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52deluxe
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i am new to packard autos and car collecting in general so i am looking for a little help in restoring my 52 packard 200 deluxe. i found the car where it had been sitting from 1960 till 2000 when i rescued it from being sent to the crusher "the owner died and the relatives did not want the car" it was covered with about 6 inches of dead leaves, apples, and a good helping of moss but when i cleaned a little of the fender and saw the wonderful green paint and the packard hubcaps i had to have it. i have found places like kanter, maxmerritt, and packardpartsonline. being 23 and full time worker i need to stretch every dollar. i am not going for a show car "right now" but a good looking daily driver. so i don’t want to spend 400 on door rubber if i don’t have to. any help would be greatly valued. i have been following the post about the gas tank for the 56 as i will need one soon because mine was damaged during the tow home. I have just bought and painted a dieterich sunvisor for the car and will be installing it in the next day or so, im just waiting for the paint to cure so I don’t scratch it any tips on getting it right the first time will make my life much easier. You can see the car on my website www.stampsandstuff.net but the pics were taken early last august I have sense filled and painted the front grill to match the roof this is just to cover the awful potmetal till I can find another grill. I have also done a in-car engine overhaul. And replaced the rear taillight housings and trunk handle and found a license plate light assembly. I do need to do the interior as it is completely original and it sun has been hard to it. I have noticed this car is VERY cold blooded is this typical with packards or is there a way to get the car to start and run better when cold “it almost wont move till it is warmed up” I have hundreds of questions but this will have to do for now. If you wish to e-mail me my address is twhitus@adelphia.net and check out the car at www.stampsandstuff.net let me know what you think.

tom

stampsandstuff

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<img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />WELCOME 52 DELUXE: I own and in the process of restoring a 53 Packard. If you have questions please ask everyone here I know is willing to help. There are two otherpersons that post in here that have the high pocket Packards besides myself. Randy Ownes whom posts under RO. Pat & Jay who also owns a 53 Packard 400 series. Iknow Jay very well he has had alot of hands on mechanical experience on his 53. I know I haveasked him alot of questions in the past ad will be asking him many more inthe furture. I am glad your are the fourth one to come here that owns a high pockets Packard. The people owning 55 & 56 Packards have us outnumbered.

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Gee Whiz John:

How soon we forget.(smile) If I may refresh your memory, I used to own a 51 high pockets(patrician) although it is now sold. You bought the grille from it in N.Y. Of course it was my wifes car so she would a better one to ask. In any event, Packard52 welcome to the board an do not hesitate to ask questions. that is the only way to find out.

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thats been most of my problem i see tons of parts and literature on pre war, post war till about 50 and then skips 51-53 almost entirely right to 55 on up. my biggest problem is it being so cold blooded im so used to getting in my 89 volkswagen and just going, the packard has to warm up for at least 5 min and if its below 40 just getting started can be a problem "the choke is closed" so im kind of at a loss.

tom

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Tom,

I have a '52 200 that I drove as a second car commuting 50 miles to work. It replaced a VW bus in which I froze driving in the winter. My car is really rough now because it sat outside for years; but I now have it under cover. I did a valve, ring, and rod bearing replacement and then drove it for 60K miles. It has a '53 288 engine with standard transmission that the previous owner installed. I have a 327 engine with automatic that I might someday install. I should have some interchange part numbers in my notes somewhere for the car. It has a grille from a '51. The entire car is in pretty rough condition. The '51-'54 shop manual will help you a lot. Reproductions are available from the Packard Club and literature vendors. I have an original from Max Merritt that I bought some 30 years ago. I'll be glad to help you, if I can.

jnp

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Welcome 52Deluxe! Although I have 55-56s right now, my Dad used to own a 51 200 4dr until it intersected a palm tree at speed.

WRT "cold blooded driving", even though the choke is closed: it sounds like your problem is that the accelerator pump is NO-OP. You can verify this by looking down the carb throat and flipping the throttle linkage partly open. Extra gas should be injected from the accelerator nozzles into the carb venturi when the throttle is moved open. If not, you'll have to o'haul the carb to repair it. Another possibility is that you have a BIG air leak due to a broken gasket somewhere in the carb or its mount.

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Tom,

Welcome to the board. I saw the pictures of your car. It is not in bad shape for something that was laying around outside for so long. Your Hard Work on it shows and in the end you will have a very nice car. Take my advice and go into it slowly and take one step at a time. Things like the mechanicals on your car is not exotic, but people with the knowledge to work on them is becoming few and far between. Thats why it pays to learn as much as you can about your Packard and save yourself a lot of time and money. Things like Chrome pieces can wait.

If you hang around here, we all will be glad to help you out. Good luck and best wishes.

Bob Bosworth

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well i checked the carb's accelorator pump and it works fine. i did replace the carb with a nos pump that came from a friends house "he bought a bunch of parts then decided he wanted a v-8" i have not checked for vacume leaks and that might explaine why the wipers dont work like they should. i will fire it up tonight and do a wd-40 check if there is a leak around the carb ill find it. it does have power brakes have these been know to leak vacume.

as for the pics on my website they are about 6 months old when the weather breaks i will post one with my new dieterich sunvisor.

thanks

tom

my packard pics

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Welcome to the Packard room, Tom. I own a '53 Clipper Deluxe I acquired in December of 1995. It is a great driving automobile. But it had some problems in the past that were eventually worked out. This is a great site and folks will try to help you all they can. I see you know of Max Merritt, Kanter, etc. but there are others out there with Packard parts and help. And you can find many parts like tuneup parts (points, rotors, etc.) and brake parts (wheel cylinders, hoses, etc.) at NAPA or CarQuest and even Auto Zone. I encourage you to look at the thread Keith Lummus started on Cross Reference numbers for parts as that may be very helpful. And of course, good ol' ebay I have acquired many parts from. Keep us posted of events and good look on the restoration. And if the wipers should be faulty, Fickens Wiper Service (I can get you the address) will fix them for about $55 total. I have had several restored there.

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Tom,

Check for a hole in the Vacuum Resevior tank mounted in the drivers side fender well. There also could be a vacuum leak in the hosing from the intake manifold to the Bendix Treadle Vac unit and to the Vacuum Resevior Tank. As you pointed out, the Bendix Treadle Vac units are notorious leakers. If you here Hissing coming from any where around there with the car running and the brakes applied that would be a strong indication of a Vacuum leak in the vacuum valve in the Treadle Vac. There is also a hose inside the unit that could be pourous as well. I had this problem with the old one in my '55 Clipper. That caused a massive vacuum leak. I was able to replace the hose with the unit in the car.

You also could have an intake manifold leak in the gasket between the engine block and the manifold. A cracked intake manifold is another possibility. Check also for leaks at the Carburator base and on the Carburator itself as well.

One last thing to check is the Vacuum Advance Diaphram on the distibutor. That could be gone. By closing the choke a little, it would have enough Vacuum to make it work if its only got a pin hole in it.

These are all things to consider when loosing Vacuum. Vacuum is not like pressure. The smallest leak can cause big problems. You can always apply more pressure or volume to overcome a leak within reason in something. With Vacuum you are only able to remove Atmospheric Pressure, 14.7 P.S.I. at Sea Level. To totally remove atmospheric pressure would require a Vacuum of 29.998 inches of mercury (Hg.)@32 degrees F. The whole atmosphere is trying to get into one small leak which makes a Vacuum leak very tough to overcome. The engine at Idle should have 20-24 inches of Vacuum depending on its condition.

Bob

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well is fired the packard up today and did the wd-40 vacuum leak test. i could not find any vacuum leaks around the carb or intake manafold. the vacuum advance does leak but when i plug the hose the engine speed was not affected. i did hear a hiss around the master brake cylinder and upon closer inspection i found all the hoses to be dry rotted and collapsed so i will replace these soon. also one of the vacuum brake hoses goes right into the firewall near the voltage regulator i cannot find it under the dash, is this some sort of vacuum regulator i cant find it in any of my books. i also found that the distributor is completely shot the distributor shaft moves back and forth about 1/8 inche or more so i will start looking for bushings, i already tried napa, advance autoparts, and parts america. so i check with kanter or maxmerritt tomarrow. while i was in the garage i installed my dieterich sunvisor the whole time i was giggling like a little kid on christmas, it was a lot easier than i thought. the idea of making a vintage rod has crossed my mind a time or two, as i have seen several edmunds intake manifolds of the straight 8 that allow 3 two barrel carbs to be installed, any thoughts on this. i plan on lowering the car and putting swaybars on it to help in the corners. i do not plan on choping, shaving, or frencing the car or anything else that requires cutting the body or frame, but i have been following a thread about a 56 panther "i think" where he fitted disk brakes to it, but its just a thought. what is the best way to clean door panels mine have water marks in them but the cloth is not rotted so i dont want to replace the originals if i can save them. packard pics

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Potential areas of vacuum leak are the vacuum supply hose to the wipers and brakes at the back of the carburetor. It may appear to be tight, but it is a potential source. A leak occurred on mine at the metal line fitting into the carburetor from the vacuum diaphragm but it was so slight as to not respond to normal methods of checking it, but we changed the fitting and the idle improved. The only hose I recall going through the firewall is for the vacuum wipers, up to the switch.

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Hi 52Deluxe: Yeah, there is a "1956 Panther" project out there and I'm the culprit. I also own a near near-original 1955 Patrician which has the disc brake conversion. The main thing is to keep them from the "crusher" which you seem to have done with your 1952!

As far as cleaning the inside door panels: my "guess" at this point is to take off the door panel, soak it in "Oxy-clean" for about an hour, hose it off with clean water, then let it air dry. I haven't found anything in a spray can or bottle which does anything to remove the stains. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

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Hello, I reply to your post because I am also interested in a multi carb setup on a straight 288 engine.Should you know more about edmunds manifolds , please let me know.

As relates to your cold start problem, I suffer from flooding the engine in the cold state. My choke valve operates nicely, but I think it closes too much . After four times starting,

i.e. turning the ngine with ignition on, I smell petrol coming out of the exhaust pipe. I then open the choke valve against its spring and remove the air

filter pipe. Then the engine starts at once. I tell you this because you too may have a similar problem. The crude way to find out what is what is to

pour petrol directly in the carburator and start.Keep in mind the check on petrol fumes , though.

Gerben Wassenaar, packard standard 288 1948, netherlands, europe.

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My 54 clipper with the 288 starts good in the cold weather -15c (coldest so far I have tried) or warm, the main thing is to make sure the vaccuum choke pull off is working correctly. Mine I pump the throttle 3 to 4 times to the floor and the throttle 1/3 to 1/2 way down, and it's still got 6 volt battery. that extra vaccuum going through the firewall might be like mine, to run the washer pump for the windshield?

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The vacuum hose in your picture is illustrated on Plate No. 42 in the Packard 48-54 Parts and Accessories List. The other end not shown in your picture is supposed to be connected to the Treadlvac Unit.....a fitting should be located on the fender well side of the Treadlevac, the lower fitting. The upper fitting on the side of the Treadlevac should have the hose that routes to the vacuum tank.

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believe me i am watching it. it is broken but the lower bar, outer teeth, and light housing are good and thats a start. i also had another thought about the hard starting when i crank the engine over it only goes about 60-90 rpm where my volkswagen is closer to 300-400, is this normal for a packard or could my starter be my problem. i never really noticed until i tried to start it the other day and my friend pointed it out to me.

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that grill can be welded without too much problem, as far as slow cranking, check the communitator of the starter and the brushes & springs. Also make sure you don't have light guage wire going to the starter or for the ground, Some have tried #2 guage(does not work) get some 00 or 2 ot welders cable works great, just started my 54 Packard tonight outside -20 no problem second try and it still has a 6 volt battery.

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O.K. thanks for the reply.In the mean time I did a cold starting attempt, which did succeed.I just started the engine some six times ,then it ran .The trick seams to be that it waqnts a lot of petrol in the inlet manifold. By using the accelerator pump and during turning the engine keeping the throttle wide open

I got it done, no dirty hands. By the way I am still interested in playing around with different inlet

manifolds. Does the 327 manifold fit a 288 ?

Gerben Wasseaar

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the 327 & 288 manifolds are the same you can even get a 4bbl manifolds as well, Have ever seen a dual 2 bbl manifold. I had my 288 running last saturday night for a half hour started, on the second try was only -20c outside and continued running on it's own..

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Albert, not to put too fine a point on it, but that zinc casting cannot be "welded". They can be repaired, but it is a different operation. If you strike an arc or apply too much heat with a torch, the zinc casting will disappear. I would leave that repair to someone experienced in that type of repair.

YFAM, Randy Berger

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I was using rods that i picked up for welding aluminum/pot from a welding supply house here, but i think they are the same ones you see at the trade shows for doing my grill, I was using oxy/propane with good results will see about the plating now..

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