Jump to content

65 Riv - replace fan clutch AND water pump?


moran75
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi All

 

Every thing is stock on car including idiot light, fan shroud, fan. Nothing added/altered.

 

I stress car is NOT overheating. Runs great. Idles great. No leaks from rad/water pump etc. No noises that make me concerned.

 

EXCEPT towards end of a 30 mile trip the other day i noticed a short but noticeable screech when parking, but only when i stepped on gas. Coming from fan clutch 'area'.

 

I must admit I've never paid any attn to my fan clutch before.

 

There is no obvious free play and it doesn't free wheel - but its obviously old and dirty and the the coil looks rusty.

 

Have driven it round town sincw, not massive distance, and no screeching.

 

Anyway Its obviously worth replacing the clutch. I have the correct one from CARS.

 

But i have read that its a very good idea to also change the water pump at the same time - I think the theory is because a new clutch would put new strain on old pump and vice versa.

 

Looking for some opinions as to whether also changing the water pump is REALLY necessary in my situation? I don't want to wrestle with a seized water pump bolts etc and all the faff that goes with it unless i really need to.

 

I'd much rather just change the fan clutch and if the screech reappears then go back in for the more major surgery of a water pump.

 

Would anyone agree/disagree?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said:

  Check your fan belt condition and tension

Tom

Ill double check that...

 

Assuming OK what do you think about the alleged necessity of changing water pump at same time as a bad/old clutch?

 

All the best

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, moran75 said:

Ill double check that...

 

Assuming OK what do you think about the alleged necessity of changing water pump at same time as a bad/old clutch?

 

All the best

 

Kev

    The water pump is a weak point in the Nailhead Buicks but I generally dont replace anything unless its broken. If the bearings in the water pump or fan clutch dont show any "play" I dont see why the water pump or fan clutch would be responsible for a "screach". Sometimes a fan clutch will seize a bearing and not exhibit any "play", so could be bad, but when that occurs the fan will lock up and act like a one piece unit, so the diagnosis is obvious. Given the description of your concern and your inspection of the water pump and fan clutch, I would persue the suggestion I made above.

Tom

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just following on , as  1965rivgs  says-----check your  belts  first ,especially 

if they are old and starting to get a hard glazing appearance, then if not the correct tension,

can  screech   from  radiator or  power steering  belts.

Only replace  fan clutch, and or water pump, if required,  to test fan clutch---- --and 

with cold engine  ,spin fan by hand  fast as you can, and it should  not turn more than  1.1/2 times.

to test  water pump--- with belts off or loose, can get a very small amount of play  minimum though,

and it  should spin  freely  ,with no noise.

While you have belts loose check  alternator  generator  front pulley as well,--they can  go bad as well.

Warning--if your water pump is original cast one, can be sometimes hard to remove,  and repair, main

reason  is the original  mounting bolts can seize, and snap when  trying to remove.

regards.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are running a notched V-belt you might want to try an old style belt without the notches. You could also scuff up the belt surface of the pulleys with some medium grit sandpaper just in case they have a bit of a glaze.

 

An industrial power transmission company would have a set of belt gauges.

Sheave Gauges – D.P. Brown

 

They could help get you out of a situation where a new belt might be manufactured with metric measurements that are converted to inch equivalents.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you can find the oldest employ at your local jobber, who has been there for a long time, he can tell you how to read the nomenclature printed on a V belt.   Top notches have no effect on a belt as long as the depth, width, and angles of the belt conform to the same dimensions of your pulleys (or the original belts.) I would imagine after 50+ years your pulleys could be very slick too.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all....

 

I’ll check belt tension next time I’m with the car, I’ll look to get one of this Krikit gadgets...as up to now I’ve used the famous finger method.BTW belts are relatively new.

 

As per my original post I was initially focusing on the fan clutch but maybe that’s a red herring ...

 

I’ll keep you posted.

 

all the best

 

kevin 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, moran75 said:

Thanks all....

 

I’ll check belt tension next time I’m with the car, I’ll look to get one of this Krikit gadgets...as up to now I’ve used the famous finger method.BTW belts are relatively new.

 

As per my original post I was initially focusing on the fan clutch but maybe that’s a red herring ...

 

I’ll keep you posted.

 

all the best

 

kevin 

  Very often new belts. and especially inexpensive new belts, will stretch after being in servive for awhile. If you havnt adjusted the belts since you installed them, chances are very good they need to be re-adjusted.

Tom

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

By way of an update.....

 

Checked all belts and yes, you've guessed it, they were not tight enough...

 

So with help of a pry bar and a Krikit got them sorted as per manual...

 

Had a 150 round trip today mainly on the motorway with a few breaks in-between and again car seemingly ran really well with no overheating/mishaps BUT the occasional 'screech' was still there, beginning after my first stop (when starting up again) approx 40 miles in  - and thereafter when starting up after a break...i also heard it once when joining the motorway on the way home but it quickly subsided....

 

Also before setting off the fan seemed not to be moving freely as it should - not that it should free wheel of course , but  I wasn't getting a full spin...

 

So as i have a new fan clutch I think i'll put it on - probably good practice anyway as the one that's there is of unknown vintage - but will stop there (leave waterpump) and see if it solves the 'issue' before it progresses...

 

Thanks all for your help

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, Jim Cannon said:

Kev-

Does your new fan clutch have a small coil spring on the face of it? That is required. The "economy fan" without it will not do the job.

 

 

Yes, It does...bought from CARS

 

cheers

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/20/2021 at 5:29 PM, RivNut said:

Sounds like your pulleys / belts might be "glazed" with age/wear.  Do not over tighten the belts; damage to the water pump bearing is inevitable if you do.  

That's been my experience. The belts on my old ford tended to glaze over after a bit. I suspect from overheating the belts. Desert heat is hard on rubber.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check YouTube for a video showing you how to use a force deflection gauge.  Great for a dual pulley a/c equipped nailhead because you check one belt and use the other as your straight edge.  In order to use the tool, you need some specs on your engine.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Turbinator said:

Tom, Is there a legitimate tool used to measure fan belt (s) tension on passenger cars?

Turbinator

Hi Bob,

  Yes, there is a tool but after 40 plus years as a pro tech it has become a matter of feel for me.

  It`s important to operate the vehicle and after the belts have been run in to recheck adjustment.

  I`m sure if I compared my initial adjustment to a gauge the belts would be too tight by the gauge`s guideline. But most belts stretch at least a little so even if the intial adjustment is spot on that wont be the case for long. As a mechanic I learned to do the job once because often one doesnt get a second chance to re-adjust...and as a fleet mechanic I couldnt afford the time to do a job twice. It is rare for me to need to go back in and re-adjust belts after run in.

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tom, I’ve adjusted belts before and even used belt dressing  to quiet noisy belts. I’ve adjust stretched motorcycle chains, strings on guitars, and whatever needs readjusting. I was wondering about the belt tension tool.

Thank you for heads up and taking the time for an answer. There have been times I’ve done some simple things on car engines I’ve done wrong my whole life. Then I asked a question about something as simple as priming a vertically mounted oil filter at oil change time. I always thought how thirsty the engine was on start up after oil change. I never stop learning.

Thanks again 

Turbinator

Edited by Turbinator (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...