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For Sale: 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe sedan "Edna" - $3,700 - Puyallup, WA - Not Mine - SOLD!


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For Sale: 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe sedan "Edna" - $3,700 - Puyallup, WA - SOLD!

1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle... (craigslist.org)

All original mint green "Edna" Runs, starts, drives, stops, collector plated.  265 flathead with semi-automatic fluid drive.  Has newer water pump, newer rebuild on the radiator and of course newer hoses. Newer tires and new brake cylinders and shoes on the front. New battery 6v and rebuilt carb. Gas tank has been cleaned out. To be complete would need fan shroud, but it hasn't stopped me from driving around for fun.  odometer: 85000

Contact:  call or text:  (253) 2-4-one-five-3-3-5

Copy and paste in your email:  ab43ba49b1943af2b217dfbcd2128f0a@sale.craigslist.org
I have no personal interest or stake in the eventual sale of this 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe sedan "Edna".

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Edited by 58L-Y8
SOLD!!! (see edit history)
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16 hours ago, The 55er said:

That's a 1952 Chrysler, not a 1953.

 

(Or is it a '51? I can't tell.) It's my theory that when the seller is off on the year of the car, the chances are good there's no title for it.  I could be wrong...the car apparently has "collector plates," but I don't know what the legal requirements are in Washington state.

Edited by JamesR (see edit history)
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Various states, at one time, registered the car model year with the calendar year in which it was sold new regardless of what the manufacture designated it.  If this Chrysler was a leftover 1952 that finally sold new in 1953 in a state where that regulation was policy would explain why this is registered as a 1953 model.

 

Hey, this is a reasonably-priced collector car that can be buffed-up, sorted and enjoyed without mortgaging the house...and its named "Edna"!  

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3 hours ago, supercub said:

How does the transmission work, you have to shift it or us it like a dynaflow?

 

As the Chrysler literature stated at the time, it's "the only semi-automatic transmission equipped with a 'Safety Clutch.'"  It takes some getting used to, but a very reliable set up based on my experience with a '48 Windsor.

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10 hours ago, Wonderingeye said:

I'm actually supposed to go look at this car, Never owned one what are something I should be looking for that would make me turn and run.

Just the usual, body and frame rust damage, how well it starts and drives, how well the transmission work, what shape the wiring is.

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The semi auto trans actually has 4 forward speeds in 2 different ranges (high and low and rumor is 2 ranges in reverse so a 6 speed?). It will look like like a 3 on the tree which it is not.  You don't have a first. Low range is where 2nd would be and 3rd gear is the high range.  Reverse is reverse.  Fluid drive means you can come to a stop leaving it in gear.  Starting out in high range on flat ground you just let your foot off the gas for a second or two at around 16-19 mph and wait to hear/feel a little CLUNK as it drops into the 2nd gear of the high range.  Coming to a stop it will down shift into the lower gear of the range selected automatically. You then repeat. Starting on a hill or want a little more pep then start in low range and at about 5 mph let off the gas and it will shift, you'll then need to use the clutch to get into high range and repeat the "foot off the gas" sequence for that range.  Normally I just keep it in high range. It launches fine.  I would not mind having this car for work. Parts are easy and everywhere. I take my 50 Chrysler Windsor Newport coupe to work at 60 mph regularly.

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looked at the car and ended up buying it. The only thing I don't understand is previous owner said one day the brake fluid was low so he added some now the taillights and turn signals don't work. when you turn the battery on the driver side brake light will come on for a second then turn off. had one reverse light while backing off the trailer for a second but not the whole time.

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On 5/10/2021 at 11:02 AM, JamesR said:

 

(Or is it a '51? I can't tell.) It's my theory that when the seller is off on the year of the car, the chances are good there's no title for it.  I could be wrong...the car apparently has "collector plates," but I don't know what the legal requirements are in Washington state.

It's a 52 identified by the style of tail/backup lights.

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5 hours ago, supercub said:

Interesting. If you were starting out in low range you could run through all four gears, or drive in high and do the one auto shift.

From a practical, rather than a theoretical, standpoint, you can go 1-3-4 or 1-2-4 but not all four speeds.  2nd (upper gear of low range) is very close to 3rd (lower gear of high range).  Let's say if you go 1-2-4, you start in low range position, let it up shift to 2, then by the time you're shifting to high range, you're above the speed threshold for upshifting to 4th.  Similarly, if you start in 1st (lower gear of low range) and move the selector to high range before the 1-2 upshift threshold, your speed will be in 3rd gear range below the 3-4 upshift threshold.  Got that?  Ready for the quiz?  🙂

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3 hours ago, Wonderingeye said:

looked at the car and ended up buying it. The only thing I don't understand is previous owner said one day the brake fluid was low so he added some now the taillights and turn signals don't work. when you turn the battery on the driver side brake light will come on for a second then turn off. had one reverse light while backing off the trailer for a second but not the whole time.

 

Congratulations!  I'm not sure what your electrical problem is, but it's hard to see how it could be related to adding brake fluid.  I'm guessing you've got a loose connection somewhere in the system.  Good luck with the car and be sure and keep us posted!

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  • 58L-Y8 changed the title to For Sale: 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe sedan "Edna" - $3,700 - Puyallup, WA - Not Mine - SOLD!
4 hours ago, Wonderingeye said:

looked at the car and ended up buying it. The only thing I don't understand is previous owner said one day the brake fluid was low so he added some now the taillights and turn signals don't work. when you turn the battery on the driver side brake light will come on for a second then turn off. had one reverse light while backing off the trailer for a second but not the whole time.

Congratulations!  You'll be able to work out the wiring problems, they're usually a matter of loose or tarnished connections or poor ground.  Please keep us apprised of your progress with "Edna Windsor"!.

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6 hours ago, supercub said:

Interesting. If you were starting out in low range you could run through all four gears, or drive in high and do the one auto shift.

Yes, you can just put it in high range where 3rd would be and drive like it is a 2 speed with a semi auto shift (foot off gas at 16-19 mph and count to 2) and just repeat every time you come to a stop OR feel it down shift if slowing below 10 mph to make a turn.

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3 hours ago, Wonderingeye said:

looked at the car and ended up buying it. The only thing I don't understand is previous owner said one day the brake fluid was low so he added some now the taillights and turn signals don't work. when you turn the battery on the driver side brake light will come on for a second then turn off. had one reverse light while backing off the trailer for a second but not the whole time.

Bulb contacts and bulb bases need cleaned. Grounds super critical on 6 volts.  Check the rubber hoses on the brake lines. They will swell on the inside and not allow pressure to release hence holding on the brake lights. If he is adding fluid look at each inside Wheel for fluid. Bet it is time to do all 6 wheel cylinders and the brakes.  Remember reverse threads on one side for the lugs.  Should be stamped "L" and "R".

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4 hours ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

Bulb contacts and bulb bases need cleaned. Grounds super critical on 6 volts.  Check the rubber hoses on the brake lines. They will swell on the inside and not allow pressure to release hence holding on the brake lights. If he is adding fluid look at each inside Wheel for fluid. Bet it is time to do all 6 wheel cylinders and the brakes.  Remember reverse threads on one side for the lugs.  Should be stamped "L" and "R".

Ended up getting all the turn signals working. Kinda helps if they actually had bulbs in them. Apparently the previous owner had done the front brakes but not the rear. Got too hot out and we called it a day.

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