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Teves ABS brake system


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Not as a system, you will have to determine what parts of it you need and then find those parts. Example of parts; accumulator, pump, wheel sensors, calipers (for rear you will need to get the ones you have rebuilt), abs computer (rarely bad).

 

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3 hours ago, Paul Fernando said:

Does anyone have for sell a new or remanufactured Teves ABS brakes system for sell?

I'm sure you mean the Hydraulic Assembly bolted to the firewall containing the major components that are the Teves ABS System.

You should be ale to purchase a remanufactured system from TCParts.com 

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3 hours ago, Hemi Dude said:

I'm sure you mean the Hydraulic Assembly bolted to the firewall containing the major components that are the Teves ABS System.

You should be ale to purchase a remanufactured system from TCParts.com 

Any idea on what they charge for a rebuilt  Teves unit? I don't see prices on their website.

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Sorry, I do not have any idea as I personally support replacing the Teves system with a normal “Power Brake system” with a Vacuum Booster and a normal Master Cylinder designed for 4 wheel Disc Brakes which is what i converted my TC to more than 10 years ago.

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2 hours ago, Hemi Dude said:

I personally support replacing the Teves system with a normal “Power Brake system” with a Vacuum Booster and a normal Master Cylinder designed for 4 wheel Disc Brakes

Thanks. I agree with that. So far no one has came produced a good write-up for installing power brakes for a Reatta like you have for the TC. A few have cobbled parts together to install vacuum brakes on a Reatta but it wasn't something I would want on my car.

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If you aren't in a hurry watch ebay. I got a rebuilt complete unit for $600. I have also gotten 4 spare wheel sensors, two spare wiring harnesses, a spare relay box with relays, another spare accumulator, and two spare ATE TEVES control computers. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am the Buick Club technical advisor for Buick Reatta..... all 1988-1990 Reattas have the TevesABS system and it was a premium system when made,  

Several auto companies used the system,  but only on top of the line cars or with special packages.    

Some things you can do to keep the Teves system in great shape. 

* Flush the brake fluid....... moisture in the fluid will rust and corrode components...that contamination can destroy "o" rings and piston seals. 

* Check the pressure switch connector for moisture.... it the pressure sw seals leak, brake fluid can change or fail the electronics and the pump will not

turn on and off at the correct pressures. 

* You can test the condition of the accumulator by measuring the drop in fluid level in the reservoir.   When the system is DISCHARGED all the fluid in the accumulator is

returned to the reservoir, so the level will be high.   Conversely, when charged the accumulator has fluid in it and the reservoir level will be lower.   The difference in the levels

tells you the accumulator condition.   On a Reatta with an OEM accumulator, when the difference in fluid levels is around 7/16 you should be shopping for a new accumulator. 

We do not know what the difference would be with a NEW OEM accumulator because we have never figured out the date codes on the accumulators ....so even with a supposedly new

accumulator it could have been sitting on a parts shelf for years and lost some of its pre-charge. 

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  • 8 months later...
On 7/16/2021 at 7:38 AM, Hemi Dude said:

Sorry, I do not have any idea as I personally support replacing the Teves system with a normal “Power Brake system” with a Vacuum Booster and a normal Master Cylinder designed for 4 wheel Disc Brakes which is what i converted my TC to more than 10 years ago.

Hey I just run across you post since I am having problems with my antilock brake unit, the one with the accumulator on it, I have added one picture here. 

My vehicle is a 1988 buic riviera T-type 2 door coupe 3.8 engine. 

I can not cough up the $1200 hundred or so that they charge for a rebuilt unit so I was thinking of replacing it with a 
" regular booster and a regular master cylinder" and just forget about the 4 electrical plugs that are plugged to the antilock unit, I don't wouldn't really mind 

if I see a bunch of red alarms as long as the vehicle stops when I step on the pedal . Lol.

can you give me your thoughts and may be tips since you already have experience dooing this.

the main problem I am thinking is if the 2 lines into the original unit will fit into the new regular master cylinder.

Thanks.

20220422_110400.jpg

20220422_110428.jpg

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You think this ABS junk is bad news?

All the early Mopar ABS units are impossible to get parts for

 

especially these:

 

1988-93 Chrysler & Imperial

Maserati TC

1991-93 Daytona and Lebaron

 

good luck finding replacement parts that are new

 

 

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