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1966 Fury III


PhilAndrews
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Posted (edited)

More work on the clock.

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New magnet wire arrived so I rewound the winding mechanism.

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Tick tick tick CLUNK tick tick tick. Runs for a couple minutes on a single wind.

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It's now all reassembled and running on my bench supply to see if it'll keep time.

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)
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I didn't have a lot of time tonight but the rear right corner had a parking ding and had lost its shape.

 

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Close to the correct profile now, almost good enough for a bit of body filler. Got a few more ripples to caress out further back up the quarter, too.

 

Phil

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Oh, and why I don't really hold the previous bodyshop in particularly high regard, and also why I'm undoing their work:

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When the top of a welded seam looks like frothed chocolate milk, 

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and the underneath looks like an old yard brush...

 

You're Doing It Wrong.

 

Phil

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I decided tonight to make a start on pulling the badly welded trunk floor. It wasn't attached in many places, but I ran out of cutting disc halfway through.

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Still, that was enough to lift it up.

 

Wait, what? Another floor repair beneath it.

Why?

 

I guess that all comes out and I'll remake it to match as best I can.

 

Phil

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2 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

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I decided tonight to make a start on pulling the badly welded trunk floor. It wasn't attached in many places, but I ran out of cutting disc halfway through.

20210527_171611.jpg.12bf6990c3548638b6ef2ca2689db4d3.jpg

Still, that was enough to lift it up.

 

Wait, what? Another floor repair beneath it.

Why?

 

I guess that all comes out and I'll remake it to match as best I can.

 

Phil

I guess they thought that old adage”Somes good, mores better” was appropriate

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Cutting disc engage!

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That's the repair panel out. Yup, that's most of a hood in the trunk.

 

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Well, that's wrong so out it came. 

 

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Pulled a few pounds of Mississippi out of the frame rails too. 

 

Good news is I think there's enough metal left in there that I can copy it and duplicate.

 

Phil

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The floor doesn't go all the way to the edge. There are areas behind the quarter panel that can fill with dirt. Originally there were plastic plugs with a little drain divot on the inside way down at the bottom to let any water that gets in the trunk out. Sometimes when rust is repaired people don't put the holes for the plugs back in. Admittedly it is a pain to do so because they are d shaped holes. If you cant pull the plugs and hose it out now and then, the quarter panels will rust out thanks to the dirt building up and staying wet.

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3 hours ago, Bloo said:

The floor doesn't go all the way to the edge. There are areas behind the quarter panel that can fill with dirt. Originally there were plastic plugs with a little drain divot on the inside way down at the bottom to let any water that gets in the trunk out. Sometimes when rust is repaired people don't put the holes for the plugs back in. Admittedly it is a pain to do so because they are d shaped holes. If you cant pull the plugs and hose it out now and then, the quarter panels will rust out thanks to the dirt building up and staying wet.

Yup, that happened on this. Looks like the car was parked up under a roof that wasn't quite long enough, the trunk leaked and the rubber mat prevented it from ever drying out fully.

I want to recreate the triangulated sections where the trunk floor drops down at the sides to meet the lower edge of the rear quarters, so that will need those drain points, yes.

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I removed the last of the nonsense patches- that one installed over rust but I'm thankful for that as the shapes I want to copy are mostly there.

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In cross-section along the back panel, I'm taking the spotwelds out where the floor meets the valence and will weld the replacement floor in along the top of the valence where it'll be good and strong (much better than a butt weld to a thin edge).

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It's looking better, by degrees. Gonna look worse yet but hopefully it'll come around. 

 

Phil

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There's just enough metal left in the back left to press a thin piece of card into and record the locations of the strengthening ribs. Then, cut that out to transfer the pattern to steel.

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I made a rough-n-ready die and dolly and tried making a practice groove in a piece of the same type of steel I plan on using.

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That's really quite hard work, and the result isn't totally tidy. Considering getting a bead roller.

 

Phil

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Bead roller faster and less strain I am sure. Is the cost prohibitive or can you maybe plan on using for something else in the future?  I know I have a few tools laying around I bought 20-30 years ago for one thing and here they sit. I admire your dedication to trying to make everything as correct as possible.

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Can always use a bead roller.

 

I use this logic and argument- this is Chrysler we're talking about. If they didn't have to do something in the process of making a car, they didn't.

So, if there's ribs in the steel, it needed ribs in the steel.

 

Phil

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17 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

Can always use a bead roller.

 

I use this logic and argument- this is Chrysler we're talking about. If they didn't have to do something in the process of making a car, they didn't.

So, if there's ribs in the steel, it needed ribs in the steel.

 

Phil

That Said a lot of the cars parts were somewhat over engineered. I expect that is one of the reasons they lasted mechanically so long. As far as the body in the 1960’s your plan is probably a good one.

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Had a bit of a discussion about metal forming with people who know better than me. I bought a length of 3/8" steel bar, bent it to have as handle and chamfered the end. 

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That then got beaten into the wooden die I made, cleaned and painted. 

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Offered up, that's not a bad match at all.

 

Phil

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Continued my archaeology.

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Removed the incorrectly profiled and attached lower quarter "repair".

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I then removed several pounds of Bondo- more yet to go.

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I put a bit of gloss paint on the quarter where I removed the body filler. It was quite rippled, from what I can see somebody tightened a ratchet strap around the back of the car at some point.

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A little work with hammers has seen the correct overall profile close to being back. Still needs a little more finesse. I need to remove the old rubberized paint from the inside of the panel.

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I had also continued the removal of the rusted sheet metal in the trunk. There's a bit in the corner where the panel wasn't put together correctly and the water sat between the seams and rusted them out.

Mass production at its best.

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)
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It's 88 degrees in the garage and there's a storm brewing.

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What better time to grab a scraper and a 1.5kW heat gun?!

 

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Got this far before deciding enough was enough and heading in. I need a smaller blade to get into the crease but that came up well. Most of the metal is sound still. Now I can see the bumps and dinks and putting the dolly against the inside will be a little more effective than it was when it was cushioned.

 

Phil

 

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