1941 versus 1947-48.

[Streamline Smitten]

I have mentioned I really do like the streamline styling of the Zephyr, and think I am targeting a 41 4-door but am considering a ’47-’48 Continental anyway.  I have some questions about the potential differences between a ’41 and a ’47-’48.

 

I know it is recommended that when rebuilding an HV-12 that the oil pump be replaced with an 8EL Mercury pump.  However, I read that Lincoln changed the oil pump in 1947.  Is that oil pump good enough that it isn’t really necessary to convert to an 8EL?

 

I read that with the 1946-48 292ci, Lincoln introduced a new crankshaft with larger rod bearing journals.  Does that crankshaft eliminate the need for an 8EL oil pump?

 

Is it almost necessitated that the original radiator be replaced (regardless of year) with one having a larger core in order for the engine to run at an acceptable temperature?  I could conceivably be driving it in 95-degree weather (even a little bit of stop-and-go) and don’t want to have overheating issues.

 

If I go with a ’47-’48 Continental I am going to get power windows, as they’re standard.  Here in Texas, it is paramount that you be able to roll down the windows in the summer in a car without AC.  So just how reliable is the power window system if it’s been rebuilt and given proper maintenance?

[19tom40]

I am going to give you my opinion about your questions.

 

The 41 may have a Columbia or an overdrive. I prefer the reliability of the overdrive transmission.

Any oil pump provided by Ford as original equipment is adequate ti oil the engine.

A clean block and radiator should cool your engine in light traffic or road conditions.

The hydraulic power windows are more reliable than the electric motor type. If your pump is rebuilt, the system flushed and refilled with hydraulic fluid and the wiring replaced with a newer harness, you should have no or little problems with the windows.

[abelincoln]

Several recommend the Melling M-15 high volume oil pump.  I put one in my 48.  Had to get a separate Speedway pick-up tube to avoid interference with the rear crank throw.  Otherwise, seems to give OK pressure.  If you don't care about being bone stock, you can get higher compression aluminum heads, multi-carb intake, and headers for extra oomph,  Some of us also replace hydraulic lifters with an Isky re-grind cam and solid adjustable lifters.  Also recommended is a crankcase vent or PCV valve.

Abe

[47clubcoup]

47 club coupe here, my radiator was trashed inside so i had a truck radiator cut down to fit the old frame. works great and it looks original and is not the wrong material.