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Can I use ethanol gas?


Leland Davis

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Yes, no problem. Use regular. It will run lean, so re jetting the carb is in order. Lead wasn't common in ALL gas till the very late 30's so no additives are required. There is less energy in E10, thats why you need to make the adjustments. Low compression engines will not suffer any ill effects. Enjoy the car. 

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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Hopefully, you have the original Carter or the replacement Stromberg, and not the other original Chandler-Grove carburetor.

 

I would totally avoid ethanol gas if you have the Chandler Grove (early neoprene diaphragm economizer valve).

 

Either the Carter or the Stromberg would be compatible with the E-10.

 

Jon.

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The only problem with ethanol is, one, it is corrosive to rubber parts and gaskets, and two, it absorbs water.  The first problem is solved by using ethanol resistant parts in your fuel system.  Carburetor rebuild kits made today have ethanol resistant materials.  Replace any rubber fuel line with modern hose.  The second problem only becomes relevant when you store the gasoline for more than 3-4 months.  The ethanol can absorb enough water over a winter to cause it to phase separate from the gasoline.  Then it won't burn right and foul plugs.  What I do is when winter approaches, I run all the E10 out of the car and put about 15 gallons of non ethanol 91 gasoline.  There is a single source station on Long Island that sells it at 4.50/gallon.  Well worth it to get me through the winter.  Before that, I had to travel 2 hours up state to get non ethanol fuel.  It was that or use VP vintage leaded in 5 gallon metal containers at 80.00/can.

 

https://www.pure-gas.org/

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2 hours ago, carbking said:

Hopefully, you have the original Carter or the replacement Stromberg, and not the other original Chandler-Grove carburetor.

 

I would totally avoid ethanol gas if you have the Chandler Grove (early neoprene diaphragm economizer valve).

 

Either the Carter or the Stromberg would be compatible with the E-10.

 

Jon.



Chandler-Grove is a new one on me.........

Just assumed it was a Stromberg..........👍

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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Ed - Packard tried to make one work in 1937 and 1938 (and didn't). Plymouth tried to make one work in 1937 (and also didn't.

 

Ford was successful (with a two-barrel) which became the Holley type AA-1, normally referred to as the "94".

 

The Packard and Plymouth versions were single barrels.

 

Jon

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4 hours ago, MikeC5 said:

Isn't ethanol gas more prone to vapor lock?

By about ten times......

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My beef with the ethanol is the amount of water it releases as a by-product of combustion.  My car is a 1931 Buick and it has a fully functioning Marvel Heat Control System which involves connecting inner and outer (supply and return) exhaust pipes connecting the heat riser above the carberetor to the exhaust diverter valve above the exhaust pipe.  When I first started up on 10% ethanol I had water dripping and spraying out of the connecting pipe joints which splattered all over the engine and hood sills with the hood open,.  That simply does not happen with ethanol free fuel, it just stopped happening.  Immediately.  Knowing that rust is the biggest threat to the heat riser casting and the connecting pipes I just won't use it.  That water content also rusts any exposed steel parts like the gas tank and on my car since the previous restorer replaced the brass fuel line with steel it would be a victim over time.  

 

Modern cars are equipped with a litany of devices and features that allow them to tolerate ethanol fuels including but not limited to sealed fuel systems to keep ambient air away from the fuel (ever have a Service Engine Soon light come on and find out the reason was the gas cap was loose or absent?) high nitrile seals and gaskets on fuel system components, spark knock sensors to prevent preignition engine damage and so on and so forth.    Our cars will run on fuels with ethanol like I can drink booze like I did when I was a kid but it does have an negative effect over time...

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