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Resistance Wire


kdml
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Does the resistance wire running from the ignition under the dash, on a '65, serve any other purpose now that I have eliminated my distributor points?  I have an MSD distributor which requires 12volts at all times and I would like to bypass the resistance wire all together.

 

Thanks

Doug

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Use the resister wire hooked up to a relay to the coil.  This way you don't have to eliminate the wire & have the option of putting it back into service IF the MSD doesn't work out to your satifaction.

Just a thought.

 

Tom T.

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Does the 65 Riviera have an idiot light for the charging system? I can't remember. If it does you will have to power the idiot light from the relay also. Otherwise the engine will not shut off.

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Doug,

 

    The 12 volt, hot wire, for the relay works only with the key turned on.  In the relay case use the yellow wire for the kickdown to power the relay & the resistor wire to trigger the relay. Only one wire needs to be cut & spliced & you could mount the relay on the firewall or some other place you feel comfortable with.

    And yes it has an idiot light for the charging system.

 

Tom T.

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EDIT: OK - I found the answer at PerTronix webpage and updated this question for other with the same question:

"A resistor wire or ballast resistor may or may not be included in the original equipment.

They are not to be changed in any way with the installation of the PerTronix Ignitor System"

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Thanks all.  After looking up under the dash to figure out how to bypass the resistance wire, I went the relay route, as Tom suggested.  Much easier to work in the engine compartment as compared to under the dash.

 

Thanks again

Doug

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3 hours ago, kdml said:

Thanks all.  After looking up under the dash to figure out how to bypass the resistance wire, I went the relay route, as Tom suggested.  Much easier to work in the engine compartment as compared to under the dash.

 

Thanks again

Doug

 Doug,

  Just my opinion, take it for what it`s worth, but I would create an independent circuit to supply battery + to the ignition relay instead of piggy backing onto an existing circuit with other components. If you tap into the kickdown switch circuit to supply battery + to the ignition relay, the wiper motor will also be on that circuit. If the kickdown switch or wiper motor overload the fuse you will also lose power to the added ignition relay resulting in a breakdown situation. There`s no need for the battery supply to the ignition relay to be key switched. Run a new wire from the battery cable/horn relay junction block to the ignition relay for a battery + feed. If you prefer, install an inline fuse that is readily accessible for this part of the circuit. As Tom suggested, you can use the original ignition switched resistant/coil wire to control the relay, or run a new wire with no resistance in the circuit directly from the ignition switch to the ignition relay. Personally, I`d be more comfortable running a new wire from the switch instead of the reduced voltage circuit which already exists because the resistant wire is prone to failure and full system voltage to the control circuit of the ignition relay is best.

Tom M

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Thanks Tom

 

I actually installed the relay on Friday night, before I even saw Tom T's message.

 

My connection to the battery is a dedicated wire connected to the junction block on the drivers inner fender, with an inline fuse.  However, I did use the original pink ignition wire, that ran to the coil, which connects to the resistance wire at the firewall; instead of running all the way to the ignition switch.

 

Everything is working as expected with the new distributor.

 

Thanks  

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There is so little amperage drawn for the ignition there's no worry about overloading the fuse unless there's something in the wiper or downshift circuits that are the ones actually drawing excessive amperage.

Just my thoughts. I've been doing like I have explained with NO adverse affects that I know of for many years.

 

Tom T.

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