MCELLIOTT1957 Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 (edited) Hi, I recently obtained my very first pre 1950's car. I have a 1924 Dodge Brothers Touring car and according to the family, the motor was taken out and restored in 2000. They drove the car for a while and then put in storage. Early last year, they had to get the car from the storage place. It was then stored outside, under a tarp. I bought the car a few weeks ago. It is basically high 90's% original. When I bought the car, the carburetor and vacuum tank canister for the gas was missing and the horn and the wooden steering wheel. I bought a couple of carbs and a couple of tanks and horn and metal frame of steering wheel all off of ebay. I had also purchased a potpourri of books to learn of the car and how it works. I took the ignition lock out of the dash, and took it to the local locksmith to make a key. This car has a transmission lock on it and I need advise to how to remove the lock to have a key made for that as well. It is a Yale lock, cover. Any advise to help remove it from the transmission housing ,would be great. I also have an issue with trying to decide if this car is positive ground( I think it is) or negative ground. A battery cable is on top of generator, the other battery cable is attached to the transmission tail housing/support. This car is also equipped with what I believe is an oil filter canister mounted on the right side of motor, just above to the right of distributor. I have not seen any like this set up in any of the pictures and images that I see on the computer. I assume it is an oil filter, one bolt on top, once cover is off, there is a little wire handle that you use to pull up and out of the canister, so I assume this is the oil filter. The odd thing is, there is not any oil or residue of oil anywhere inside the filter or canister. But the car had sat in storage for almost 20 years, so maybe??????the oil simply drained into the motor??? My other observation of this canister, is it is plumbed with copper piping and one of the tubes is attached to the oil pressure guage in the dashboard. I know I have a lot of questions mixed within my new member intro, but any help with images, or opinions, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I always wanted an older car, like a model t type car or Duesenburg ( really out of my price range)so this has become my new adventure. Thank you. Edited June 3, 2021 by MCELLIOTT1957 Updating direct question (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 (edited) Positive ground 12 volts. For the ignition key, you just needed to look at the tumbler and number stamped on it (if it could be read). There are a number of sellers on eBay selling DB keys. "the oil simply drained into the motor???" On some filters, yes the oil can drain back into the engine then was refilled on start up. If you want to prime the system and pump, take off that hex cap behind the water pump and remove the ball check and spring to prime. Chances are at this point, the cork gasket under the lid of the oil filter is dried out and will need to be replaced along with the filter. Unless the transmission is now locked, maybe not worry about it at this point. At some point I am going to add a filter to my 1920. Edited June 3, 2021 by Mark Gregush (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCELLIOTT1957 Posted June 3, 2021 Author Share Posted June 3, 2021 Thank you for your response. I can still shift it ,so the lock on the transmission is unlocked. The locksmith that I took the ignition switch to, can read some part of the number that is stamped on the ignition cover plate and is doing what he can to make the correct one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCELLIOTT1957 Posted June 3, 2021 Author Share Posted June 3, 2021 Thank you for your response. I can still shift it ,so the lock on the transmission is unlocked. The locksmith that I took the ignition switch to, can read some part of the number that is stamped on the ignition cover plate and is doing what he can to make the correct one. Also, do you know what color the engine is supposed to be? I keep seeing grayish colors, greenish colors, black colors. I think I am going to aim for the grayish color for the most part and with the hopes that the brass and copper colors of the small parts would stand out. Just curious though of what it was or is supposed to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 This thread should help with the transmission lock. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/168906-transmission-lock/?tab=comments#comment-824554 Congrats on the purchase. It looks like it will clean up well. Luckily, carbs and vacuum tanks are not too hard to source. There are two vendors that specialize in the early Dodge parts; Myers Early Dodge and Romar. Just google 'em. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 Here is some information provided in the recent past regarding four cylinder engine colour. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke01 Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 My Hudson has a similar transmission lock. There is a number located close to the keyhole. I took that number to a locksmith and he cut me a working key on the spot. Zeke 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCELLIOTT1957 Posted June 4, 2021 Author Share Posted June 4, 2021 Thank you everyone for your knowledge and input. I really appreciate the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCELLIOTT1957 Posted June 4, 2021 Author Share Posted June 4, 2021 Hi 1930, you had mentioned a file for the key codes/blanks and etc for the transmission lock, may I please be sent a copy of that report as well? I am just a little older than you, my birthday is 01/14/1971! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted June 4, 2021 Share Posted June 4, 2021 (edited) 10 hours ago, MCELLIOTT1957 said: Thank you for your response. I can still shift it ,so the lock on the transmission is unlocked. The locksmith that I took the ignition switch to, can read some part of the number that is stamped on the ignition cover plate and is doing what he can to make the correct one. Also, do you know what color the engine is supposed to be? I keep seeing grayish colors, greenish colors, black colors. I think I am going to aim for the grayish color for the most part and with the hopes that the brass and copper colors of the small parts would stand out. Just curious though of what it was or is supposed to be. The ignition key number is not on the plate, it is right next to the slot on the outside face of the tumbler. More then likely, like almost 100% it is a Clum switch. Edited June 4, 2021 by Mark Gregush (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCELLIOTT1957 Posted June 4, 2021 Author Share Posted June 4, 2021 1 minute ago, Mark Gregush said: The ignition key number is not on the plate, it is right next to the slot on the outside face of the tumbler. Ok, thank you. I will call the locksmith tomorrow to inform him. It will help him out a lot. Thank you for your help. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCELLIOTT1957 Posted June 4, 2021 Author Share Posted June 4, 2021 1 minute ago, MCELLIOTT1957 said: Ok, thank you. I will call the locksmith tomorrow to inform him. It will help him out a lot. Thank you for your help. Would you happen to have an ignition key image so that I can share what one looks like to the locksmith. That would be very appreciated. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCELLIOTT1957 Posted June 4, 2021 Author Share Posted June 4, 2021 4 hours ago, Minibago said: Here is some information provided in the recent past regarding four cylinder engine colour. Thank you. It looks like the color I had in mind to paint it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCELLIOTT1957 Posted June 4, 2021 Author Share Posted June 4, 2021 4 hours ago, MikeC5 said: This thread should help with the transmission lock. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/168906-transmission-lock/?tab=comments#comment-824554 Congrats on the purchase. It looks like it will clean up well. Luckily, carbs and vacuum tanks are not too hard to source. There are two vendors that specialize in the early Dodge parts; Myers Early Dodge and Romar. Just google 'em. Thank you for your help. I appreciate it a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted June 4, 2021 Share Posted June 4, 2021 This is an early switch yours should be a later Clum type you can read the numbers DB47 stamped on the barrel face. The key is a one off shape which is unable to be reproduced here in Australia. First try Myers or Romar if you can read your number. Ebay do sometimes have keys for sale, blanks too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke01 Posted June 4, 2021 Share Posted June 4, 2021 Here are two concepts about transmission locks to consider. First, the lock operates by locking the transmission in neutral. Can you think of a situation where that would be desired? Second, what would happen if you locked the transmission in neutral and then couldn't get it unlocked? What then? I had a key made for my transmission just to have one. Tried it once to make sure it worked and then hung the key on a hook in the house never to be fooled with again. Zeke 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted June 4, 2021 Share Posted June 4, 2021 It is kind of bizarre that it locks the trans in neutral. I guess they were only trying to prevent someone from hopping in, hot wiring it and taking off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted June 4, 2021 Share Posted June 4, 2021 (edited) For ignition key here is an eBay seller that I have bought from. You may not get a key with DB as part of the number, but as long as it has the same number it should fit; https://www.ebay.com/itm/383693133294?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 There are other sellers on eBay, some with much higher prices but different numbers. The "DB" on the key before the number is nice but not necessary. Like the Ford Model T keys, there were only X number of tumblers used, so that key number would fit other cars with the same number. Edited June 4, 2021 by Mark Gregush (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
platt-deutsch Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 Give me the number on the lock and I will cut you a key for it. $10.00 for 2 and I pay the shipping.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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