ok, thanks Willie. I know you know cuz you've been there/done that. I will let you know what happens. Grrrrr!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 8, 2022 Share Posted March 8, 2022 I think the wires would go back in as the original wires will be quite stiff. But that means you might wasnt to replace those original wires at this point anyway. At least we are lucky in that the 56 has a rag joint connecting the steering shaft to the steering gear. It is a tight fit to get the column through that firewall hole but not a big problem. The 2nd time I did mine I had it out in 20 minutes. What was a big hassle was that the signal lite wires go directly into the back of the fuse block. So that had to be loosened for access. If I was going to replace the signal light wires then I would just cut them off midway in their run and leave the ends in the fuse block. Would just be easier to route them correctly later on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 8, 2022 Share Posted March 8, 2022 1 hour ago, JohnD1956 said: just cut them off Please don't 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted March 8, 2022 Author Share Posted March 8, 2022 You guys are hilarious. @JohnD1956, if it comes to me pulling the column, I'm going to rely heavily on your write up/thread as well as Willie's website. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted March 9, 2022 Author Share Posted March 9, 2022 Ok, the turn signal switch issue turned out to be an easy fix. The lever plate bent up on the right side just enough to slide past the plastic stud that it moves to actuate the signal (circled in red below). I pulled the lever plate off and bent it back into position and voila, I have turn signals again. I was happy to not have to replace the steering column. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted March 15, 2022 Author Share Posted March 15, 2022 (edited) I finally got the exhaust ran all the way back yesterday. I ended up taking it to an exhaust shop and just having them finish it. $180 well spent. The car is much quieter now that it's not touching the frame and with the extra pipe behind the muffler. This car's drivability is getting better every day. I'm a big fan of a quiet exhaust. As we all know, the work is never done. Now I want to put exhaust tips on. Does anyone know of a good aftermarket solution that matches up to the cut outs of the bumper fairly well? It doesn't have to look factory original, I just want something that fits. I can do all the research and figure it out but, if someone already knows of a good solution, I'd love to hear it. Edited March 15, 2022 by usnavystgc (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted March 23, 2022 Author Share Posted March 23, 2022 I plan to embark on installing an electric assist fuel pump on Beaut this Saturday. The purpose of the install is to prevent vapor lock. To those who have done this before, is there any peculiarities to the install? My thoughts are to mount it as close to the tank as possible tapping into the fuel line where the line connects to the sending unit and mounting the pump as close to that spot as possible (that may change if I can't find a good spot nearby). One of the complaints I hear about electric fuel pumps is the noise they make. Has anyone tried using rubber insulators to limit the vibrations transmitted to the frame? Are there any problems with mounting it this way? I'm thinking of using rubber firewall grommets as the insulator. I think I have a good plan but, I figure its always wise to check with the experts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 23, 2022 Share Posted March 23, 2022 Your plan is good so far. Choice of fuel pump depends on whether you're going to use the mechanical pump to pull fuel through the electrical pump when it's not in use. Airtex sells pull through pumps and there are knockoffs that are available at stores like AutoZone too. The airtex pumps are not durable and will fail after a few years so I use a Carter pump. On that pump I had to loop around the pump with a check valve because it's not a pull through pump. Both are quiet pumps and I don't use any insulators to stop noise. The main thing you need to do is to use 10 or 12 gauge wire from the front to the back at the pump otherwise with 14 gauge wire you will lose about 2 or 3 volts while the pump is running. And maybe that's why my airtex pumps did not last. For wiring I used a switched hot lead to a toggle switch and then back to the pump with a fuse in between. If you're going to pump through the mechanical fuel pump it doesn't matter what the pressure of the electrical pump is (up to 10 psi) since the mechanical pump will regulate it back to 5 PSI. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted March 28, 2022 Author Share Posted March 28, 2022 Ok, two updates for this car. 1) The aluminum radiator and trans cooler are working very well to keep this engine cool and with a cool engine, I have good oil pressure (well, good for this car). I drove it for long drives (30+ miles) both Saturday and Sunday and the temp never exceeded 180. The weather was high 80's/low 90's here and she only heated up to 180 while waiting at a red light. Once I got rolling again, she cooled back down to 160. I'm not sure how she will do in 100 deg plus days but, she can handle low 90's. 2) The electric fuel pump install went very well. I decided to go with a pull thru pump and that seems to have solved the vapor lock problem. I'm learning when I need to use it and from what I can tell, use it at stoplights, drive thru's, stop and go traffic and when taking off from a stop. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancemb Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 That's interesting about the fuel pump. I figured this were only normally used at startup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted April 1, 2022 Author Share Posted April 1, 2022 13 hours ago, lancemb said: That's interesting about the fuel pump. I figured this were only normally used at startup? I think the difference is, I'm at 3,000 ft elevation which brings the boiling point of fuel down to about 190 or so. That combined with the AZ heat makes for an easy vapor lock condition. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 2 hours ago, usnavystgc said: brings the boiling point of fuel down to about 190 or so. Probably closer to 100* with the available winter blend fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted April 1, 2022 Author Share Posted April 1, 2022 4 minutes ago, old-tank said: Probably closer to 100* with the available winter blend fuel. Wow, that is so low. I hope the summer blend is manageable. We should be getting that blend soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted April 5, 2022 Author Share Posted April 5, 2022 Ok, the next project to tackle on this beast are the front floorboards. I'm not a welder and I haven't welded since high school shop class however, I ran into a stroke of luck. My neighbor's friend has offered the use of his Lincoln 140 Mig welder along with an inert gas bottle. I have a regulator on order and some .023 wire so, I'm going to attempt to tackle this project. I figure the floorboards are a great place to practice since my mistakes will be covered with carpet and on this beast, anything is an improvement over the current situation. i will post pics of the progress as it goes. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 6, 2022 Share Posted April 6, 2022 Go for it! As you say, floor repair is the perfect starting point. If you don't like the result, simply grind-off the boogers and do it again. I've found that half the battle is getting the wire feed speed right, but once you are 'dialed-in' it doesn't take long to get the hang of it... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted April 6, 2022 Share Posted April 6, 2022 21 hours ago, usnavystgc said: i will post pics of the progress as it goes. Looking forward to seeing those! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted April 15, 2022 Author Share Posted April 15, 2022 (edited) Well, its a sad day in Beautland. The lady who sold me the car has passed (Ida). She was 93 and she lived a full life. The week I spent trying to get Beaut in transportable condition (at her house) enabled me to get to know her well in a short time. Every day she would make her way out to the car and watch us work and tell us great stories about her life. One night I took her and some of her family out to eat at her favorite restaurant. We all got a little tipsy that night including Ida and we just had a lot of fun. Her niece was her caretaker and I maintained contact with Ida through her. I would send pics of the progress and she would share it with Ida. Her niece always told me how much Ida appreciated the updates about the car. This is one of the last pics I sent to her. Apparently her niece had it printed as pictured below. Myself and Beaut apparently also made it into the memorial service pictures. It was honor to have met her and an honor to be able to buy this car from her. I'm so glad I got to meet her and spend time with her and her family. Edited April 15, 2022 by usnavystgc (see edit history) 6 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 I imagine you brought her much more joy than you realize. She obviously had an emotional attachment to Beaut. And probably felt relieved to know it went to someone who would treat it like the gem it is. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancemb Posted April 17, 2022 Share Posted April 17, 2022 Aww man, that will make it hard to part out... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted April 17, 2022 Author Share Posted April 17, 2022 1 hour ago, lancemb said: Aww man, that will make it hard to part out... Now you see my dilemma lol 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty Heaps Posted April 18, 2022 Share Posted April 18, 2022 No dilemma here. That car is too complete to pull apart. Let’s use the parts cars that are out there and save the ones we can. More saved equals better chance for repro market. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted April 18, 2022 Author Share Posted April 18, 2022 4 hours ago, Rusty Heaps said: That car is too complete to pull apart. Well, if you run across an engine and tranny for a 56 Buick I'm def open to buying it. I will also keep my eyes open and ear listening for an opportunity to buy one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted April 19, 2022 Share Posted April 19, 2022 I have a spare Dynaflow I've been holding onto for parts. It was out of a 56 Roadmaster. I put the engine in my car when the motor went out after a rebuild and I could not get the guy the keep the Dynaflow. If you want it, you can have it for the cost of freight. My mother will be greatly appreciative. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty Heaps Posted April 19, 2022 Share Posted April 19, 2022 (edited) That’s a start! Now let’s find that engine. Edited April 19, 2022 by Rusty Heaps (see edit history) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 19, 2022 Share Posted April 19, 2022 I have some leads on engines, but you need to call me. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted April 29, 2022 Author Share Posted April 29, 2022 I want to ask you all a question about something that's always puzzled me about this car. The body tag show a color code of BBB which is castle grey however, the car does not appear gray at all. The color appears mostly greenish however it also has a bluish tint to it. I have looked in all the cracks and crevices of the car to try to find a greyish color but, the entire car is virtually the same color (doorjambs, firewall, trunk lid etc). IF this car was repainted, they must have taken out all the windows and trunk insulation and everything and they would have had to perfectly reglued the jacking instructions. I found this picture online of a 56 Buick paint code castle grey and it looks a lot like my color (greenish/bluish). And here's inside my trunk which is presumably the closest thing to the original color. But, the Hometown Buick site says this is castle grey. Is my eyesight off cuz to me, the paint swatch does not match the color on the car? What are you all's thought on this vexing mystery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 (edited) I have no direct experience with Castle Grey, but I know that looking at paint chips on a computer is basically a useless exercise because the tints are infinitely changeable based on whatever photo process was used, the color balance of your monitor, etc. From what you say about the cracks and crevices and the trunk lid, I would guess that your car is, in fact, painted Castle Grey. Edited April 29, 2022 by neil morse (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 Man…that looks like sylvan gray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 Weird…really the only thing it could be is castle gray poly on the 56 sheet. I think castle gray in 57 is a solid color and it’s like a stone gray color. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 Looks a lot like Temple Gray in 55's... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted May 5, 2022 Author Share Posted May 5, 2022 Ok all, I need some help/advice regarding setting the voltage regulator. The only check I've done is turning on the car and looking at the gauge. When all accessories are off, the gauge is about 1/8 to 1/4 inch in the green. When I turn on the lights, it goes to about 1/8 in the red. This is at about 1500+ rpm. Since I don't have a Sun Tester or an Allen tester, the procedure in the manual is difficult to translate but, I get the basics. You need to check the output of the generator voltage (in parallel) and look for 14.5 V and the output of the generator current for 30+ A (all at operating temp and 1500 rpm). Here's my question. Can I simply check the voltage at my battery at those conditions and adjust the voltage screw until I get the right reading? And... Can I disconnect the battery, hook an ammeter between the positive and negative cables (putting the ammeter in series) and adjust the current regulator for 30 A? What am I missing here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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