'32 Plymouth PB

[Dale Pa]

I am having trouble with thee transmission hanging up in 3rd gear, after driving at back road speed, usually happens when I try to downshift, or even after a stop, won't go into any other gear, could it be an clutch adjustment, a linkage problem, or is it an internal gear or clutch problem? I have the Silver Dome 4 cylinder engine, car is showing 76000 miles, was rebuilt in the mid 60's.

[keiser31]

6 hours ago, Dale Pa said:

I am having trouble with thee transmission hanging up in 3rd gear, after driving at back road speed, usually happens when I try to downshift, or even after a stop, won't go into any other gear, could it be an clutch adjustment, a linkage problem, or is it an internal gear or clutch problem? I have the Silver Dome 4 cylinder engine, car is showing 76000 miles, was rebuilt in the mid 60's.

Is there any clutch release bearing noise?

 

[Dale Pa]

No, there isn't any noise, I had a mechanic check the linkage today, he say's it is very worn, there are 3 sets of double bars connecting the clutch pedal to the shaft on the left front of the transmission, this assembly is leaning outward to the drivers side, looks like a lot of wear in the pins and probably the holes in the bars, can't be sure without disassembly.the attached photo is looking to the rear from the engine compartment. Thanks,Dale

[ply33]

Looks very similar to the linkage on the 1933 PC and PD cars. For 1933 the pins are just clevis pins so easily replaced. The bars are pretty simple bar stock that could be reproduced at home with not much more than a jigsaw with metal blade, drill and file.

 

But it seems a little strange that it shifts okay when cold but not hot. I would not think a linkage issue would act that way.

 

When it “won’t go into any other gear” do you mean that the lever simply doesn’t move or that the gears grind a lot?

 

Looking at the nth generation illustration in my parts book, the late PA and PB transmission looks fairly similar to the one in my PD in that is uses constant mesh gears for 2nd and a sliding “dog clutch” without synchronizers for engaging 2nd & 3rd. I know that in my '33 the use of lightweight gear lubricant makes it hard to shift without grinding especially when it is fully warmed up. If grinding is your issue and it only occurs when fully warm you might want to try a heavier lubricant. If I recall correctly I am using SAE 140 in mine.

[Dale Pa]

Ok, thank you, I was thinking on the lines of making new bars, and replacing the pins to tighten it all up. As far as the lubricant in the transmission, one fella said use 90 weight gear lube, which I did, another fella said it would be better with non channeling gear lube, to slow the spinning gears faster. I am a gentle driver, I take my time, shift slow and let the gears mesh at low RPM's. it isn't the gears grinding that I'm worried about.  When the shifter sticks it is usually when trying to shift out of third gear, I drove about 10 miles through back roads this afternoon and it shifted fine. The times it did hang up were when I was on a slight upward grade at an intersection. I had the shifter out a couple months ago,  I saw the H pattern for the end of the shifter to move through, the old grease was hardened, I scraped it all off, cleaned all the moving parts, then regreased everything with wheel bearing grease, put it back together and it worked fine till this week. That was when I thought maybe the linkage could be the problem, maybe not getting full clutch movement because the linkage is so loose and worn,  before getting involved in tearing the transmission out. The 140 you are using is it readily available, what brand?  thanks again for the help, Dale

[ArticiferTom]

NAPA ,ebay and major company sell . this is one i get for my '31 Dodge . Sta-lube 140  also pic is Double Ott steering lube .

Edited May 22, 2021 by ArticiferTom (see edit history)

[Dale Pa]

Thank you, appreciate this

[ply33]

If I am reading correctly, it is not a matter of gears grinding but rather that the lever gets stuck in direct. Do I have that right?

 

The 1933/34 have a funky design where the shift tower and lever is mounted to a frame cross member and the lever extends into the transmission. I can’t tell from the image in my parts book and I have no service manual for the 1932, but it looks like it might be a similar design on your car. If so, then I think things could jam up if the rear engine mounts are sagging. But I don’t see how that could be related to how long you’ve been driving.

 

If the clutch is not releasing then it could be very difficult to move the shift lever out of gear. That can be tested by matching the engine speed exactly to the road speed so that there is no loading on the gears.

 

Does your transmission have freewheeling? If so another way to remove all force on the gears in the transmission it to engage it. With freewheeling engaged you should be able to shift freely between gears while moving with the engine idling regardless of the clutch engagement or condition.

 

With respect to gear lube, the stuff in my garage is Sta-Lube 140 gear lubricant and I got it at my local hardware store a while back. The stuff I have is for hypoid gears and says it is safe on yellow metal. Not sure about the PB, but there is no yellow metal in the PC or PD transmission or rear end/axle so I figure hypoid is safe in my car regardless.

 

Edit: The 1933 owners manual calls for “Freewheeling lubricant No. 110” in the transmission for temperatures above +40°F. I believe but have never been able to verify that SAE 110 would be the same viscosity only that the freewheeling specific lubricant would have had either some additives or be a higher grade lubricant than the off the shelf standard gear lube of the era. Since my local store did not have SAE 110 gear lubricant but did have SAE 140 and since I was having issues with gears grinding a little with SAE 90 despite my best double clutching efforts when the transmission was warm, I switched to the 140 and have been happy since.

Edited May 22, 2021 by ply33 (see edit history)

[Dale Pa]

yes , my car has the free wheeling, but the knob doesn't seem to want to move, since it is running, I didn't want to mess with it

[ArticiferTom]

That free wheeling is another whole ball of wax . There first design only lasted one year . There second attempt was better I guess . I do not have on my truck so cannot be much help .

  Talking off forum , and finding a repo BOI for you is going to help alot . I have to double clutch up and down and works smooth when warm with 140 . the BOI calls for 160 . But have not been able to find .  So Stay- lube 140  Founded in 1933 , I believe seems right .

 

Edited May 24, 2021 by ArticiferTom
spellin (see edit history)