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27 Coupe No threads in Hand Crank Hole ?


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Frame says it was built between July 12-22 of 1926 making it a 1927 .. Engine is a B731-349  

Anyone have any idea why there are no threads in the Hand Crank Hole to screw the plug/cover into? Was there any that just used a push in cover? Or has something been swapped somewhere along the way? 

You guys know these cars better than I ever will..

What are your thoughts/opinions ?

Thanks in advance!

 

BinPa

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Ok, Thank you for the confirmation, I wasn't aware Dodge used the push in style that far back.. I never looked at the hole before I ordered the screw in plug and gasket.. Oh well back to the hunt.

I have noticed this car seems to be an odd ball on several items like the Caskey Dupree Light Switch with separate ignition. I'm still trying to figure out what series it is.. 

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To determine the series, you need the car serial number. There should be a plate on the floorboard on the passenger side that would have the serial number. Maybe you got the serial number off the frame and that is how you determined the build date. Based on that your car build date, serial number is between A710,000-A720,000. This indicates you should have a Type C engine?

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Edited by hwellens
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Posted (edited)

Plate on the floor dosen't match frame # of 711-xxx Engine is B 731-349 it may of had an engine change at one point prior to 1954.

I bought if from the man whos father bought it when it was first brought into Pa in 1954.. I tried to ask him questions but he was in his eighties and a bit confused sometimes giving two opposite answers to a question. So I have been trying to figure it out on my own by searching the web and going back thru old old AACA posts.

 I haven't bought the Book of Information yet due to not knowing which addition to purchase , the one closest to the car serial #'s or one for the motor build date..  I do have the Mechanics Instruction Manual.

 

If you look at the chart on the DB Club showing serial #'s it shows that the B & C Motors had Overlap usage from July 12 1926 # 708-560 thru August 23, 1926. (Vehicles with “B” engine could be found through approx) A-755,000.

 

I dunno I  just hope I can  find a few of the parts its missing and get it running and driving enough to have a little fun with it.. I don't think I will ever do a full restoration ..

  It only has 335 miles on it since its last oil change on March 19 1959..  Due to a warped head it has not run since the 80's. I have had the head done and is ready to go back on. I do want to drop the pan clean it out and check the bearings and give it a pre lube in preparation of firing it off next weekend with any luck.

 

Thank you for any and all info!

 

 

 

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Edited by BHWINCVAP (see edit history)
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The engine serial numbers and car serial numbers do not match. Engine numbers run about 50,000+ more than the serial number.

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11 minutes ago, hwellens said:

The engine serial numbers and car serial numbers do not match. Engine numbers run about 50,000+ more than the serial number.

 This one is only about 20,000 difference so it may have been changed , or this engine may of had a problem and was sent back to have the problem reworked/corrected and was put back in the production line out of sequence.  Heck look at the two charts the one you posted and the one on the dodge brothers site and the use of the B & C motors don't  agree but yet they are both from DB.. I tried to post there serial # chart here but it wouldn't let me being a pdf file..

 

As log as it runs decent and I can putt it around the neighborhood, I will be happy original or not..

Thanks for the help.

 

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Just enjoy it. I have a 27 Dodge also (model 124) mostly original.  Join the Dodge Bros Club if you have not already. Good organization. Check their website out. We are getting together at Macungie, PA in August. Tour for two days (Friday and Saturday)  and go to the show on Sunday.

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Based on the chart above, it looks like your series was by the year "1927 Series".  The numbering system started later I guess since there were so many changes in 1927.

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 l know my dash seems to be an early 27 odd ball compared to what I have been able to find in others on line.

It has the Caskey Dupree unkeyed Headlight switch which I was pleasantly surprised to find was mostly made out of bakelite plastic and not the pressed carboard others were having problem with in their switches.. Luck was on my side as Myers Early Dodge had new Chrome Knobs and face decals for it.. Only issue I had with the new knob was I had to ream the bushing a good bit in order to get the knob thru it..

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Ok, I was wondering if the ignition switch in mine was added in later,, I had seen a few with them and a few without and none were in the same spot.. Does the tail of your headlight switch point up or down?

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The head light switch on my 28 2249 Senior is as yours is in the photo and it is lifted up in a clockwise direction Positions are tail and park lights, Dull or dim headlights and brighter (but still dull ) headlights 

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8 hours ago, BHWINCVAP said:

Ok, I was wondering if the ignition switch in mine was added in later,, I had seen a few with them and a few without and none were in the same spot.. Does the tail of your headlight switch point up or down?

Tail down.....

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Man Bill, Nickel plated Gauge bezels, You are in the upper scale.. This crate of mine must have been the El Cheapo Fleet Model! .

There was not a trace of nickel to be found on my bezels. At first I thought it might me worn off but once it was removed to repair the switch there wasn't a trace on the back side .. Your switch is identical..

 

10 hours ago, Ron Lawson said:

The head light switch on my 28 2249 Senior is as yours is in the photo and it is lifted up in a clockwise direction Positions are tail and park lights, Dull or dim headlights and brighter (but still dull ) headlights 

I think the headlights were something like 23 candle power each. which is a night light for a home bathroom by todays standards.. I will take a day and do a total rewire before trying the electrical system.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Your early '27 would have threads in the crank hole. They are just worn away. That is actually the front engine mount. Get another from any of the previous years that has good threads and replace it. It will also need a proper threaded plug, available from any DB vendor.

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17 hours ago, dwollam said:

Your early '27 would have threads in the crank hole. They are just worn away. That is actually the front engine mount. Get another from any of the previous years that has good threads and replace it. It will also need a proper threaded plug, available from any DB vendor.

Never had any threads. I did buy a new threaded plug  before I looked at it. The threads on the plug are larger than than the diameter of the hole.. Who knows whats been changed/replaced with what over the past 90 odd years?

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I tapped/chased the threads on the front of my ‘26. They had been smashed in real good. Bought a Chinese tap off of eBay. Worked well. 1 5/8-16 tap. 

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  • 3 months later...

 

44 minutes ago, nearchoclatetown said:

I'm going out on a limb here, but if you have the threaded crank hole cover on ebay right now it is for early DBs, 1915 ish. George made some, they are different then say 1924 which has a bigger thread. The early one has the part number cast into it, later does not. 

This thread is about those cars that had the push in style crank hole cover and George has now nicely reproduced them Identical to the one HWellens posted pictures of above..

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Since I got the 1st one I will be the 1st to say " I'm Thankful" these things never come up for sale that I have seen. He didn't know the push in styles even existed. Till I asked if he had any and then he started to inquire around and with help from HWellens pictures... They are available!

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