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1960 Questions


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I have started a "Me and My Buick" thread for my new 60 LeSabre but figured this would be a better forum for technical questions and issues, please correct me if that is wrong. 

 

My first question is about the thin pillar big window two door hardtop style on this car which I assume is essentially the same for 59-60 Buicks, Chevrolets, Pontiacs, Oldsmobiles and Cadillacs. I have seen this style referred to as a Bubble Top or Bubbletop in countless magazine articles, forums and Facebook posts. When I first got this car I used "Bubbletop" in its description on a 1960 Buick specific Facebook group and immediately got some rather firm pushback telling me the term was not correct for 59-60 but only for 61-62 Buicks and Chevs. Is this true and if so why does it appear be such a hot button?

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I've never heard the term applied to a 59-60, but I don't think you are entirely incorrect.  As for why people get upset over such a small nomenclature?  your guess is as good as anyone else's...I guess..  lol.. 

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Personally I never understood the term for any of the makes during these years. It's a 2 door coupe to me.  But, don't sweat it as someone usually has something to say about everything. Right or wrong.  Enjoy your new to you Buick. She's a very nice 2 door coupe, bubble top, no post sedan thingy. 

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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After looking at the 1960 Buick brochure at www.eatondetroitspring.com/findmyvehicle, then the Links at the far right of that area), the normal 2-dr roof was what's on the car you have, whether it was a sedan or hardtop.  I can see how some might call it "Thin Pillar", but it was the only "pillar" in 1960.

 

Other 1960 GM cars had the normal "thick pillar" C-pillar tops, by comparison.  When the 1961 Chevy and Pontiac 2-dr models came out, they had both the normal 2-dr "thick pillar" hardtop and the "Bubbletop" 2-drs, mostly to counter the Ford Starliner 2-drs of 1960, which were designed for NASCAR racing adventures.  So a '61 Chevy Bubbletop 409 would have been "a race car" of sorts, or at least might have been.

 

That 1960 sales brochure is pretty neat with lots of great information/explanations in it.

 

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

Edited by NTX5467 (see edit history)
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OK, next question. Hopefully next week I will be jacking up the car and pulling all the wheels for an undercarriage inspection. The shop manual tells me the car uses wheel bolts rather than studs/nuts and also that the front and rear bolts are different lengths. Question is are all the bolts right hand thread? And are both front spindle nuts also right hand thread? I ask because my 63 Olds had left hand thread fasteners on the left side of the vehicle. Also, was 1960 the last year for using bolts?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well that last question went nowhere, lets try again. When I was under the hood of my car last Thursday I noticed the stock sediment bowl fuel filter is gone and there is just a rubber line from the fuel pump to the carb. Then I looked under the car and found there is NO fuel filter anywhere. I obviously need to fix this fast, my short term will be to put an inline filter into the line between the FP and carb. My first question is: is that line 5/16" or 3/8" in diameter?

 

Once the short term is done my longer term goal will be to put the stock filter back - are these available as reproduction units and if so are they of good quality and safe?

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Nice looking car. Has the engine been rebuilt? That paint looks really fresh. Unless you want to go full original, a standard inline fuel filter should do the trick. 

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i belive that 60 is the last year for bolts on the wheels as also for the pedal start and torque tube

on all my cars i have an inline filter before the fuel pump after the metal line in the short rubber hose in the engine compartment.

temporarilly i would also put one between the fuel pumpand carb but just be aware that not being high up in the air stream from the fan it might also contribute to vapor lock

i dont belive the filter housing is reproduced but there should be some available on ebay

it also looks like you might be missing the bracket for the fuel filter and possibly a vaccuum switch if you have a 2 prong flat plug just hanging out, not sure if the lesabre smaller motor had this.

hope this helps

Marty

 

 

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1 hour ago, MRJBUICK said:

i would also put one between the fuel pumpand carb but just be aware that not being high up in the air stream from the fan it might also contribute to vapor lock

Vapor lock occurs on the suction side of the fuel pump.  Any pump will push fuel and any vapor in the line.

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22 hours ago, Smartin said:

Fuel line is 5/16.  I don't remember off hand if one side of the car is LH lugs or not.  Usually the bolts have a large L stamped on the head if so.  And the front bolts are longer because of the aluminum drums.

Thanks. I found out that all of the lug bolts are right hand thread BUT the left side spindle nut is left hand thread.

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21 hours ago, drhach said:

Nice looking car. Has the engine been rebuilt? That paint looks really fresh. Unless you want to go full original, a standard inline fuel filter should do the trick. 

Thanks. The engine paint was done by the dealer I bought it from, still burning off. The air cleaner and valve covers had been chrome plated so they blasted and repainted them plus a pretty good quick detail under the hood. The car shows 94,000 miles but the engine runs very well, smooth at low idle, no sign of smoke or blow-by - I do not know if it has been worked on. I will be doing a compression check sometime in the future so we will see.

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I like the chromed stock parts. Very cool. If you get the chance, I would check the timing chain gear. My 62 had 136K+ on it when I took it out for a rebuild. Everything internally looked great except for the timing chain. It had nylon teeth on the big gear and they were all gone (and sitting in the bottom of the oil pan). It was  sticking time bomb. I probably could have replaced that alone and gotten many more miles out of the engine. 

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The original glass filter bowl and housing I don't believe are reproduced.  I say this because the housing accommodates a bracket that supports the assembly. New bowls and housing are available but do not have the tapped hole to bolt on the bracket. Not to mention the bracket. It could be made however.  I suspect a forum member my have one to sell. 

WP_20170405_004.jpg

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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If I may ask, what did the dealer do to the brake system? I ask for two reasons.  There is a rubber brake hose where the torque tube meets the transmission that is often overlooked.  Also, the brake booster I see is painted black. Did the dealer work on your booster? Did the dealer do anything with the u-joint inside the torque tube? 

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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15 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:

The original glass filter bowl and housing I don't believe are reproduced.  I say this because the housing accommodates a bracket that supports the assembly. New bowls and housing are available but do not have the tapped hole to bolt on the bracket. Not to mention the bracket. It could be made however.  I suspect a forum member my have one to sell. 

WP_20170405_004.jpg

I am pretty sure I have the bracket which was in the glovebox. At this time I'm just going to add an inline filter.

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On 7/12/2021 at 6:19 PM, old-tank said:

Vapor lock occurs on the suction side of the fuel pump.  Any pump will push fuel and any vapor in the line.

I stand corrected Thank You

but then could we consider fuel percolation lol

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