Lahti35 Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 Occasionally a question gets posted on the forum about using an antique auto for daily transport. I've always found the discussion that follows to be interesting and thought I'd start a thread on my newest adventure with a 1968 F250 FORD. My current daily driver (1994 chevy 1500) is showing its age: high miles, brittle plastic in the engine compartment and lots of rust. It needs something monthly and will be relegated to "winter beater" status as a sacrifice to the November-March salt gods of Michigan. Initially I looked into a newer truck but with current market conditions anything in my budget is already high miles, although newer, and with even more electronic junk that I don't want to deal with. I've driven a few vintage cars as daily drivers in the past, a 1961 and 1966 falcon. I've come to enjoy the 60's FORD vehicles due to parts availability, ease of maintenance and low cost of spares. This time I needed a truck and found a nice solid F250 that's being transported in as I write this. What follows will be the process of the initial repairs and day to day problems that pop up during use of a 50 year old truck as daily transport. A few pics from the gentleman inspector who examined it for me to get things going... 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEVE POLLARD Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 Very cool truck ! I have a soft spot for this vintage truck, while in the Fire Service, we had a 1972 F250 with a utility body..... the truck was retired and sold, current owner restored it and uses it as his daily driver as well. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f.f.jones Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 Looks like you made a good choice. You didn't mention mention the engine/transmission combination, but the photo looks like it's an automatic, probably a C-6 hopefully connected to a FE390 or 360, a pretty bullet-proof package. I've attached a couple of shots (taken just a few years back) of my '72 F-100 which I purchased brand new as a left-over in January, 1973, in San Jose, CA. $4400 sticker price, less $1200 trade-in for my 1968 Pontiac Firebird. (needed a truck more than the car!) The truck has been my RELIABLE daily driver for most of the last 48 years. It has in the neighborhood of 700,000 miles. I'm on my third engine (FE390) rebuilt about 10 or 12 years ago after wearing out two 360's over the previous decades. The rest of the drive line is original equipment with the transmission having been rebuilt sometime in the 80's. We've traveled coast to coast (and back) hauling a 25 foot 5th wheel camp trailer, and border to border, commuted daily to grad school and work for years, hauled sand, gravel, farm animals, hay, furniture, kids and dogs, and now it's mostly relegated to dump runs and the occasional light hauling job. Paint, trim and Interior are all original, too, but new seat upholstery and headliner are to be installed soon. The AM radio works fine (for what it's worth) as well as all instruments, etc. I still have the purchase papers and glove box literature. The truck and I are mostly retired now. I'm turning 78 this month and just received another 6 year driver's license renewal. I look forward to at least a few more good years with my truck and wish you the best of luck with your "new" truck. P.S. I recognized the Washington state license on your truck and the Montana mud flaps. Was it purchased out of the Spokane, WA area? Looks like one that was advertised here recently. By the way, my "new" daily driver for the last few years is a 1995 Jeep Cherokee (170K) rebuilt from a collision with a five-prong white-tail buck. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f.f.jones Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 Quote 12 minutes ago, mike6024 said: Would it have solid lifters? To my knowledge, except for the higher performance (car) engines, all standard performance engines ran hydraulic lifters. All mine have been hydraulic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 6, 2021 Author Share Posted June 6, 2021 22 hours ago, STEVE POLLARD said: Very cool truck ! I have a soft spot for this vintage truck, while in the Fire Service, we had a 1972 F250 with a utility body..... the truck was retired and sold, current owner restored it and uses it as his daily driver as well. Steve Very cool! Looks like it has split rims? My new F250 had them but they were swapped out years ago, only the spare is still the original split rim type now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 6, 2021 Author Share Posted June 6, 2021 8 hours ago, f.f.jones said: Looks like you made a good choice. You didn't mention mention the engine/transmission combination, but the photo looks like it's an automatic, probably a C-6 hopefully connected to a FE390 or 360, a pretty bullet-proof package. I've attached a couple of shots (taken just a few years back) of my '72 F-100 which I purchased brand new as a left-over in January, 1973, in San Jose, CA. $4400 sticker price, less $1200 trade-in for my 1968 Pontiac Firebird. (needed a truck more than the car!) The truck has been my RELIABLE daily driver for most of the last 48 years. It has in the neighborhood of 700,000 miles. I'm on my third engine (FE390) rebuilt about 10 or 12 years ago after wearing out two 360's over the previous decades. The rest of the drive line is original equipment with the transmission having been rebuilt sometime in the 80's. We've traveled coast to coast (and back) hauling a 25 foot 5th wheel camp trailer, and border to border, commuted daily to grad school and work for years, hauled sand, gravel, farm animals, hay, furniture, kids and dogs, and now it's mostly relegated to dump runs and the occasional light hauling job. Paint, trim and Interior are all original, too, but new seat upholstery and headliner are to be installed soon. The AM radio works fine (for what it's worth) as well as all instruments, etc. I still have the purchase papers and glove box literature. The truck and I are mostly retired now. I'm turning 78 this month and just received another 6 year driver's license renewal. I look forward to at least a few more good years with my truck and wish you the best of luck with your "new" truck. P.S. I recognized the Washington state license on your truck and the Montana mud flaps. Was it purchased out of the Spokane, WA area? Looks like one that was advertised here recently. By the way, my "new" daily driver for the last few years is a 1995 Jeep Cherokee (170K) rebuilt from a collision with a five-prong white-tail buck. Nice looking truck! 700k miles is impressive! I hope I get there with mine though i'm on restricted duty April-Octoberish due to the salt in Michigan so it may take some additional time. I had a 1960 F250 with an inline 223 but it was a tad too antique for modern traffic, the next generation bumpside series should well I think. This particular F250 spent it's life out west in Idaho/Montana/Washington from the looks of the mudflaps/dealer decal/pervious owner. Pickings are slim here in Michigan, I ran across a local one from out west for sale locally to me a month ago but just missed it. Most everything here is a rust bucket junker and I hate body work. It does have a C6 mated to a 360FE, about 68K miles judging from the odometer and overall condition. The inspector was very impressed with the truck and it's originality. Delivery is tomorrow, shipping was fast, way faster than I thought it would be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve9 Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 31 minutes ago, Lahti35 said: Most everything here is a rust bucket junker and I hate body work. Congratulations on your new old truck. You are miles and years ahead by buying a rig from out west. One should consider a trip out this way when looking for any old car. Airfare is WAY cheaper than bodywork, right? We took a road trip to Montana one summer on Hwy 2 near Libby and was amazed at all the nice old cars people had for sale right there on the highway. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 6 hours ago, Steve9 said: Congratulations on your new old truck. You are miles and years ahead by buying a rig from out west. One should consider a trip out this way when looking for any old car. Airfare is WAY cheaper than bodywork, right? We took a road trip to Montana one summer on Hwy 2 near Libby and was amazed at all the nice old cars people had for sale right there on the highway. What makes a lot of sense tome out here in New England is to go and get a western car in good sheet metal shape and not worry about the mechanics or even the interior. There are many cars here that rot out before the driveline or interiors even have time to show any wear. Just change out the parts into the “new” sheet metal and you have your same car all over again. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 7, 2021 Author Share Posted June 7, 2021 (edited) Thanks for the comments! It arrived this AM, still blown away by how fast the shipping company was. Communication was spot on and they arrived within 15 minutes of the stated time after a 2000mi trip. The truck is as I expected and I'll give it a good going over asap but the time I spent with it this AM looks like it will fit the bill for the intended task. Edited June 13, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AURktman Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 23 hours ago, Lahti35 said: Thanks for the comments! It arrived this AM, still blown away by how fast the shipping company was. Communication was spot on and they arrived within 15 minutes of the stated time after a 2000mi trip. The truck is as I expected and I'll give it a good going over asap but the time I spent with it this AM looks like it will fit the bill for the intended task. If you don't mind me asking, what was the cost to have it shipped? I need a truck (71 Dodge D100) shipped from Wyoming to Alabama and I was wondering the ballpark figure of cost. Your new truck looks fantastic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 9, 2021 Author Share Posted June 9, 2021 21 hours ago, AURktman said: If you don't mind me asking, what was the cost to have it shipped? I need a truck (71 Dodge D100) shipped from Wyoming to Alabama and I was wondering the ballpark figure of cost. Your new truck looks fantastic! It was just north of 2k. Bad time to ship, prices are up due to current economical issues. I used a company called J&S Transport. I got several quotes from $1000 to $4100 from brokers and companies with their own trucks. In the end I went with J&S as they had really good reviews and I did not mind open transport, the truck had been outside anyway and we're not talking show car condition, just a solid old workhorse. Communication was stellar and they were speedy, 5 days total including pickup from time of booking and delivery. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AURktman Posted June 9, 2021 Share Posted June 9, 2021 Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 13, 2021 Author Share Posted June 13, 2021 (edited) A quick little overview before surgery begins... Directly after I pulled the exhaust out, it was pretty rotten. I was pretty mistified about how FORD got the y pipe in between the frame/C6/and the engine... I could not remove it without cutting it up. The frame crossmember must have to come out for replacement... Edited June 24, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f.f.jones Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 A word to the wise... Try to avoid ever having to tighten or loosen exhaust manifold bolts on an FE engine (especially one that appears to have been assembled 50 or so years ago) unless you plan to also remove the head. In my experience, these bolts corrode and firmly attach themselves in the head, then become brittle and break off. There's no space to get a drill and extractor in position, so if you have a manifold leak (gasket, crack, whatever), plan on major surgery. At least it gives you an excuse for a valve job. Best of luck with the truck. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 14, 2021 Author Share Posted June 14, 2021 21 hours ago, f.f.jones said: A word to the wise... Try to avoid ever having to tighten or loosen exhaust manifold bolts on an FE engine (especially one that appears to have been assembled 50 or so years ago) unless you plan to also remove the head. In my experience, these bolts corrode and firmly attach themselves in the head, then become brittle and break off. There's no space to get a drill and extractor in position, so if you have a manifold leak (gasket, crack, whatever), plan on major surgery. At least it gives you an excuse for a valve job. Best of luck with the truck. Noted, I've discovered this in my research also... I've got them soaking in PB blaster now, patience is the key! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 14, 2021 Author Share Posted June 14, 2021 (edited) Pulled the engine and transmission this AM. Heavy old sucker! It's easy to see that the valve covers have been leaking for some time covering everything in the typical dirt/oil sludge concretions. The transmission is also leaking from the input/output seals. I'll be replacing those seals as well as the majority of the engine seals as well. Edited June 24, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 14, 2021 Author Share Posted June 14, 2021 (edited) Started stripping the lines off the block... Anybody missing a pen? The electric heater won't be going back in either, keeping things simple. The manifolds need to come off, one is cracked and the other has issues with the mounting ears on the head it's mated to. This is largely going to influence what happens with the heads. If I have to have broken bolts removed at the machine shop they might be in for a rebuild, time will tell. Edited June 24, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f.f.jones Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 I thought you were buying a driver... What's your plan now that you have pieces and parts in your driveway and shop. I would have thought you could get a number of years out of that relatively low mileage truck with minimal repairs (although I don't know how it ran). Are you planning on a drive train restoration or something more grandiose? By the way, that pen is from the Spokane Teachers Credit Union. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 15, 2021 Author Share Posted June 15, 2021 10 hours ago, f.f.jones said: I thought you were buying a driver... What's your plan now that you have pieces and parts in your driveway and shop. I would have thought you could get a number of years out of that relatively low mileage truck with minimal repairs (although I don't know how it ran). Are you planning on a drive train restoration or something more grandiose? By the way, that pen is from the Spokane Teachers Credit Union. Seal up the leaks mainly, easier to just yank the whole thing and work on it outside the engine bay. We've got leaks in the tranny input/output, rear main seal, and intake. Also cleaning the goo off of everything and replacing rubber. No rebuilding of the transmission or engine, when running they seem good, it just doesn't start and run all that well. Needs a carb and ignition system rebuild for sure though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 (edited) I spent some time this afternoon cleaning the tranny in preparation for seal replacement. Lots of gack and crusty junk. A general going over with a scraper followed by a soak in oven cleaner got most of it off. A wire brush got the stubborn stuff. I still have to get into the nooks and crannies but it's much better now... Edited June 21, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 (edited) While I was degreasing the trans I was cleaning carb parts also. A quick wash with some thinner and a soda blast got things cleaned up nicely. The carb has a few issues, a worn throttle body being the worst. It's not severe but now is the time to take care of it. They make a kit to do 3/8 shaft bushings. I did have to modify the reamer and put relief cuts so I could use it backwards with the shaft as a pilot but it works good. A ratchet with a socket works good for driving it and only removing enough material to press the bushing flush into the throttle body with some locktite. I used the reamer shaft to align the bushings when driving them in, worked great and there is no play in the throttle shaft now. Edited June 21, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 21, 2021 Author Share Posted June 21, 2021 (edited) I finished rebuilding the carb this morning. It did have some issues: the afore mentioned worn throttle shaft bore, a float set too low, a check valve interfering with the float travel, and a bad dashpot. It's all sorted now and ready to go. Edited June 21, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 21, 2021 Author Share Posted June 21, 2021 (edited) The transmission is leaking so I'm working of fixing those also. There was a good size leak at the pump. I pulled the pump by theading two of the holes, installing bolts and using an improvised slide hammer I made out of some bits. I did this with the transmission hanging tail down from my hoist with the drum band tightened to keep any bits from moving around while the pump was out. Pretty straight forward, the pump gasket, o-ring and seal are now all replaced. Edited June 21, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 21, 2021 Author Share Posted June 21, 2021 (edited) Another day of degreasing... Cleaning off the concretions and removing the water and fuel pump shed light on the oil issues. The fuel pump gasket had a piece out of it allowing oil to spew out over the engine. Looking forward to cleaner shop time! Edited June 21, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 23, 2021 Author Share Posted June 23, 2021 (edited) I don't think I've ever bought a vintage vehicle that had a working dashboard light dimmer, no exceptions here. I was able to find a replacement, the only difference was the spacer was not attached to the switch as on the original... I spot welded them together, easier to hold one piece under a dash than two. For those that have never worked with this era Ford dash switch the knob is released by holding down this little hidden button on the top of the switch and pulling the knob out. The bezel in the dash can the be unscrewed and the switch removed. Edited June 23, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 28, 2021 Author Share Posted June 28, 2021 (edited) Work continued on the transmission this weekend... Just waiting on a new rear seal to finish it off. While waiting I cleaned the rest of the grime off the engine, popped the freeze plugs out and flushed the block out. I did get a bit of sludge but nothing major, mostly some grayish flecks of scale. The internal passages are very clean. The backs of the original steel plugs themselves were crusty, they will be replaced with brass plugs. Edited June 28, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 28, 2021 Author Share Posted June 28, 2021 (edited) With the bulk of the engine cleaned it was time to pull the heads (more on that issue later) and the oil pan. It came apart without any major fight, each part removed revealed original factory gaskets. There is no evidence anyone has been inside this engine since 1968. The bores in the block are smooth, no scoring or gouging, while all cylinders are dirty with carbon from running rich none show signs of oil burning. The timing chain is loose and will be replaced. Always drop your pan when you buy an old car! Not nearly as bad as I've seen but clean is better! Next steps are to replace the oil pump, crank seals and timing chain assembly. Edited June 28, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 12, 2021 Author Share Posted July 12, 2021 (edited) Picking away at the little stuff... I had to get to the cab light wiring to replace the old cab lights so while the headliner was out I polish the chrome and reinforced a few spots in the headliner that had cracked or had a fastener pull through. Edited July 19, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 12, 2021 Author Share Posted July 12, 2021 (edited) Got the windshield washer running also, gonna need that! It's a straight forward system, an easy victory. I'd be interested to see how they installed the washer fluid pump into the tank at the factory, hardest part is getting the filter screen screwed to the pump from inside the tank... The rest of the rubber hoses and plastic fittings are now replaced. Tested out great, ready to rock. I need to adjust the nozzles a bit so they hit the windshield a bit higher is all. Edited July 12, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 13, 2021 Author Share Posted July 13, 2021 (edited) Fixed the broken passenger side window crank, looks like it gave up the ghost eons ago... Gotta keep the Mrs happy! Meanwhile, the parts are accumulating... Edited July 19, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 19, 2021 Author Share Posted July 19, 2021 (edited) Continuing on with the little stuff... I got the distributor rebuilt, I redid it stock but may do a petronix install in the future once I get some baseline performance information. I had to find a new old stock points plate after the new production one (china) was so poorly made it wouldn't work. I also tackled the neutral safety switch. The gear selector had to be jiggled about to allow starting so a look into the NSS showed it was gunked up with some heavy scuffing. I found a NOS switch for a few dollars more than a new one. I'd rather pay more for NOS than deal with some of the junky repro parts out there. Installation went without a hitch. Edited July 19, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 19, 2021 Author Share Posted July 19, 2021 (edited) There was a strong smell of gas in the cab. Since #1 tank is behind the seat and the filler neck is 1' long it wasn't hard to find the problem.. New hose and fuel vapors faded and disappeared. I also replaced the outside grommet as it was shrunk and split too. Edited July 19, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 19, 2021 Author Share Posted July 19, 2021 (edited) The cab roof running lights were shot. Missing or broken lenses and bent internals abounded. The previous owner included a new set with the truck. Under the headliner is a factory harness with bullet connectors. It was a matter of soldering the correct connectors to the new lights and installing. The headliner was reinstalled with the now polished trim after the lights were tested and working. Edited July 19, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 Nice work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 23, 2021 Author Share Posted July 23, 2021 (edited) Roughed in a gauge holder for oil pressure/warning light/motor minder and added a tachometer... Edited July 23, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 24, 2021 Author Share Posted July 24, 2021 (edited) The arm rests were ratty so I pulled the old ones off and got some new ones, some junk hiding behind them but an easy cleaning. Also cleaned up the timing cover and replaced the front seal, a speedy sleeve on the pulley spacer where the seal rides as well. I've never used a speedy sleeve before, neat little device! For some more fun I picked up this old CB radio and installed it under the dash. Edited July 25, 2021 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted July 27, 2021 Share Posted July 27, 2021 I remember the days when it seemed like everyone had a CB. That's a really neat touch. I am enjoying your thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 27, 2021 Author Share Posted July 27, 2021 1 hour ago, ericmac said: I remember the days when it seemed like everyone had a CB. That's a really neat touch. I am enjoying your thread. It sounded like fun, don't know if I'll hear much on it... maybe by the highway? Rubber duck where are you? By the way... I talked with an acquaintance of yours two weeks ago at the Gilmore. I was there to take pictures of a chassis in storage when Fred started talking about this really nice Model T after he found out I'm a T guy. Long story short it was yours (I wanted to buy it so bad!). The Cadillac was a good choice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted July 27, 2021 Share Posted July 27, 2021 9 hours ago, Lahti35 said: It sounded like fun, don't know if I'll hear much on it... maybe by the highway? Rubber duck where are you? By the way... I talked with an acquaintance of yours two weeks ago at the Gilmore. I was there to take pictures of a chassis in storage when Fred started talking about this really nice Model T after he found out I'm a T guy. Long story short it was yours (I wanted to buy it so bad!). The Cadillac was a good choice! I take it you are a local (SW Michigan) guy. Would love to connect with another forum member. I'm going to take the Cadillac to GCM next Saturday for the Redbarn show. T guy too eh? Good choice as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 29, 2021 Author Share Posted July 29, 2021 On 7/27/2021 at 5:01 PM, ericmac said: I take it you are a local (SW Michigan) guy. Would love to connect with another forum member. I'm going to take the Cadillac to GCM next Saturday for the Redbarn show. T guy too eh? Good choice as well. I live over by the Saginaw Bay actually, I wish I lived by the Gilmore! That farmhouse by the entrance would suit me just fine. We'll be back down there again for some of their events though. We didn't have time to see it all that day since the HCCA was there too, lots of brass cars to take in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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