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1930 Stutz LeBaron Cabriolet Sold for 25K


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Needing a lot of work,  but that still looks like a bargain to me.   Thoughts?    The one Steve Snyder sold (10 years ago?)  was complete and running but with a knock.  I think he got around 55k.

 

https://www.proxibid.com/Collector-Cars/Antique-Cars/1930-Stutz-LeBaron-Cabriolet/lotInformation/61691931

 

* NO RESERVE from the Estate of Gordon R. Granger * Mileage Exempt * Model MA Straight 8-Cylinder with 113hp * Manual Transmission * Dual Side Mounts * Wire Wheels * Luggage Rack * Rumble Seat * Non Operable | Engine Cleaned | Paint Cleaned & Buffed | Interior Cleaned | Chrome Cleaned & Polished | Wheels & Tires Cleaned * Please Note: in the absence of Mr. Granger, we have done our best to properly identify and describe this vehicle; however, we ask that you remember you are purchasing this vehicle as is where is and based solely upon your own inspection.

 

Stutz-M.jpg

Edited by alsancle (see edit history)
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Neat car.

 

There is nothing more expensive than a cheap Stutz.

 

You can swap out Stutz for Packard, Pierce, Rolls, Lincoln, and just about every CCCA Classic.

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3 hours ago, edinmass said:

Neat car.

 

There is nothing more expensive than a cheap Stutz.

 

You can swap out Stutz for Packard, Pierce, Rolls, Lincoln, and just about every CCCA Classic.

How about a cheap Cord. Gives me chills just thinking about it. 

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7 hours ago, ericmac said:

How about a cheap Cord. Gives me chills just thinking about it. 

I bought a “cheap”, non running when I bought it, Cord 812 phaeton in 1985, I knew no better.  Turned out fine, car ran and drove well after some sorting.

 

I know someone who bought an expensive 812 supercharged phaeton, only to find it was a supercharge housing with no guts, sitting on a standard engine.  For those who might not  know, big difference, a supercharged engine has different cam, different firing order, and so on.

 

In the case of this thread, the old saying could be revised...you’d have to be Nutz to buy this Stutz!!

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Interesting Stutz, now the 'fun' and expense begins.   Should be a worthwhile effort, hope it was purchased by someone who loves the marque, a true "Stutz Nutz" fellow.  Reading in The Splendid Stutz by Katzell, this Series MA was classed as a Standard 134.5" wb with the Body Type No,. M-27 for which "all open bodies were now manufactured by LeBaron and the closed bodies by Hale Kilburn." 

 

Changes noted for the 1930-'31 Series MA and MB:

 

"The most noteworthy change was the wheels were now bolted by lugs to the reinforced brake drums rather than being mounted directly on the hubs as before. Hub caps were correspondingly larger, too.  Mechanical changes were also minimal, and included the use of Gabriel shock absorbers in lieu of the Lovejoy type"

 

Perhaps a leftover 1929 Stutz M not sold until calendar 1930 and titled as such?

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For years, I looked to buy nice cars that had good cosmetics and a bad engine.......buy it on the discount, fix or rebuild the engine.......then drive it for a while and flip it. That was how I got into the hobby with no money, and ended up with a few decent middle of the road CCCA cars. Today, if I see a nice car with decent cosmetics and a bad engine......I run for the hills. Yup, I can fix it today faster and easier with forty years of experience under my belt........but the cost of putting an engine together in my garage, by myself, is incredibly cost prohibitive..........you can’t imagine what it costs to do an engine correctly with no short cuts......not talking Pebble finishes..........it is very difficult to get any outside suppliers to do work.........weather or not they are any good. The two coasts are especially difficult.......mid America with its equipment and agricultural mechanics still have some shops that work at rates that are livable. Try and get stuff done up in New England........the labor rates will make you pass out.......wouldn’t be too bad if they did fantastic work.........fact is I don’t trust any local rebuilders to do good work.....it’s all slam it together and see if it holds up. It doesn’t. We continue to buy equipment, rebuild it, and stick it in the corner so we don’t get blocks back that have been ruined. Basically it’s do it yourself, of you get an expensive mess handed back to you. Yup, there are a very few exceptions........but there are several well known engine rebuilders who’s work I regularly have to do over..........no names or comments please, as several members here have worked with me under similar circumstances. Have you tried to buy piston pins lately? Almost impossible..........rings for old pistons...........almost a lost cause. It takes so much time trying to get correct rings for old pistons it’s cheaper to special order new pistons  with rings and punch out the holes. Valves and valve guides are the same way. Also.......FYI 90 percent of “total Pebble rebuilds” are NOT getting new cam bearings..........too much time, money, and very difficult. I see it ALL the time. I can honestly say that there are less than ten shops I know of that I would let do an engine for me......and then I still don’t sleep easy. 

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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