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Crank Sensor Replacement--Help!


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Is there a way to replace the sensor without using the expensive tool to set up the gap? The J37089 tool is supposedly required to install the sensor. Has to be an easier way to do this. Couldn't find in the forums. 

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You can just eyeball it in the most basic way. Since everything that meshes together is curved, determining the spacing takes looking from every angle possible. The actual spacing isn’t that critical as long as nothing touches or rubs. A couple pieces of matchbook cover on either side of one vane will give reasonable proof the spacing is okay.

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On 6/21/2021 at 11:39 AM, MRJBUICK said:

my 91 is adjustable 

like said above carefull, slow, dillegent work

you can do it

like the matchbook idea, remind's me of points lol 

 

I don't usually do this but, I will ask you to point out the adjustment point for me. Keep in mind I have bolted on at least ten of these. Not once have I had to adjust it. Also it is the same part across all Reatti years and supercharged series one motors.

 

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6 hours ago, D-a-n-i-e-l said:

I don't usually do this but, I will ask you to point out the adjustment point for me. Keep in mind I have bolted on at least ten of these. Not once have I had to adjust it. Also it is the same part across all Reatti years and supercharged series one motors.

 

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With the long bolt loosened you can slide the sensor forward and back in the holder. I’ve replaced several dozen myself and had to adjust probably half of them. 

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On this particular engine it's adjustable. It has a pinch screw that you tighten after adjusting the gap. the sensor slides back and forth in the bracket. I used the cardboard trick to set the gap. You fold the cardboard over the center peg then slide the balancer on carefully to set the gap. Here's a picture of the sensor that came off my engine. 14802030_CrankSensor.jpg.b37961c585a101a8ac55ce63f7e42418.jpg

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I replaced the harmonic balancer with a Dorman brand only to find the face (front) of the damper is wrong for this engine. The front of the damper sticks out and there isn't any clearance to put the stabilizer bracket back on. Obviously requires a special damper for this car. Don't know what the oem part number is. Checked the Dorman website and this is the only one listed for a 1989 Reatta.953365544_OldBalancer.jpg.0444896ee0705eef45dc8e0c5222264f.jpg243290246_NewBalancer.jpg.b581c913a4edcb88c8ff5455b4a8723b.jpg

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That will probably work. Have you tried it? There's approximately 1/4 inch difference in the dampers. The engine wanted to miss a lot when I ran it at idle. Hoping it's the ICM and the coil pack causing the problem. I ordered the parts today. Mine is red like yours! Electrical problems popping up here and there. 

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6 hours ago, 1989randyboy said:

That will probably work. Have you tried it? There's approximately 1/4 inch difference in the dampers. The engine wanted to miss a lot when I ran it at idle. Hoping it's the ICM and the coil pack causing the problem. I ordered the parts today. Mine is red like yours! Electrical problems popping up here and there. 

Yes I have. I did it years ago when I swapped out the engine. The balancer was thicket then the original one. I believe I only had to put washers under the lowest bolt, but you might have a different experience.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi there folks! Got the stabilizer back in without hitting the damper. Put in a new ICM and coil pack.  The 3/6 coil is only firing at high rpm's. No spark at all when it's running slow. Don't know if it's the Dorkman damper or the crank sensor. Got frustrated and had to get away from it for a while. Don't need to ruin the new cat that was put on a few years ago. 

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  • 1 month later...

Well, I'm out of money and cannot continue to throw more parts into this car. This is a list of parts that have been installed to no avail.

 

Harmonic Balancer ( Rubber was shot)

Crank Sensor

Coil Pack

Control Module

Battery (old one was weak)

Cam Sensor

Spark Plugs

Plug Wires

Cleaned and replaced EGR Gasket.  (Unable to test and expensive to replace)

 

Local mechanic had it and couldn't get it to run right. Actually worse when I took it back! Will run smooth at 3000 rpm, but skips and will quit as rpm's go down. Only good thing is that it will restart now as it wouldn't before. Mechanic thinks it has a blown head gasket?? 

 

Ready to find a new home for it. Can't afford to go any further. 

Reatta2.JPG

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On 9/3/2021 at 4:53 PM, 1989randyboy said:

Local mechanic had it and couldn't get it to run right.

 

Have you ever replaced the timing chain, or had the timing cover off?  I remember seeing this magnet, held in by a plastic plug when I replaced the timing chain on my '89 Bonneville with a 3800.  This guy has nailed your problem!  ;)

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqfHuWYrJyE

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