robert b Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 That hole has been caused by fin vibration over the years because the solder joint between the tube and fin has decayed, common to see in 100 plus year old radiators . the solder decay ( called bloom )is a oxidation of lead/tin when exposed to unfavorable conditions , ie bugs ,salt, rain ,dust , mud , air , just about every thing has an effect after a time , but saying that a 100 plus years is bloody good work any way for what they have to do . 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 Which is why most old tube and fin radiators have lost their cooling ability, the fins are loose from the tubes which cuts down on heat transfer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted November 24, 2021 Author Share Posted November 24, 2021 Got the body off today so I can get some satin black onto all the chassis and running gear. I’ll get the wheels off and pulled apart tomorrow also. I think there was a recent post about getting the rear wheels off. I’ll go back and Check it out. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted November 24, 2021 Share Posted November 24, 2021 Nice, that will look soo much better! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted November 24, 2021 Author Share Posted November 24, 2021 12 minutes ago, RichBad said: Nice, that will look soo much better! Yer mate it will. His dad has done a tremendous job of restoring it from what it was. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted November 25, 2021 Author Share Posted November 25, 2021 Chassis all painted today I’ll try start getting it all back together tomorrow with a bit of luck. Pulled all the wheels apart and painted all the hubs and brake drums. Just need to pull all the tyres off again now and paint the rims. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted December 8, 2021 Author Share Posted December 8, 2021 The body is back on and it’s all going back together. Will be fitting the floor and electrical in the next few days. I have to make 2 new hood bows as there is 2 that have broken. The paint work has come up nicely with a bit of a polish. Does anyone know of or have any bonnet catches that they would like to sell. A pic is below of the ones I need. I need 2 but would get away with one. Thanks fellas. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted December 8, 2021 Share Posted December 8, 2021 Ouch on the thumb.... I have a finger that looked like that a few months ago. However, the car looks good so I suspect all worth it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted December 8, 2021 Share Posted December 8, 2021 Me too, re the thumb! 😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted December 9, 2021 Author Share Posted December 9, 2021 14 hours ago, JACK M said: Ouch on the thumb.... I have a finger that looked like that a few months ago. However, the car looks good so I suspect all worth it. 9 hours ago, Mark Gregush said: Me too, re the thumb! 😁 Yeah I jammed my thumb on the inside of the sand blasting cabinet when I was sliding something really big and heavy out. It hurt a little. 🥴 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted December 14, 2021 Author Share Posted December 14, 2021 Made a bit more progress on the tourer over the weekend. Laminated up a couple of new hood bows as 2 of the old ones broke. I’ve figured out the hood irons we have aren’t the correct ones for this car but we will be able to make them work. It’s a bit of a painful job fitting the hood bows in and out a hundred times but I got there in the end. Also picked up the windscreen glass today and fitted it. I stained and clear coated all the bows this afternoon ready for final fitting tomorrow. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted December 14, 2021 Share Posted December 14, 2021 This is turning out nice Matt, good job. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted December 15, 2021 Share Posted December 15, 2021 Yes, very nice. I'd be interested on any details you can share about laminating the bows. How thick are the plys? What kind of glue did you use? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted December 15, 2021 Author Share Posted December 15, 2021 (edited) Hi Mike I use 3mm marine ply and run the ply grain 90d to each other on each layer. I used about 10-11 layers for the bows. I weld some 2mm steel to my bench as the former and do it about 4” high so I end up with 2 bows from the one form up. I wet the corners to be bent first just to soften the grain a little. I use the foaming poly urethane wood glue. got the bows stained and clear coated today. Edited December 15, 2021 by Mattml430 (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 She’s of the the upholsterer tomorrow for the hood to be made and when it’s finished I’ve just got a few little jobs to to. Had it running today for half an hour or so and took it for a little drive around our streets. Went quite well after the brakes had bedded themselves in. what do you guys think about the profile I’ve got on the roof line , does it look correct. All ready to load up tomorrow. It seems to be starting well now. I can get it to start quicker with the crank handle than the starter though. I also seem to be blowing the fuse in the starter generator as soon as the regulator kicks in I think. The car is a positive earth. Any ideas of what to look at. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 The car should be negative earth Matt 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 This is my 1919 Touring so your roof line look okay I think. Don’t forget the cathedral windows. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 I think the roof line looks right. Thanks for the info on the bows. Are you able to buy 3 mm (approx. 1/8") marine plywood? (I've never seen it that thin). Or is it some other kind of treated wood and you plane it down to thickness? It looks like your outermost ply is oriented with grain along the bow. The 90 degree ply would be very short along the grain and almost falling apart, I think. Do I understand correctly? I like the idea of welding the forms to the table! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 7 hours ago, Minibago said: The car should be negative earth Matt That’s interesting because Ron said the same thing. The car came to me like that so I better change it over. Could be why the fuse is blowing then. Ron gave me the chassis number when it change but I couldn’t find the chassis number to know any difference. Thanks guys. 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 7 hours ago, Minibago said: This is my 1919 Touring so your roof line look okay I think. Don’t forget the cathedral windows. Thanks Nigal great pictures and I’ve got the pattern tapped to the back seat for him. 2 hours ago, MikeC5 said: I think the roof line looks right. Thanks for the info on the bows. Are you able to buy 3 mm (approx. 1/8") marine plywood? (I've never seen it that thin). Or is it some other kind of treated wood and you plane it down to thickness? It looks like your outermost ply is oriented with grain along the bow. The 90 degree ply would be very short along the grain and almost falling apart, I think. Do I understand correctly? I like the idea of welding the forms to the table! 3mm is easy enough to get normally, and yes I run the 2 outer ply’s length ways so I looks more like real timber. You do need to wet the ply so it bends nicely. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 Matt, the easy way to remember is if the horn button is on the door it's negative. If on the steering wheel it's positive. NOT absolute but close. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 Chassis number on your 18 will be on the cross rail just in front of the front seat on the righthand side. Not very deep. A good sandblast would obliterate it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 No horn at all on this one yet Doug. I swapped the leads over and no fuse blowing now but I’m not sure yet if it’s charging I haven’t checked. Couldn’t find any trace of a number. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted December 17, 2021 Share Posted December 17, 2021 https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/gunsmithing/raising-serial-number-203569/ 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted December 17, 2021 Share Posted December 17, 2021 Thanks Mark. A most enlightening thread. Much appreciated. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted December 19, 2021 Share Posted December 19, 2021 Thanks for the tips on making laminated bows. Good for future reference. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willy Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 I'm restoring a Dodge Brothers tourer - right now doing the starter-generator, and I didn't take enough photos - does anybody have a diagram of where the washers all go? I only want to take this apart once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 Willy, It is best to ask your question starting a new thread to avoid confusion. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted January 3, 2022 Author Share Posted January 3, 2022 (edited) 3 hours ago, Willy said: I'm restoring a Dodge Brothers tourer - right now doing the starter-generator, and I didn't take enough photos - does anybody have a diagram of where the washers all go? I only want to take this apart once. This will show you the parts. Their position on the page is most likely the order they go in. Edited January 3, 2022 by Mattml430 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willy Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 Mini ago, you're right. I just jumped in because there were so many folks on this thread knowledgeable about the 1918. I learned a ton of information from this thread. I apologize for not starting a new thread. Willy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted January 6, 2022 Author Share Posted January 6, 2022 Picked up the Dodge from Grant today. he’s done a tremendous job on the top it looks great. He did cathedral windows all round which didn’t grab us at all but apparently that’s how they were. I’ve never seen one like that before only on the back. Not grant’s fault it was mine for not understanding it completely. I just thought the sides would be just rectangle. He is going to change the sides for us to rectangle sides as it’s not really safe to drive the way it is, especially in rain when they would only ever be on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted January 6, 2022 Share Posted January 6, 2022 The top looks really great, I love the colour, the cathedral windows on the hood and side curtains are quite correct for 1918. On the subject of correct, you are too, it is almost impossible to drive safely with the side curtains on in the rain. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted January 6, 2022 Author Share Posted January 6, 2022 15 minutes ago, Minibago said: The top looks really great, I love the colour, the cathedral windows on the hood and side curtains are quite correct for 1918. On the subject of correct, you are too, it is almost impossible to drive safely with the side curtains on in the rain. Thanks Nigal I was hoping you would chime in on this one. Yes I think we have to have a bit of safety first with some things these days with our traffic. I had no idea they went all the way around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted January 6, 2022 Share Posted January 6, 2022 My experience was in a country town heading off to the Sunday morning rally start point, back streets, very wide, quite steep, down hill, pouring with rain, it looked like I was on the main road, I wasn’t. I missed the cross street stop sign (wide road) (Trees) until very late, braking locked the wheels and we sailed through the intersection. Fortunately there was no traffic but we now “Never” travel with the side screens fitted. The wind wings make all the difference in helping deflect any rain. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted January 6, 2022 Share Posted January 6, 2022 The top color matches the interior very well. I don't think it was supposed to be safe with the side curtains on. Besides you don't have a windshield wiper anyway. It's about tradition. It's supposed to look cool, which it does. Next you Aussies will be changing hardware to make it easier to assemble. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted January 6, 2022 Share Posted January 6, 2022 They really did a beautiful job on the top! I didn't know the side curtains were originally cathedral-style. They do look cool but it does appear they would severely restrict visibility. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted January 12, 2022 Author Share Posted January 12, 2022 I’ve got around to painting the rims black now, but discovered the rim locks were all in need of repairs. I made some new ones similar and replaced them all. Rims look nicer painted black. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 (edited) Looks like at lest a couple of those rims are for steel felloe wheels. That closes rim, the two holes on the side, that is how to tell Canadian rims from USA rims. US rims don't have them. Canadian rims used that mouse trap rim spreader. Oh to add, that is a really great repair job on those latches. Edited January 13, 2022 by Mark Gregush (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 I believe in 1918 all cars had 24 inch wheels and all felloes were steel. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 (edited) For US cars, the Master parts list show the 2ed series Kelsey steel felloe wheels starting between cars number 434412 and 436468 which would be between 20 Jan and 11 Feb 1920. For Canadian built cars, there could be different introduction dates. In the Model T world, there were some things that were introduced on cars built in Canada before the US cars. My 1920 DB, built around Feb 1920, would have had those wheels and rims. Currently, it has a set of Dodge wood felloe wheels and rims mounted, which would be about a month or two wrong. If they are in good shape and roll down the road straight, that would work for me and damn anyone that says different. Edited January 13, 2022 by Mark Gregush (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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