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Wanted. U joint for 1917 DBRoaster with cast Aluminum Transmission housing


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I have 3 U-joints still on transmissions but are a bit later came off 1920 and 21 engines. How loose are the bushings on yours? Do you need the whole assemble or just the ring? There is another guy looking for just the splinted piece that mounts to the transmission output shaft. I could contact him also and sell just the part he needs and sell the ring

 

adding;

The bushings on the ones I have are steel. The OD of the bushing is approx 1.126. If your bushings are good, you could clean up the one, and the rings/clamps should work let me know.

Mark

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John, a good famer could fix that. I checked my early parts book and the same u-joint by part number  was used until at least late '16. Assembly is 2506. But if they changed anything like bushing material it would have gotten a new number, MAYBE. If I can get to the AACA library I will check the '17-'18 parts books. The Master Parts books may not show all the changes. And they would eliminate the early number if it was superseded. doug

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Posted (edited)

Plus there is a front and back if it is like that later ones I have. The front (transmission side) on mine are slotted to keep the head of the bolt from turning. I will have to look at mine, but think each section might have a different number on it.

Edited by Mark Gregush (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

The rings I have set aside for him have a factory forging/drawing number of 5058 but the cut above show a part number of 5222. Which could be a carry over from working with Ford. Most all the parts on a Model T have a different number on them then the parts catalog.

 

At what car number does the master parts list show the new style(5223) started and do the foot notes show the newer style as an in service replacement for the earlier cars? When the newer style was introduced it may have had brass bushings which were changed to steel at some point, so would only require 1 part number change. For example adding a "B" to the number.

Edited by Mark Gregush (see edit history)
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Thanks for the responses. I compared the u joint from my 17 with alum housing to stamped steel transmission and here is what I noticed

17 u joint has brass bushing. Later transmission has steel

bushings. bushing appear to be the same dimension and I think I interchangeable. The only difference I found is one yoke is shorter than other. The 2 universal  housings are totally different. 17 has 7 bolt holes. When I get home will post more details. I think I am going to repair mine.

 

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15 hours ago, Machinist_Bill said:

thanks for the post Bill.the parts diagram is very helpful. I guess the question is “are ujoints b2506 and b5223 interchangeable in a b 7281 housing? I have both ujoints on my bench and will try and figure that out today or tomorrow. I know the yokes on torque tube side are different lengths. Will post later. Thanks ,John

 

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So here’s what I found.

B5057 yoke on B5223 u joint is about 0.400” inch longer than 

B1507 yoke on B2506 u joint

all other dimensions on all other parts are the same

B5233 has steel type bushings

B2506 has brass type

i believe you can use the longer yoke on older cars ( tried it and seems to fit, Mark’s  idea).

you may be able to use older ujoint on newer cars but torque tube shaft would be in ujoint housing 0.400” less. Might or might not cause trouble

Heres what I did. My older style lock ring and bushing had minor damage so put newer style with original yokes. Seems to have nice tight fit. Going to try and rename thread to 17 ujoint repair info.image.jpg.b59356df09bf07231cae41509725c7ef.jpg
thanks to all for there help and expertise, John

 

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Apparently I am wrong. I do not have a 2506 u joint. 2506 does not have bushing and the parts are not interchangeable with b5233. Thanks Harry Reding for this correction.

One U joint I have has yoke casting number db 161 on transmission yoke. Really can’t read other numbers clearly. I repaired the u joint that came out of car and hopefully will be fine.

I apologize for the misinformation And confusion, John

 

image.jpg

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John, stamped or cast in numbers usually do not match part numbers. DB did crazy stuff just to confuse us. If you can I would think you would want one with bushings. I know you won't drive THAT much but at least they could be replaced in another 100 years. 

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Update. Finished up transmission install today and drove car about 10 miles. Shifted a lot better than before. Only issue I’m having is clutch disengages right before pedal hits firewall. Trying to figure out why. 

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