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My Car Trailer needs replacement........


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...so where are you guys dealing for new ones now. Any suggestions for lengths, if you are pulling with just a regular 2 wheel driver vehicle (PU)? I started with a 24 footer, then bought a used 30 footer, 2 axle. It loves to wag its tail. (needs a dually) Open for suggestions.  "Moderators, you can move this to another thread if you like"!

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I can't help you on sources, Wayne.  However, one of our

AACA newsletter contributors wrote an excellent, thorough

article on car trailers--an article helpful even to those who

already owned one.  It pointed out numerous items to

consider including in your purchase--items which some may

overlook.  If you think it could be helpful, I could e-mail you

a copy if you P. M. me.

Edited by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)
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gooseneck trailer will eliminate swaying.... open or closed hauling... you are hauling valuable eguipment/vehicles.... you will need a 3/4 ton p/u at minimum.. I would not haul more than 5000 gvw on a bumper hitch trailer.... just me sayin!

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Start with your tow vehicle.

Figure out the tow capacity.

Multiply that times 85%.

That is the gross combined weight 

of trailer & vehicle(s) you can safely tow.

 

Deduct the curb weight of the vehicle(s)

you plan to transport in or on the trailer.

 

What you are left with is the empty

curb weight of the trailer you can 

safely tow.

 

 

Jim

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I think you have to consider what you are towing in terms of what will go in the trailer. One car? Two. Big wide 60s car? Brass car needing extra height? Do you own a bit of everything and need flexibility? Then, you must answer what you do use to tow or what you will be using to tow. Build or buy a trailer around those specifications and go from there.  Beck's trailers in St. Johns Michigan has a pretty big selection. My first trailer was an Atlas and I had very good luck with it.  Probably nothing you didn't know. Good luck!

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1 hour ago, john hess said:

gooseneck trailer will eliminate swaying.... open or closed hauling... you are hauling valuable eguipment/vehicles.... you will need a 3/4 ton p/u at minimum.. I would not haul more than 5000 gvw on a bumper hitch trailer.... just me sayin!

*

Thanks John, but not buying another tow vehicle. My suburban is needed for my wife's medical needs. Thanks though.

 

"I think you have to consider what you are towing in terms of what will go in the trailer. One car? Two. Big wide 60s car? Brass car needing extra height? Do you own a bit of everything and need flexibility?"

 

A bit of everything EricMac. A standard 24 footer will work, although it does need a winch and 16 inch wheels for safety.

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1 hour ago, mike6024 said:

I would think if you want specific recommendation, should specify weight of vehicle being hauled. Why did you go from a 24 foot to a 30 foot?

I bought this used 30 footer from a race guy, had lots of cabinets, winch, tie down equipment, 16 inch wheels, (no more blow outs, and the price? $10,000. I have had it for about 6 years, but it needs work and you know how car people are. NEED A NEW ONE! :-)

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Before COVID-19 ….

 

I ordered a new custom

enclosed car hauler trailer.

 

I cancelled my order after 7 months 

of waiting - I replaced my wood floor

and epoxy coated it - then painted the

interior walls.

 

 

Jim

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One piece of advice I can give is to get a trailer longer than you need for the longest car you expect to haul so that you have room to move it back and forth to get the correct tongue weight.  I have a tongue weight scale built into my hitch, by weigh safe, sometimes moving the car a couple inches makes a big difference in how it tows.  If you don't have any room for back and forth you are stuck with one position which may not yield the best towing conditions.  

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I;ve had a steel flatbed car trailer, a 20 Ft. enclosed Horton Hauler and a Aluma flatbed aluminum car trailer.

My fsavorite is the 1200 lb Aluma with 2 Dexter torque flex axles.   Tows better, is light and easy to tow,

7000 lb capacity less itls own weirgh allows me to tow most everything up to 5800 lb.  However most of

vehicles are under 4000 lb and I tow woth a motor home or a GMC Yukon.

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Something else to keep in mind, as was pointed out about the delay in getting a new trailer, dont sell yours until you have a replacement. And, the one you have may not be as bad as you think it is. Even old trailers still command a premium.

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I stumbled on my enclosed trailer when I acquired to ask a friend about how his handled. He told me he was considering selling it as he no longer needed the extra height. I bought it. It is a 24 footer and has 8 and 1/2 foot of ceiling. My 1915 Buick roadster tows fine in it behind the Suburban's I have owned, and still own. Moved a Rolls Royce 20/25 with it last weekend and that car is on the heavy side. Biggest thing is that it is a big wind sail. On a windy day you can feel the wind pushing on it. Also, when tractor trailers pass you can feel the air pushing and pulling on it. The lower you can get away with a ceiling height, the better. Me, being a brass era fan, I need the height and like the fact I can put my car in with the top up. Dandy Dave!   

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I know of brass era car owners that had to have the windshields, tops and bows replaced as a result of not putting the top down before driving into their low roofed trailer during a rain storm. Measure your requirements, don't just guess!

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If you like your 30 ft trailer why not fix the defects unless they are terminal?  The 20 ft enclosed trailer that came with Al Edmonds  32 Cadillac was built in 1984 and still works fine. (All Metal) My only complaint is the 15 in wheels.  Only used to haul small cars like my Corvette's and Jags now.

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On 6/30/2021 at 7:25 AM, Dandy Dave said:

....... On a windy day you can feel the wind pushing on it. Also, when tractor trailers pass you can feel the air pushing and pulling on it. The lower you can get away with a ceiling height, the better. Me, being a brass era fan, I need the height and like the fact I can put my car in with the top up. Dandy Dave!   

*

And there you go Dandy, exactly what happens with my trailer. The solution? Either a dually tow vehicle or it should have had 3 axles. At any rate, I just got back from Nashville moving my son's furnature (YA, I have an empty bedroom and more food in my frig) and you get used to the wagging after a while. When it gets real bad from big trucks, I hit the gas hard which straightens her out. 

 

Like someone else said, I guess i'll repair the problem areas and keep what I have.

Thanks so much for all of the info guys. Enjoy your summer, maybe see you in Oklahoma in the Fall?

 

Wayne

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Curiosity, do you have an anit sway/equalizer hitch ?  Not sure exactly what they are called just know what they look like. My brother pulled his toy hauler once, then had one installed on his truck. Made a big difference.

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17 minutes ago, TAKerry said:

Curiosity, do you have an anit sway/equalizer hitch ?  Not sure exactly what they are called just know what they look like. My brother pulled his toy hauler once, then had one installed on his truck. Made a big difference.

*

Good question T A,

 

Yes I have a equalizer hitch. I own a 2015 Chevy Suburban. It has a automatic air shock system which raises the height of the vehicle. I used the "bars" at first, then tried it about 3 trips without them, as the shocks raised the vehicle. Of course the shocks will not transfer weights. On this trip from Virginia to Nashville and back I decided to use the "bars' again. I did not see much difference, but then again, it was just furnature, not a 3500 pound automobile inside.

 

So, to wrap things up, I could get a new trailer, buy a new dually, or pay someone else to move my junk, uh, my very nice top quality automobiles. I guess I'll stick with what I have, too tight to do anything else, plus I don't travel as much as I used to.

 

"Show scene from Blazing Saddles"...."I'm tired, so tired....Madeline Kahn" :-)

Thanks!

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6 hours ago, TAKerry said:

Curiosity, do you have an anit sway/equalizer hitch ?  Not sure exactly what they are called just know what they look like. My brother pulled his toy hauler once, then had one installed on his truck. Made a big difference.

 

 

5 hours ago, R W Burgess said:

Yes I have a equalizer hitch.

 

The anti sway bars are a different thing than the weight distributing set up.

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3 hours ago, JACK M said:

 

 

 

The anti sway bars are a different thing than the weight distributing set up.

*

The only sway bars I have seen are very small, similar to ones you see on some steering tie rods. I doubt they would do much good on a 30 foot car trailer when a 45 foot semi box trailer blows by you. 

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I am considering a Montrose aluminum trailer made in Michigan. They are lightweight and the front lifts up like snowmobile trailer. Looking at 20ft with extra ht for brass cars so I don’t have to put the top down. Also want to tow a 36 Ford or a 57 TBird which I can not do now with a 7/17 cargo trailer. The Montrose this size weighs about 2500lbs and are only 8 ft width which would mean I could tow my 1911 Ford and small 1912 Buick’s behind my 96 Roadmaster with the tow package occasionally. Most of the towing would be with a Class C motorhome with the V10. Any have any experience with Montrose?

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Buy a 24 foot unit.....anything less is a very hard sell later on. Also a 80 inch door height, or you can’t get a decent brass car in it.

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11 hours ago, tomcarnut said:

I am considering a Montrose aluminum trailer made in Michigan. They are lightweight and the front lifts up like snowmobile trailer. Looking at 20ft with extra ht for brass cars so I don’t have to put the top down. Also want to tow a 36 Ford or a 57 TBird which I can not do now with a 7/17 cargo trailer. The Montrose this size weighs about 2500lbs and are only 8 ft width which would mean I could tow my 1911 Ford and small 1912 Buick’s behind my 96 Roadmaster with the tow package occasionally. Most of the towing would be with a Class C motorhome with the V10. Any have any experience with Montrose?


Door height and door width at the opening.

 

A 96 inch wide trailer may not have a wide

enough door opening to suit your needs.

 

 

Jim

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22 hours ago, TAKerry said:

Curiosity, do you have an anit sway/equalizer hitch ?  Not sure exactly what they are called just know what they look like. My brother pulled his toy hauler once, then had one installed on his truck. Made a big difference.

 

This is our setup.  

IMG_7953.jpg

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You can't go wrong with a Featherlite and I agree that a 24' is the best for load distribution and resale.  I tow with a 2500 Ram Diesel and don't have any need for an equalizing hitch, don't even know the trailer is back there.  Don't buy a taller trailer than you need, mine is about a foot or more higher than a standard and it cost me about 1/2 to3/4 MPG.  

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40 minutes ago, Avanti Bill said:

You can't go wrong with a Featherlite and I agree that a 24' is the best for load distribution and resale.  I tow with a 2500 Ram Diesel and don't have any need for an equalizing hitch, don't even know the trailer is back there.  Don't buy a taller trailer than you need, mine is about a foot or more higher than a standard and it cost me about 1/2 to3/4 MPG.  

Agree. It takes more fuel to tow a tall trailer.

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17 hours ago, R W Burgess said:

*

The only sway bars I have seen are very small, similar to ones you see on some steering tie rods. I doubt they would do much good on a 30 foot car trailer when a 45 foot semi box trailer blows by you. 

 

I agree, they are small and I do not own one.

But we sold those and I installed a few at the boat dealership and had good reports.

They have an adjustable friction device that doesn't really need to be very large.

If your load gets out of hand in traffic with all the safety items in place then you probably need a more substantial tow vehicle.

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2 hours ago, JACK M said:

 

If your load gets out of hand in traffic with all the safety items in place then you probably need a more substantial tow vehicle.

*

*

You're right Jack! :-)

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Anyone thinking of replacing a trailer better check prices.  The price of a new ones has increased 50-100% in less than a year...which will drive up prices of used ones as well.  I guess part of it is costs of materials have increased...a sheet of 3/4-inch plywood is now approaching $100.

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On 7/2/2021 at 7:49 AM, alsancle said:

 

This is our setup.  

IMG_7953.jpg


 

Truck and trailer are much too wimpy........that said, you already own it. Ok for the tiny stuff, not the big boy toys. 

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1 hour ago, edinmass said:


 

Truck and trailer are much too wimpy........that said, you already own it. Ok for the tiny stuff, not the big boy toys. 


there is nothing wimpy about the trailer but 20 feet won’t carry a car with more than a 135” wheelbase.  I’ll agree on the truck.

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Hi Folks,

What you are calling "anti-sway bars"  are what I call "load leveling bars"  A pair on a hitch set-up.

Here's a photo of an anti-sway unit that I use. Bought at Hbr Fright. Works well with our rig.

We have a tall 26'trailer and tow with a 2012 Ford 350 passenger van. Class IV hitch.

IMG_2202[1].JPG

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On 7/2/2021 at 7:49 AM, alsancle said:

 

This is our setup.  

IMG_7953.jpg

This is the same type of settup my brother has on his toy hauler. I know he said it made a big difference. I just use a straight pintle hitch on my deck trailer and a ball with my small box trailer.

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For maximum usable interior floor space and the best fuel economy for your tow vehicle and the straightest tracking of your enclosed trailer …. 😏

 

Order a coffin front trailer with a nose cone

and lose the equalizer/weight distribution system because you won’t need it.

 

Order an extended tongue ( 5 foot ) and in addition to helping you turn easier without hitting the corners of your tow vehicle - you can use the space for storage - I found the aluminum tool box shown at an rv surplus supply in White Pigeon, Michigan for only $200 🍀

 

 

Jim

 

 

39925C84-92CA-432C-9063-E2E94BD5B29B.jpeg.48a9417e21e92f11b1c0352565fcee37.jpeg

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