Help! What is going on here!

[chris_kriner]

In my attempt to find a "Parasitic draw" in my electric system. I am discovering things that are confusing me and questioning if they are right, that the last owner (Or someone did) 1st I have a Brad new Optima 6v battery....But checking if "Replacement" Generator/Alternator is charging I looked more closely......Is this a 12v !?!??!?...Then I went to check old wires that were used to hook up "Helper" fuel pump that was taken out and not currently in car. See if they were the reason for the draw. Everything I can find says this is a 12v pump too...... This isn't right is it? Could this make the engine fire differently and make it Skip and sputter? See Pics.... 2 pics are Alt and 3 are the carter pump? 

[Ray500]

Alternators are available in 6 & 12 volts, they have builtin regulators so you don't need the external one on the firewall.  If you want to keep it looking original there is an alternator built in the housing of an old generator you can purchase in different places.  If you're having electrical trouble I would suggest finding a mechanic that does auto electric to find the issues.  And yes, you're gonna need the in line fuel pump if you drive it!   The Optima battery is by far the best, won't leak acid like the old ones do.  You can get an empty battery housing to hide it to keep your car looking original.  Make sure you use heavy cables for the starter also!  00 is probably the best.  And just buy a new fuel booster pump if you're not sure the old one is any good!  As to a leak that is using battery power, it's a matter of isolating what in your electrical system is still connected without the ignition being activated.  You need to get a copy of the wiring diagram for your vehicle.  Chris @ Boos Harrel Lincoln Parts can provide you with one.  A good DC ammeter would also help to monitor the battery current that simply clamps around the battery cable lead that will show current draw.  You will need to start disconnecting battery connections once you're setup as you monitor the battery supply to see what is activated that could run down your battery with everything turned off. Don't forget to have a trickle charger on your battery when the vehicle isn't in use. Also have your battery tested.  After  couple of years or so the start to break down.  Those are the basics of the electrical systems for these cars.  Good luck!  
 

[chris_kriner]

Ray500,

I was making sure is it ok to use a 12V ( I mean its been running) And the old external fuel pump was 12V? but everything else is 6v....just don't know enough of "what is ok and what is not". Yes my manual fuel pump is new and is working good. Just cant figure out why she's still Spiting and sputtering when climbing through the gears. That's besides the unwanted draw im getting. It is on a battery tender. Have the diagram. Making sure last owner just didn't make a mistake and threw on a 12v Alt and said screw it, it works! The 12V Alt as i punched in #'s on it is from the 70's and was hooked up to the fire wall regulator.....I'm learning Ray I'm learning! lol I do have my hands (almost) on a Original 6V generator from another enthusiast.  Everything is new or rebuilt at this point....So im at a loss. With the draining battery i just have to hunt and peck like you say....I'll find it! (One day) 

[Ray500]

Hi  Chris......yes you can find 6 volt generators,they're the same as Ford used.  Lincoln put different part numbers on them.  If you've converted your electrical system to 12 volts, then you will need 12 volt battery and alternator.  You can't  just plug in a 12 volt battery and alternator as you will blow the lamps in your car and the gauges too!  You have to put a resistor going to the gauges.  There's nothing wrong with 6 volt ignitions, they have them for some 50+ years on vehicles.  Yes, 12 volts is better but keeping  your vehicle original is important too.  You can run a 6 volt starter on 12 volts, it spins a lot faster and starts the engine quicker.  But the rest of the electrical has to be converted.  Your distributor can't handle  (the coil) 12 volts directly. There are resistors on the module under the dash that feeds the distributors and drops the voltage to 3-4 volts for the distributor/coil.  So if someone has converted your electrical to 12 volts you need to make sure what you're using in alternators and batteries.  Alternators keep your battery charged with idle speeds of the engine, a generator needs higher rpm's to charge the battery.   So it looks like your vehicle needs to be looked over to see what was done to it in the electrical system before you proceed with different components in restoring those functions.  Just ask for some help locally where you're located, there are good mechanics out there who will help!   

[chris_kriner]

But if they (previous owner) Did try to convert it to 12v......This is how I bought it and received it......Why is my battery 6v and still positive grounded to the heads? Also I had the coil rebuilt by skip ....shouldn't that have been changed too handle 12v? Skip never said it was.... Everything looks Original to being a 6v System, except for the 12v Alternator and "It had" a 12v fuel pump hooked up. I took that off when I was restoring the fuel system front to back.   

[gdcont]

Is it possible they just used the alt housing from a 12V alternator and reworked the inside to 6V. Have you connected a volt meter to the battery to see what the voltage being sent to the battery is. If it's 12V it will be 13.8V to 14.2V.

I have a blade type quick disconnect for my battery, to eliminate draws on the battery and it's safer having everything disconnected when it's in my garage.  Good luck George.

[chris_kriner]

George, 

I also have a blade type disconnect. I would say no on housing. When I purchased the car it had been sitting for 20 years. Previous owner had passed and going through his folder dated in late 1990's... he had a list of things to find at swap meets for the car. Keep in mind there was no internet at the time. Its alot easier to find parts you need now, then it was back pre-internet. So I'm guessing they just put it on there bcz they couldn't find a original? Again I'm guessing. 80% is all original cloth wrapped wires...but there is new here and there... I have not tested it to see how much its putting out. Car is stored 2 hrs from me because of storage. (I have no storage here) Next time I go up I will be doing that. Just one more mystery this car throws at me. 

[Ray500]

Let us know Chris how you're doing on the car.  I don't personally like those battery disconnects, they tend to drop the voltage going to the starter.  And you need a full 6 volts to crank it properly.  In measuring the voltage on each side of such a disconnect switch you can see the drop when you're cranking the engine.   I just drop the battery terminal connector if I'm going to store mine for a time, and just leave the battery on the trickle charger.  All of my wiring is new from Rhode Island Wiring, the entire electrical system.  Their colo-coded wires match the original wiring diagram making it easier to trace things out.   A lot of that old wire had rubber covering under the cloth covering, and they stuff would dry up and break up and not safe to use.   

[19tom40]

Check the light bulbs to see if they are 12V. There should be a voltage drop device in the feed to the gauges if it is a 12V car. The ignition resisters would also be bypassed on a 12V conversion. You did not say what year car you are working on, but if it has the overdrive transmission, you must make sure that the relay and solenoid are the correct ones for the battery voltage.

 

If it was my car, I would make sure that I have all of the correct 6V items on the car. 

 

The draw that you have could very likely be coming from the alternator.

[chris_kriner]

Tom & Ray

 I have a trickle charger on her all the time. Just for that reason of something will kill the battery over night because of the draw. Only reason I have the disconnect is also because of that reason. Good idea on looking at bulbs. I am going back up this weekend, so I will check. I have made a deal with someone who has just converted their 46 Lincoln to 12v. So I am buying their 6v generator. Yes I am going to make it all period correct. I need to find someone in Western NY who knows flat heads/6v systems and especially v12 Lincolns. lol My shade tree wisdom only goes so far sometimes Hahhahah ..... Honestly I love working on her and learning. (I should of chose a cheaper hobby tho) 

Edited August 11, 2021 by chris_kriner (see edit history)

[19tom40]

Most common cause of a draw is a shorted brake light switch or a mis-adjusted master cylinder push rod, causing the brake light to be on all of the time. You might not notice a 12V light being on with a 6V battery. Next would be a shorted diode in the alternator.

 

I use a test light connected between the NEG battery post and the battery cable to trouble shoot drain's on the battery. The light will go off when the short is disconnected.

 

Here is a link to the wiring diagram to help you isolate the short.

http://www.boos-herrel.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/download4678.pdf

[chris_kriner]

Thank you Tom! I will check those out.

[Jhenry1745]

Is your clock connected and not running? The points may be closed if the clock is not winding. May be time to get it serviced. Clockworks can help you: www.clockwks.com

[19tom40]

The Early Ford V-8 Club accepts 32-53 Lincolns, Zephyrs and Continentals and there are many Regional Groups across the country. Member of Regional Groups try to help others in restoring and repairing their cars. There are 6 RG in NY and one of them should be near your location. Contact the one closest to your location and see if one of the members can help you out. Most cars of the period have simple electrical systems that are similar.

 

https://www.earlyfordv8.org/Regional_Club_Directory.cfm