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Pat's 1930 Buick Model 47


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Hi All,  My father didn't live long enough to complete his 1930 Buick Model 47.    The car was all apart and I decided in October of 2020 to move forward with the brakes and steering.   He had completed the frame, leaf springs, and axles.   The motor works and we reconfigured it with a downdraft Rochester to get the motor running.      I have completed the wheels, brakes, suspension, steering, trans, and will soon place the engine.    

 

I’m Andy and my brother in the picture below is Dave.  I have been doing the restore mostly, while Dave takes on some odd tasks.  He built the device used to mount the router when I did the steering wheel as well as the gear reduction box that turned the engine off the crank hole prior to our starting attempts.  

 

At the moment, the brakes, suspension, wheels, transmission are done and we are working on carburetor connection, radiator, charging and we have begun to place the body parts while accessing what we need to build. 

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I put up a bunch of picks of the project so far.  As you can see I have located, and cleaned many of the brake parts and most are staged on the car.   At the moment, we are having to get the trans ready to stage.  It's not in great condition having been dry for many years.    I built a tool to take the bend out of brake back plate and pull the steering wheel.    My brother build a tool to reinstall brake return spring, turn the generator on our drill press and a jig to hold the steering wheel so I can make a new wood grip for it.    These projects are in progress.  

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Edited by Patrick 1930 Buick
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The rear set of shackles on the front springs are actually rear shackles.    while these look okay, we will want to put the actual ones since the bolt sizes are different and two jam nuts will be needed.    If you look back through the pictures, you will observe we had the back plate in a frame to remove a one inch bend. 

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We are working on restoring the steering wheel.  The first task was to remove it from the steering column after 90 years which required cracking the nut and a custom puller.  If anyone is interested, the  puller picture is shown above.   Since the wood parts are long gone, we are going to build our own which must be assembled to the spokes.  

Edited by Patrick 1930 Buick (see edit history)
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  • 1 year later...

Patrick:

 I would check with Calimers Wheelwright shop in Waynesboro Pa. 

I just had to make up some better hub bolts and nuts for a 1927 wheel I am using on my 1925 Buick Standard.

DSC00576.JPG.1b2b4ec97aa918b0e9daa8e3414666c8.JPGRestoration Supply has them with the higher head 3/8" X 16 X 2 1/2" lg. At least that is what those on the  1927 wheels took.

 

 

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I have a question and looking for advice.  If you look at the front right wheel, I think the axle is bent out a bit.   Is this something that can be fixed, and how do I get it done?  Thanks

 

Follow up Oct 30, 2022

I communicated with Sid Drapal of droppedaxles ( https://droppedaxles.com ) and this is his advice. 

 

“The axle can be bent cold if you have a way to hold it down. We [Droppedaxles] bend the axles hot. We [Droppedaxles] heat area to be bent to popsicle orange. Then we bend them. You want to make sure the axle cools as slow as it can.”

 

I am going to prepare for a cold bend and try to correct the camber.    While, I prepared for cold bend, I felt a hot bend was safer as the cold forces would have been intense.  I used an engine hoist,  a 16K cable,  some square stock with many c-clamps and a fire-box made of sand and steel plates.  A 500K propane torch got it hot as hell.  One of my metal plates was aluminum,  once it started to drip I had no choice but apply force with the hoist.  I used a tube with water to measure the left spindle against the right.  

Edited by Patrick 1930 Buick (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/15/2022 at 3:11 PM, Patrick 1930 Buick said:

For the wheel hub bolts,  model-t had long carriage bolts that can be sourced from https://www.modeltford.com

Item Number: RMB-BOLT

 

If a few weeks, look back and I will update this post with a picture.  

The bolt head height is a little smaller, so I would replace all of them on a wheel to keep it uniform.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

Im looking for a few parts:  brake drum bearing and seal parts:  thrust washer front bearing,  dust/oil seal for front and rear drums, oil seal retainer parts rear drum.  See picks to compare available parts.  Tire bolts, nuts and wedges. See Pic.  Oil seal fan-belt pully.  

 

Im trying to understand how to rebuild the fan oiler.  It appears theres a seal near the mounting bracket and I don’t know how to repair or what I can do.  It looks like some kind of rope can be wrapped and packed.  Has anyone ever restored the fan oiler.

 

any advice would be appreciated.  Thanks

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Patrick: This is what my original 1925 fan-hub looked like as far as the interior.

 

DSCF1722.JPG.840c128c56565ebc517176744fe91cf2.JPG Similar to the design of yours but you have a step for a V belt.

I made a new center shaft and a solid aluminum hub bored out on the ends to use modern sealed bearings.

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DSCF1725.JPG.9eb29331881a6379e7789ce6750b43e5.JPG Mine takes a flat belt.

 

 BOB'S had them for various years.

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  • 2 months later...

Fixing the Drop Axle!   After some research, We decided to fix the drop axle.   Research suggested we could do it hot or cold.   The driver side camber was fine, so we decided to bring the passenger side to be the same or at least close.   The wheel obviously leaned out.  The axle is mounted and clamped on the engine hoist as close to the fulcrum as possible.  The hardest part was to figure out how much of a correction and to monitor the fix while it was hot.   We went simple by leveling the axel and using a water filled tube attached to the spindle end.    As kids, my father had called the tube with water an Egyptian water level.  I felt confident this would have been what he would do since this is his car, his barn, his tubing and his dream.   We observed a 3/8 inch required correction at the tip of the spindle.  We used a 500K btu propane torch to heat it.  With metal plates and sand packed around the axle we made a fire box to focus the heat and protect work area.  It took about 6/7 min before one of our aluminum heat shields started to melt, so before it failed, we used the engine hoist to pull it up.   The fire box was covered with fiberglass insulation to permit slow cooling.  

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Edited by Patrick 1930 Buick (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Installed engine, transmission, attached drive,  and brake linkages.    My father had made some of the wood components and left them for us to complete and install.   Next steps are to complete the cooling, exhaust, fuel, mechanical and minimal electrical.    

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Edited by Patrick 1930 Buick (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...

Started prepping the radiator and fuel tank.  The radiator was perfect except I will need to resolder the top filler tube.  The fuel tank is seriously bent and rusted through.  Although I tried to fix it,  I thinking if I can’t find a reasonable replacement,  I may need to put a fuel cell inside.   This would keep the original look and provide a place for the electric fuel pump.  This is one of those things the next owner can bring it into compliance and not slow me down.     I have another radiator which is seriously in need for repair, but if anyone has nothing, I could part with it.

 

  Follow up: Sadly, both radiators are no good and we will have to place an after market radiator to keep the project moving forward.   

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Edited by Patrick 1930 Buick
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Making a tank isn’t that hard, and it’s so small, you won’t want to make any changes from stock. You can probably just make two or three big patch panels and weld them to the end caps if they are good.

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