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engine parts for 1929 one ton dodge truck motor model E


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What is condition of engine? Have you checked compression?

For a complete rebuild parts are available except for cam, rod, and main bearings. These are all Babbit bearings and to replace is expensive. Could be $3000 to $4000 dollars for bearings alone.

Where is NZ?

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Hi Pete, where are you in New Zealand? there is a guy in Invercargill who does white metaling, I know he is doing a dodge senior engine at the moment, he calls himself Rays Rebuilds phone number is 02102951296

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  • 2 weeks later...

Kia Ora Guys,

                       NZ is a little country by your standards just to the east of Australia,  thanks for the contacts for Rays Rebuilds, but all the Babbitt metals are in good shape.

Have ground valves and seats, they come up good, guides are tight, Bores good very small lip, pistons in good shape and have found a source for Head and upper gaskets, rings.

Started for first time in 25 yrs, valves stuck and badly corroded, head gasket leaked water into sump, stripped down and found enormous amount of sludge in block and sump, water galleries were totally blocked with rust scale, cleaned out and planned the head. Have been battling today trying to get valve springs back in, dont have proper side valve spring compressor, had to compress springs in vice and wire up , put in place and snipped the wires, will try and find proper tool or may lose collets trying to fit !  The exhaust manifold is broken in 2 places, will need welding.

Big job but very satisfying, good to start off my tenure with  cleaned block and   clean oil, will fit a modern screw on oil filter, new rings , valve grind and clean cooling system, also need new bearing in circulating pump. Am enjoying this project, would of liked to of removed block to make it easier to reassemble, but it looks like a real mission to remove, so will leave in frame.

Yr is 1929 one ton truck model E and yes the engine No is H111134,   I think that in your country they call them Hucksters, it is in amazing original condition with fabulous patina and i will keep it original and just go over it with some turps and linseed to fresh it up abit. This is the only dodge truck of its year and model that i,ve seen in NZ, are they a rare truck in the states ? and do you have a name for the type of cast wheel rims ?  it has no spare so need to source another rim. this is turning into an episal, will end it there and let you know how she runs.

Kind Regards,

Pete.

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I have a 3/4 ton stake bed “E” series truck. Engine # H79864 and frame number S114439. “S” means built in Stockton CA. USA.

The chassis were shipped overseas and a local fabricater finished the truck to desired request. What is your frame number?

The color and trim are all as from the factory. I believe all were this color.

They are rare because of the durability of the wood cab frame. Many were melted down for the war effort.

The tire rims are available thru Univeral Tire.

Post some pictures.

 

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Kia Ora Tom,

                       Thanks for your response, My chassis no is D221034 looking at the Serial guide sheet posted, the only one that seems to correspond is the JE-Bus 16 pass  2252-165 D-175590 with closing serial no D-237361  1928- 1932    Am I reading this right , it could of originally been a bus chassis.  It looks to have a longer wheel base than your truck.

Your truck looks like a real beauty, i especially like the opening front window screen, mine has the same color scheme, with the yellow wheels, ( are the wheel spokes Cast Iron ? )    and it has the same louvre heat control infront of radiator, ( except my louvres are vertical. ) I thought this must of been an after market tack on , but seeing yours with it, it must of been original.

Could you describe procedure to remove engine block, I have radiator out, it looks to me that you need to either unbolt gearbox and remove block with Bellhousing attached or remove G/box and fly wheel to get at lower bellhousing bolts ? is it a mission to remove bellhousing with the big cross members, do they foul up on the steering box ?

Could you give me a rough idea of what my truck would be worth in the US, it might make my cook feel better, she thinks that the $15,000 I paid for it was far too much. 

Thanks again for your advise,

Na mihi, ( Kind Regards. )

Pete.

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My sales manual calls the spokes "metal spokes" or a type of cast iron. The round shape of the bed would seam to indicate a bus. Would have been exported as a chassis with only fenders, hood and firewall. There were custom builders to complete truck as desired.  What is your wheelbase? Mine is 120" from front to rear hub.

Your truck looks to be in great shape. If you have a strong running engine a best guesstimate would be around $10,000 US.

I choose to leave the cross member in. First you remove the trans, then the flywheel and clutch. Be sure to mark location of flywheel bolts since the flywheel only fits one way on the crankshaft. Next you can remove the engine. 

Thanks for pictures. Do you have pictures of the engine?

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Kia Ora Tom,

                     Good news and bad news today, managed to locate a side value lifter  & was given contacts of a Dodge collector who is going to sell me a good exhaust manifold and some head studs.

this afternoon tried to hone the bore , my hone has parallel stones, they were tight at bottom of bore and not even touching the top third of bore, dont have measuring equipment , but it must have a huge amount of taper in the bore and as i.m concerned about porosity in number one cylinder, I might just bite the bullet , take the block out and have it rebored and sleeved , wasnt going to bother considering that it wont be doing that many miles, however i,m not happy with that much taper.

Is your truck a 4 or six cylinder ?     love the old Hit and Miss, engine on the stern deck, I have a couple of old stationary motors myself, one is an old English motor of about 6 hp horizontal, open crank,  single cyl with two large flywheels with curved spokes it has mechanical exhaust valve , inlet operates off suction, we think it is pre 1900 it has no makers name on it my old dad used to drive a saw mill with it they called it the "Old Bull Giant, ",  the web on the crank is hammer forged, like an old traction engine.

My other engine is an American engine ( narrow tyres on the flywheels ) is another open crank horizontal  called  a " Gopher, " the old man I got it off called it a, " Go forever engine !"

Thanks for the tips on removing the engine, will let you know how i get on.

Nga Mihi,

Pete.

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5 hours ago, petethedeep said:

Kia Ora Tom,

                     Good news and bad news today, managed to locate a side value lifter  & was given contacts of a Dodge collector who is going to sell me a good exhaust manifold and some head studs.

this afternoon tried to hone the bore , my hone has parallel stones, they were tight at bottom of bore and not even touching the top third of bore, dont have measuring equipment , but it must have a huge amount of taper in the bore and as i.m concerned about porosity in number one cylinder, I might just bite the bullet , take the block out and have it rebored and sleeved , wasnt going to bother considering that it wont be doing that many miles, however i,m not happy with that much taper.

Is your truck a 4 or six cylinder ?     love the old Hit and Miss, engine on the stern deck, I have a couple of old stationary motors myself, one is an old English motor of about 6 hp horizontal, open crank,  single cyl with two large flywheels with curved spokes it has mechanical exhaust valve , inlet operates off suction, we think it is pre 1900 it has no makers name on it my old dad used to drive a saw mill with it they called it the "Old Bull Giant, ",  the web on the crank is hammer forged, like an old traction engine.

My other engine is an American engine ( narrow tyres on the flywheels ) is another open crank horizontal  called  a " Gopher, " the old man I got it off called it a, " Go forever engine !"

Thanks for the tips on removing the engine, will let you know how i get on.

Nga Mihi,

Pete.

I don’t have much knowledge on rebuilding engines. Little help here but I would suggest getting new head studs. Used ones is risky .

mine is a “H” code engine or a six cylinder.

 

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