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Derusting parts


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20210709_154355.jpg.0884ac40628b856c19f12d4b48c1c230.jpg20210709_154336.jpg.1db74328338926b9029896696330b3bc.jpg20210709_154154.jpg.a023088522f49fda1d8a4c78d584559d.jpg20210709_154425.jpg.efe981dc69050323767a0d72c95f6248.jpgTired of grinding away on the front bumper brackets for my '39 Spec, I decided to test what I saw on my favorite post secondary education site, you tube. Electrolysis! I really like the KISS principal! Keep it simple _____me! Here are some pix of the setup. Working operating an electrical powerplant prior to retiring, I had a forced education for a few years. Fact #1, pure water wont conduct electricity! Important to make a huge boiler & pipes last. When you do electrolysis you need to make the water "dirty", Arm & Hammer  super washing soda, laundry booster crystals enhances conductivity in the water.  Next hook a battery charger posite cable to a 'stick' of ferrous(steel) metal in one side of a plastic(non-conductive) container with water & correct measure of a&h soda. Place part in liquid, not touching piece with positive wire and hook negative wire to cleaned spot(conductive) on part to be derusted. Turn on charger and wait(HARD PART!) PIX SHOW EXTREMELY COMPLEX HOOK-UP! matter of perspective, mine,duh. Hee hee. Should tried this long ago! Part of what the ol' man said, "work smarter, not harder!" Wad dat dummy mean anyway? Details to follow. Bumper brkt in photo now in solution, see orange  rust ring at edge of solution coming off brkt.

Edited by 2carb40 (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

20210709_191021.jpg.4ecc4f426309728737efd9066d948e77.jpgOh yeah, forgot, box of A&H was 2.88 at grocery store! I know, I know, that just knocked it right out of most folks budget,DANG! Add 1-1/4 cup to the 20+gals of water(no, it doesnt help you remember to post things initially). Just a few hours in & looks like swamp on top of solution! Rust never sleeps, but electrolysis doesnt either, yay!

Edited by 2carb40 (see edit history)
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I will jump in here with a few points...  This is an excellent way to derust parts. This method is well discussed in various places on the internet. My first are a couple of safety points. Only do this in a well ventilated area! The bubbles that form during the process are hydrogen gas and are flammable. Outside is best, but an open garage/shop door works. Next for safety is to avoid any stainless steel in this process. Some grades of stainless steel contain the metal chromium, and during electrolysis chromium compounds may be released into the solution. Chromium compounds are extremely poisonous and should be avoided at all costs!!

Now for simple things...  You can also use baking soda to make the solution. It is not as good, but almost everyone has some on hand to try. Next is the dc power for the process. If you keep the current low the process will not build as much residue to clean off. The drawback is it takes longer to defust. You can adjust the current by using a smaller anode piece, lowering the concentration of the solution or lowering the voltage if you have a variable power supply or a combination of these.

One last very good thing about this method is that is does absolutely NO damage to the part you are cleaning. It does not attack the base metal at all. You can leave the part in the solution with the power on for as long as the part is covered with the solution and it will do no harm!

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9 hours ago, 37_Roadmaster_C said:

I will jump in here with a few points...  This is an excellent way to derust parts. This method is well discussed in various places on the internet. My first are a couple of safety points. Only do this in a well ventilated area! The bubbles that form during the process are hydrogen gas and are flammable. Outside is best, but an open garage/shop door works. Next for safety is to avoid any stainless steel in this process. Some grades of stainless steel contain the metal chromium, and during electrolysis chromium compounds may be released into the solution. Chromium compounds are extremely poisonous and should be avoided at all costs!!

Now for simple things...  You can also use baking soda to make the solution. It is not as good, but almost everyone has some on hand to try. Next is the dc power for the process. If you keep the current low the process will not build as much residue to clean off. The drawback is it takes longer to defust. You can adjust the current by using a smaller anode piece, lowering the concentration of the solution or lowering the voltage if you have a variable power supply or a combination of these.

One last very good thing about this method is that is does absolutely NO damage to the part you are cleaning. It does not attack the base metal at all. You can leave the part in the solution with the power on for as long as the part is covered with the solution and it will do no harm!

Thanx for adding that valuble safety info! The caveat about stainless and chromium is new to me and valuble to anyone using this process! My setup is outside garage and I dont smoke, so fire danger from the escaping gas is minimized! Too bad Im not equipped to capture and fuel a vehicle when Im essentially running a hydrogen generator!

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Great work Greg!  I look forward to seeing the finished product.  Another point about your bumper bracket is that no amount of wirebrushing will get the rust out from between the joined metal pieces.  If fluid flow and electrolysis works well, that area will be cleaned as well.  

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The two parts being riveted together was a main reason why I decided to use this process and the fact that I lost patience grinding away on it. Ive wanted to try this process for a while now. Seemed to be to good to be true! Not! Already took a bunch of thick hardened coating off. Details to follow.

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I have also had really good luck using a product called Evaporust. It is water soluble takes  away rust with out running plastic , etc. It is not cheap, but it is safe to use and you can just pour it down the drain when finished with it as it is harmless.

 

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2 hours ago, Buick35 said:

I found that muratic acid works real well on small parts, just be careful of the fumes.


 

It will dissolve the part, burn your lungs, skin, and is very hazardous...........it’s a ridiculous statement. And very dangerous.

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On 7/17/2021 at 1:14 PM, edinmass said:


 

It will dissolve the part, burn your lungs, skin, and is very hazardous...........it’s a ridiculous statement. And very dangerous.

 

Don't breathe the fumes, wear gloves, and it won't dissolve the part if you take it out and rinse it off as soon as the rust is gone (usually under a minute). Lots of people use it all the time, and nobody gets hurt if they know what they're doing. Add acid to water, don't add water to acid, and always have a running hose next to you when working with muriatic. Only use outdoors and wear protection.

 

Welding is dangerous, a grinding wheel is dangerous, fire is dangerous, driving a car is dangerous, and a lathe machine is the most dangerous thing of all. Don't sue this message board if you are hurt by any dangerous thing.

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  • 3 weeks later...

That is a great way to derust. Another way to derust and very simple is use a mixture of 1 part Molasses and 4 parts of water. Depending how rusty it is, one day to 3 days soaking in the mixture. You can get it from a stock feed agent because it is used to feed cows. 

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8 hours ago, Henri Hendriksen said:

That is a great way to derust. Another way to derust and very simple is use a mixture of 1 part Molasses and 4 parts of water. Depending how rusty it is, one day to 3 days soaking in the mixture. You can get it from a stock feed agent because it is used to feed cows. 

 

Molasses takes longer. It has to turn to vinegar before it does anything. Figure a week.

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Reading this thread and others I tried the molasses and it worked great. As Morgan said it takes awhile to get started.

 

Any thoughts on how long it will last and do you just add more molasses and water to the mix after it weakens?

 

Thanks

 

Dave

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I kept using a large molasses tank for a couple of years without any recharge.  It just got slower and slower.  I took the pieces out from time to time , basted them with high pressure water, gave them a wire brush scrub and put them back.  Eventually all rust was gone.  Needless to say I wasn't waiting on those parts.  Its an excellent and cheap process, if you are not in a hurry.

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