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Hi John,

I am not sure that there are any records of the original thickness but something to seriously consider is the corrosion that would have occurred inside the water jacket over the last 100 years thinning out the wall in pits and pockets. When I did my block I spent many long hours digging out the years of accumulated sediment in particular between each cylinder, I then had a sleeve fitted to each, not a huge extra cost. I would also recommend crack testing as there are several weak spots with these old blocks.

 

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for the reply.

My cylinders have been roughed out to +80 thou (2mm) to remove the pin gouge. I can get JP pistons at .80 oversize.

It has been running with 40 thou oversize pistons for 30 years. Going .80 is only half a mm per side over what I have been using.

Who can supply sleeves in Aus just in case.

Edited by John McEwan (see edit history)
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I could go out and check the area that is broke out in one of my cylinders on a 22 block, but that would not really tell you anything. Some areas could be thicker/thinner from the get go. Any core shift when pouring the block can change that too. When the inside of the block was cast they used a sand mold and pretty sure so was the outside. Add in 90-100+ years of rust. What I think happened, water got in the cylinder thru open valve, had a really bad freeze and pushed the side out. Engine does turn over. LOL for what that is worth, I don't know. :)

DSCN0840 (1).JPG

Edited by Mark Gregush (see edit history)
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  • 3 months later...

I had a terrible worn out '24 or '25 roadster that the engine had worn out .100 over pistons in it. The back half of the body was about the only thing I could salvage off that one and I am not very pick at all! The block had multiple welds on it over an inch wide.

 

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