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Aussie 1930 Chrysler 66 Tourer Restoration.


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2 hours ago, 1930 Kram66 said:

Yes Ron it only took a 8 hour drive to find a good set of cat walks, who doesn't like a road trip.😊

Cheer's Mark

Mark I would have done 10,000 ks looking for bits and pieces for my old girl The catwalks were all rusted like mine so I had no choice but to reproduce 2 new ones I sill  have the jig that I made to do the job just in case some other Dodgey person needs some down the track 

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5 hours ago, Ron Lawson said:

Mark I would have done 10,000 ks looking for bits and pieces for my old girl The catwalks were all rusted like mine so I had no choice but to reproduce 2 new ones I sill  have the jig that I made to do the job just in case some other Dodgey person needs some down the track 

Ron,

I suppose we all have done lots of miles tracking down parts for our projects, sometimes you get what you need, other times not so much.

Like the time I rang a gentleman who lived in the very small town of Winton, near Deniliquin ( Western NSW) from a advert in Restored Cars Magazine, I asked about the parts he was selling, he said all the right answers- he seemed to understand , he said he even owned a Chrysler 66 - what could possibly go wrong.  Long story short - drove 8hrs to get there only to find out what he was selling was not what the ad said.  His wife came over and said that her husband has a few memory problems and that she was very sorry that I drove all that way for nothing, So what do you do ? She offered me a cuppa and a very nice homemade coconut slice - I spent the hour or so listening and looking at old photo's of  some of their  adventures in their Chrysler  66 Sedan - turns out they drove it pretty much around Australia back in the early 70's . 

It was a long trip home empty handed but somehow it wasn't that bad after all.

 

Cheer's Mark

 

 

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On 3/7/2022 at 10:20 AM, viv w said:

Your car is coming on nicely Mark. Just one thing, I see you have what looks like a paper air cleaner on your carb, this may cause your car to run rich, but also those paper air cleaners are prone to catching fire, especially if it floods and backfires. The Model A Ford guys advise not to use them and preferably get a wire mesh one instead.

Viv

Thank you for the heads up on the air cleaner. I was just being lazy .... I do not have the correct style air cleaner, also there is not much room between the throat of the carby and the steering box. So fitting anything in there is a problem.

That boy racer air cleaner is only 3inches round and I had to push one side in to get it to fit. It was always going to be a temporary arrangement while I am test running the engine, and yes it was running rich with that cleaner on.

One day I hope to find a correct style air cleaner, in the mean time I going to go with a different set up using a remote air cleaner/ spark arrestor that is more period correct. ( sort of)

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I made a mounting bracket and a sleeve to allow me to use the same size air tube from the carby to the remote air cleaner

 

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I mounted it in two holes that were already drilled in the fire wall ( bonus)

 

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Just waiting for a flexible air tube to air to connect the carby to the air cleaner.

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 Cheer's Mark

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Still raining here..... no good for spraying primer, the right guard/fender/wing is ready for that, so I had some free time yesterday,  Instead I wrapped the exhaust pipe with heat insulating tape.....  Sad isn't it.😐

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It definitely helps with heat radiated on the bowl of the fuel pump. 

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Cheer's Mark.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Some more progress..... Rear guards/fenders.

Mounted both rears on my mobile body work bench, next was sanding the white epoxy mostly off, followed by a little hammer and dolly work then lastly applying a skim coat of filler to the exposed metal. 

After hours of sanding filler, plus a coat of black epoxy primer they were ready to temporarily bolt back on the car to do the first round of block sanding on.

After that was done I removed them from the car and sprayed black epoxy on the underside of both guards, headlight tie bar and two small filler pieces. With some luck the weather will be good tomorrow so I hope to get some black epoxy on the top side's of each guard to seal them back up.

Cheer's Mark

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Over the last three weeks I have finally managed to get all the chassis sheet metal filled ,sanded and sprayed with 2 coats of epoxy primer.

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Next will be working towards finishing the underside of all of these parts, firstly high build primer then block sanding followed by satin black 2-pac paint.

Also for some time now I have been slowly dismantling the body to allow me to remove it from the chassis for final bodywork and painting.

This happened last weekend. ( have not been looking forward to this).  😐

I braced the body by bolting a piece of steel flat bar from the A pillar to the rear tub belt rail timber, also bolting it to the main centre brace timber and C pillar in the rear.

Using my shop crane at the rear and a timber gantry I knocked up, lifting from near the front of the body, the lift went surprising well and I got the body safely on the dolly.😀

 

 

 

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Cheer's Mark

Edited by 1930 Kram66
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  • 1 month later...

Since last time I have been busy preparing the inside of the door openings and the inside of the door frames for epoxy primer undercoat. The weather was fine today so I got  2 coats on all the prepared surfaces of the door openings.😊

I hope to spray undercoat on the inside of the door frames in a day or so.

Also have been cleaning up all the door locks and strikers- I sprayed them with etch primer. 

In unrelated news, a few weeks ago I noticed a fluid leak on the floor of the garage where I park the rolling chassis ( I start the engine and drive the chassis out of the garage so I can work on the body. Upon further investigation I found  brake fluid was coming out of the back of the master cylinder 😐, filling the rubber boot that the push rod from them pedal goes into. Strange thing was that the brakes still worked fine. I removed the master cylinder and found that the secondary cup had failed. I ordered a new repair kit and replaced both cups and valve just to be sure. ( picture shows my spare master cylinder after a week in evaporust -I decided to recondition it while I was at it.)

Cheer's Mark

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

As many of you know the Eastern seaboard of our fine country has been well and truly drenched with rain for most of this year.  So this last few weeks I found myself looking for indoor activities to  focus on, so I turned my attention to finalising the fit of the windscreen frame and posts to keep things moving forward.

Some time back I got new rubber gaskets for the windscreen posts from a local rubber supplier, however  I wasn't  happy with the way they fitted or didn't fit in this case. I just could not get them to sit properly on the curve of the cowl so I decided to make my own. I got some 1inch thick rubber and went to town on my belt/disc sander and knocked up a new pair. I got them near to final shape but they still need a bit of finish work before I call them done.

Cheer's Mark

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Thanks for tips. I have to make a pair for my '31 CD8 Roadster, plan to paint car black and that will help make the rubber pads less obvious. I roughed these out from firm 1/4" rubber, first by tapering to fit under stanchion evenly, and then by creating outside shape by simply extending the curvature of the stanchion. I'll probably do the final ones with a softer rubber to ensure a decent seal when stanchion gets firmly bolted down. I don't like look of factory ones (see green car). They were quite large and obvious, and have a recess for stanchion to fit into with a 3/8" surrounding. I prefer the flush look. Getting the windshield wiper vacuum tube up driver side is also a challenge with the pad. I note the green car is missing the weatherstrip on bottom of window, I plan to delete this as well as car will be a "fine weather" ride!

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Edited by Gunsmoke
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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick update on progress since last time.....

Finally got to spray a couple of coats of epoxy primer on the floor and the internal wood frame on the body, as well as the inside of the doors.😊

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I also got some epoxy on the back of the dash, windscreen frame, door jamb parts and the tray that lives under the front seat.

 

 

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Cheer's Mark.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Since last time I have been busy working on the rear tub section of the body. 

I started with filling and sanding the belt line moulding - a very tedious task, from one side around to the other starting and stopping at the back door's. 

Once that was decent I masked the bead body line, then filled and sanded the complete rear tub section continuing around the corners on to the rear quarter panel on both sides.

Then put a guide coat on for the next round of sanding.

Next will be filling and sanding the doors and finally the front cowl.

Cheer's Mark.

 

 

 

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Did not have to go to work today☺️, so I spent the morning tiding up the door gaps on the driver's side of the body. Still have have to address the top of the door's yet.

 

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I lost interest in doing more body work after lunch so I turned my attention to fixing my Fedco I.D plate- somebody in the past thought it would be good to drill a couple of holes in it 😐.

Anyway, I cleaned it up and mounted it on a block of timber, next I ground the heads down on a couple of small bolts and made a simple jig to hold them at the correct spacing to match the factory mounting holes in the dash. With them in the right spot I soldered them to the plate. Then spent some time cleaning up the face and finally Nickle plating it.

 

Cheer's Mark

 

 

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Edited by 1930 Kram66
Poor spacing (see edit history)
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The never ending story continues .....

As the day's are starting to get longer now, I got a bit more body work done on the driver's side of the body after work during the past week. (yippee 😀)

90% of the driver's side is now filled out and sanded to 80grit. 

Cheer's Mark

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On 8/22/2022 at 8:05 AM, 1930 Kram66 said:

Did not have to go to work today☺️, so I spent the morning tiding up the door gaps on the driver's side of the body. Still have have to address the top of the door's yet.

 

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I lost interest in doing more body work after lunch so I turned my attention to fixing my Fedco I.D plate- somebody in the past thought it would be good to drill a couple of holes in it 😐.

Anyway, I cleaned it up and mounted it on a block of timber, next I ground the heads down on a couple of small bolts and made a simple jig to hold them at the correct spacing to match the factory mounting holes in the dash. With them in the right spot I soldered them to the plate. Then spent some time cleaning up the face and finally Nickle plating it.

 

Cheer's Mark

 

 

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nice work

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8 hours ago, Gunsmoke said:

Those 4 door touring bodies are a big challenge to keep everything in line, nice work. What do you have under it to keep everything straight, rigid and avoid twists?

In fact it is  like a  giant wet noodle if not properly supported 😀.

Before I removed the body from the chassis I added some internal bracing in the body to help keep it rigid while on the dolly. Also the timber frame that sits on top of the dolly is made in the form of an "I" section, so it is quite stable. I will be placing the body back on the chassis before I put any colour on it - just to make sure all is good.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Since last time I have applied the first coat of high build primer to the body ☺️. Then spent many hours sanding most of it off 😐 ... not really, it just seems like that.

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Round one block sanding has shown a few high and low spots.... they should go away with the second coat of primer and more block sanding.

Almost ready for round two.

Cheers  Mark

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Since last time I have sprayed the second coat of high build primer and block sanded to 180grit. 

This round of sanding showed up a few area's that needed a little more filler work. Most of the high area's shown in the last post have gone away.

I am using Clausens All-U-need Primer, it sprays on well using a 2.0mm fluid tip and sands out very easily.

Waiting for a break in the weather for the third and final coat of high build.

Cheers Mark.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, where are we up too... That's right, I've sprayed the third coat of All-U-Need primer on. ☺️ yippee.

Before I commence to rubbing on the body again, I thought it would be a lot of fun to refit the body to the chassis again- why!  I hear you asking, well for two reasons -

Firstly I wanted to have a practice run of getting the body back on the chassis without causing any damage to the body or for that matter me  😐.

I was not happy with my previous set up for lifting the body so I came up with a different idea. This time I lifted the body from it's balance point- after fitting some internal bracing to the body to make it rigid.

Using a come along secured to the windscreen post mounting brackets I could easily raise the front of the body up to allow the gear stick and hand brake to clear the lower edge of the front cowl, however I still had to unbolt the steering box from the chassis and lay it between the clutch and brake pedal.

Secondly I also wanted to re-bolt the body down as if for the final time, just to make sure the door and bonnet alignments were still good -read acceptable.   As it turns out I had to re-shim the body ( at the rear)  to allow clearance for the fuel tank cover. ( Not enough space for the cover to fit under the back of the body).

As a result of that change I ended up adding a extra shims at all the other mounting points, to keep the door's  and bonnet fitting correctly.

Cheers Mark.

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Edited by 1930 Kram66
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  • 1 month later...

Since last time I have completed the final round of block sanding on the body, doors and all the bonnet parts - yippee ☺️.

I had to do a small repair to the left side bonnet- A small high spot I missed- nothing a little work with a shrinking disc and a little filler would not fix.

With everything sanded I removed the body from the chassis again to allow me to spray a couple of coats of epoxy sealer to the body, doors and bonnet parts. Happy that everything is sealed up at last.

Also since my last post I have been busy converting my garage into a spray booth of sorts. I removed as much stuff as I could and set up a extractor fan/air filter and some lighting, all very Heath Robinson. But it works well enough removing the overspray and fumes from the garage. - my next door neighbour appreciates it as well 😐

This is my last post for the year- Merry Christmas and enjoy the holiday's, I know I will.

Cheers Mark.

 

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  • 1 month later...

To ease back into working on the car after the holiday's and avoid sanding primer 😐  I decided to tidy up the body to chassis mounting packing pieces while the  body is  back off the chassis again.

I had previously attached a piece of seat-belt webbing to the top of the chassis rail, its purpose is to protect the underside metal of the valence (splash aprons) thus avoiding metal to metal contact.

Next are the packing pieces that the body actually sits on,  these sit atop of the valence -  I remade a complete set plus a few spares for each mounting bolt position, I needed between 4 and 6 shims at each body bolt mounting point except for the rear most mount which has 5 shims.

I used green 2"wide x 1/8" thick webbing to make the shims and cut the pieces 5"to 6" long and punched a 1/2 " hole in each.

Next I soaked them in some boiled linseed oil to water proof them. 

 

Cheers Mark

 

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Edited by 1930 Kram66 (see edit history)
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Back into sanding....

I decided to start with the bonnet top pieces, after lightly sanding the last coat of epoxy I sprayed 2 coats of 2k grey primer. I did this when the boss was out over the holidays.😀20230116_152219.jpg.d81063805620be859ebf8727a1be6dbf.jpg20230123_110959.jpg.fb0fd2bef87056bbd5b69d5b1e2f323e.jpg

 

So yesterday I got started on blocking out the tops of the bonnet pieces. After applying a guide coat I wet sanded using 180grit.

 

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 This morning, another guide coat and sand with 240grit this time.

 

 

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Got a bit carried away and rubbed through around the front edge on the right hand top piece and along part of the hinge line. 😐

It was a very humid day and in the afternoon I noticed some flash rust forming on the sanded through areas. You can just see it in the photo below. I spread a little vinegar water on the effected area and let it do it's work , then cleaned it off with Isopropyl alcohol, next a quick spray of etch primer to seal it up.20230219_125625.jpg.7e85dff3f657fba9dded7ab308fee47c.jpg20230219_124111.jpg.cacb8bc1db65cc2f05fe52a8c8c20207.jpg20230219_130255.jpg.ee3d7ce0bba9389c7f79b933833738d7.jpg

 

Got both left and right sides sanded today.

With a little luck I will spray another 2 coats of 2k primer tomorrow, then some more blocking starting at 320grit and hopefully finishing at 400 grit.

Cheers Mark.

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1930 kram66 you wrote: I needed between 4 and 6 shims at each body bolt mounting point except for the rear most mount which has 8 shims.

I used green 2"wide x 1/8" thick webbing to make the shims and cut the pieces 5"to 6" long and punched a 1/2 " hole in each.

 

Always a debate (and struggle) on how to properly shim these bodies (especially 4 door touring cars)when placed back on chassis. My understanding is that factory used a 3/16" rubberized canvas type material like you suggest about 2"x3" at each mounting spot. Before setting body on chassis, it is critical to have chassis perfectly level in all directions, and most importantly, having no built in "twist". After body is set in place on one layer of canvas shim (or maybe 2 layers in your case or 1/4"), it is "snugged" (not too tight) temporarily down with the mounting bolts so fit of doors can be examined (gaps, alignment, closing properly). Then begins the real challenge, adding additional shims here and there until doors fit and close perfectly. The shims used for such tweaking should be 1/16"x2" steel U washers that can be slipped into mounting spot by loosening bolt, prying body off 1/8"without removing the bolt, and slipping in place. Some mounting spots may need 2 or more such washers. Both sides of car need to be done at same time. At each attempt, body bolts needs to be snugged down again and progress noted. The reason steel washers are used is because they do not "crush" as bolts are tightened, allowing a more precise shimming process. Also at only 1/16" they can achieve very fine adjustments. 8 layers (or even 4 layers) of canvas will never be a good/solid mount as crushing over time will be a problem.

 

You mention that you required as many as 8x1/8" canvas shims at one mount, 6 on others, or about 3/4"+ of shims! In my experience this suggests something is askew, overall shim variation should range between 3/16" at tightest spot and 3/8"-7/16" at worst spot, or so.  

 

Others on here may have further insight on this. I used this method on my 1931 Chev, a 1928 Ford Tourer and my 1931 Chrysler (although it uses a different method).

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Oops.... I made a mistake.

Thank you Gunsmoke for your informative reply and questioning  my number of shims used. 

I clearly wasn't thinking when I made that post..... to much adult beverage ☺️.

To clarify I actually need 4 at all body mount positions  except the rear most which have 5 not 8 as I said. I will edit the post to reflect this.

 Once again thank you for following my posts and my apologies to all for posting incorrect information.

Cheers Mark.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Quick update .......

After many hours sanding on the body and doors over the past 3 weeks after work, I sprayed 2 coats of 2k primer on the body and doors yesterday.

Also, I added a crude odour filter to my exhaust fan out let.... next door appreciates it 😀  I used Range hood charcoal filter material for this ...... no complaints about overspray and smell now☺️

Lastly I made some clearance holes in the body wood for the fuel tank cover sheet metal - like a dummy I did not allow for it when fabricating the body wood.😐 In a previous post I mentioned that I had to add extra shims to provide clearance for this.

I am hoping to remove some of the body shims as a result of doing this - time will tell.

Cheers Mark.

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got to spray some colour paint at last ! ☺️

I sprayed the firewall of the body and the undersides of the valances and fuel tank cover with satin 2K black.

Next day I sprayed the door jambs, wheel arches, undersides of the bonnet panels and lastly the inside perimeter of the doors with the actual colour paint .... Yippee !

I used satin clear for these parts.

Finishing up with some GMH black on the insides of the doors.

Cheers Mark.

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Been busy over the last 4 weeks, had some good weather that coincided with my spare time to get some paint sprayed on at last.

For starters, I masked up the body so I could spray some GMH black on the inside panels and floor. 

A few days later, I sprayed the bonnet and doors for my first attempt at clear over base. I thought that would be easier than jumping straight in on the body. About 5 hours total time spent. I learnt that two tone paint jobs are hard work.

Next, I decided to paint the body in separate sections starting with the rear tub. As I wasn't confident I could get it all done in one go, based on my experience on the doors and bonnet. As It turns out that was a good move as I spent about 6 hours just on the rear.

A few days later was masking up the rear section and repeating the spraying on the front and middle parts. This actually took me 8 hours to do. Yes, I'm slow 😀.

 

 

For my first attempt at a full re-spray using clear over base, learning on the job as it were, I am fairly pleased with how it turned out- yes, I got some runs, orange peel and even a bug that managed to find its way on to the bonnet just as I was making the last pass of clear 😐

Next is wet sanding with 1000/2000/3000 grit then compounding and polishing. I will leave the paint to harden up for a few weeks before starting this phase of the job.

Cheers Mark.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Since my last post, I started preparing the front and rear guard/fender/wings for priming along with various small items that need to be painted. Got 2 good coats on these items.

Then I managed to come down with Covid 😐, which had me down and out for a couple of weeks.

I have just started back at work and also back on the Chrysler about a week ago.

We have had some good weather here today and I had a day off, so I took the opportunity to get some black paint sprayed on the windscreen frame, headlight buckets and spare wheel carrier.

Cheers Mark.

 

 

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Edited by 1930 Kram66 (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

  This week's effort.......

1- Mounted the oil filter/ engine vibration damper and brake fluid canister to the fire wall. I cleaned up and reused the original fasteners for this.

2- Bent up and fitted a fluid line from the brake fluid canister to master cylinder, also made mounting clips for this line.

3- Applied sound/heat insulation to inside of fire wall and the bottom of floor boards.

4- Fitted the sheet metal cover over the fuel tank. For this, I first glued small stripes of nylon webbing to the main chassis cover to stop metal to metal contact on the bottom of the sheet metal cover under it's mounting points. I also need to obtain and fit some small rubber buffers to fit in the front edge of this cover ( in the 4 small holes on the inside edge) as it contacts the underside of the rear tub sheet metal.

 

Cheers Mark.

 

 

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6 hours ago, bones said:

My car is registered as a 31 but it's obviously a 30 model and it has the 66 emblem on the light bar? maybe a carryover model and was sold in 31? 

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In those days it was common to register/title the car as the year sold. Your car could have sold late since it was sold during the Great Depression.

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On 7/4/2023 at 7:11 AM, bones said:

My car is registered as a 31 but it's obviously a 30 model and it has the 66 emblem on the light bar? maybe a carryover model and was sold in 31? 

 

Just out of curiosity does your car have any letters/ numbers stamped into the bonnet/hood supports?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Very nice work and result. Nicely done wheels are such an important part of a finished restoration. I'm sending my 5-1931 CD8 wheels off today for sandblasting priming and powder coating. Some pitting on lock rings, not sure if we will do much more than live with it.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Continuing with finishing the chassis sheet metal, I tackled the job of wet sanding, compounding and polishing the side splash aprons.

I'm using single stage "Jet Black" paint for all the chassis sheet metal and front and rear guards/fenders. 

First picture shows what the part looked like off the gun, next shows after sanding with 2000 grit paper and lastly after buffing and polishing.

I then fitted the aprons to the chassis, hopefully for the last time.

Also, I fitted some "T-shaped " rubber strip to the windscreen frame and then test fitted the completed assembly to the body, to trim the rubber to final size.

Cheers Mark.

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