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1930 Chevy coupe. Engine swap


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the original 1930 194 maybe a 1931 194. trans are different though per my interchangeability chart.

 

there were changes from 1929-1932 not many interchangeable parts in the driveline like that. changing the engine would require engine, trans, torque tube, and maybe rear end. and may have to reconfigure the crossmembers for mounting the items. go over to VCCA there are several discussions about changing and swapping. not advised, best thing to do it keep it original !! I own a 1929 and a 1930. 

 

not an easy task changing a driveline, gets into custom fabrication and modification. and then you Loose the AACA realm...

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Thank you for the info. Your correct probably best to keep it original. Just very hard to find people that do Babbitt. Thank you again for your time. I’ll just keep trying to get original parts. 

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I live on both sides of the fence.  I like original, as well as one that is modified enough within reason to be able to survive in modern day secondary traffic speeds.

 

These early prewar cars have fallen as far as desirability for the reasons like your problem of engine work costs, lack of parts in general, rotted wood, as well as not being able to feel safe in todays world of texting idiot drivers.

 

Therefore you might get lucky to find a previously rebuilt or good used engine left over from a street rod build. This would be my first choice, spending some time to find one within driving distance.

 

Babbit is not rocket science. Old time car repair shops did it on site all of the time. Also a Chevy was a very common car so back then, rebabbited rods were always stocked at parts places.  I used to see those NORS Chevy rods at Hershey years ago.  Just a quick search shows that "The Filling Station" will do your rods, but way too pricey for my limited budget:

Chevrolet Parts -  1916-36 BABBITT ROD REBUILDING SERVICE

AF-548
$159.00 EA
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CHEVROLET 1916-36 BABBITT ROD REBUILDING SERVICE

This rebuilding service will take your old worn out babbitt rods and rebuild them to your specifications with new babbitt. Send your cores & allow 3-4 weeks. Price is per rod when done in complete sets. Specify undersize dimensions.

For 1916 1917 1918 1919 1920 1921 1922 1923 1924 1925 1926 1927 1928 1929 1930 1931 1932 1933 1934 1935 1936 1937 1938 1939 1940 1941 1942 1944 1945 1946 1947 1948 1949 1950 1951 1952 1953 Chevrolet Cars and Trucks

 

 

 

Over 30 years ago I rebabbited one bad rod at home.  My then boss fixed up old one lunger engines and told me it is easy to do one rod at home.  I followed his way to do it.  I made hardwood forms coated with oil to pour new babbit into/around the rod.  Then I used an adjustable arm type hole cutting wood bit in my drill press to bore it to size.  I first tinned the rod surfaces so that the babbit would adhere correctly. Nothing was difficult, just time, and I'd never seen it done before either. Maybe there is a youtube video?

 

 

 

I just went back to that site and now see that the main bearings are inserts that also can be rebabbited by them; again, very spendy:

Bearing Rebuilding Service

Chevrolet Parts -  1925-1936 MAIN BEARING BABBITTING SERVICE
AF-663
$495.00 SET
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CHEVROLET 1925-1936 MAIN BEARING BABBITTING SERVICE
This rebuilding service is for all 1925-1936 Chevrolet cars & trucks. It will take your old worn out main bearings and rebuild them in semi finish with new babbitt. Send your original bearing shells and allow 3-4 weeks. Price is per set. These bearings must be line bored after being installed in the block for proper fit.

For 1925 1926 1927 1928 1929 1930 1931 1932 1933 1934 1935 1936 Chevrolet Cars and Trucks

 

 

  

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 Sure you can’t tighten your bearings up to specs? 

  When I worked in my Dads shop (12-14 years old early fifties) I’d come home from school and there would be a “ Babbitt Eater” sitting in the “ greasy corner” and I knew what I was in for.

  The regular mechanics time was too valuable to lay under an oil dripping engine, pull/add shims, file caps/rods, scrape/polish, and check/recheck oil clearances and roundness. I worked for free.

    Very seldom one of those knockers needed any rebabbitt to quiet down enough to satisfy customer.

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3 hours ago, Mikenath said:

Thank you for the info. Your correct probably best to keep it original. Just very hard to find people that do Babbitt. Thank you again for your time. I’ll just keep trying to get original parts. 

there are several places out that will do babitt no issue, i had mine done at Paul's Rod and Bearing call and talk with Russ, he is a great guy and knowledgeable. i pulled mine out and sent them to him, had them back in a few weeks. look great. they can also cut them down to numbers if you can provide them. they also poured my mains, then a local shop here line bored it. that is the hardest thing to do is line bore or find a shop that can. they are out there. also depends on where you are at.

 

several shops can freight your engine and do a complete rebuild or just pour babitt and bore the block and let you handle the rest. i have a list of shops i contacted on the east coast that do babbitt and other for these old engines.  VCCA 1929-32 forum is your GOD for these engines and cars !!

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Where are you located? Can make a big difference on getting work done. Just a few miles down the road from me (in Califunny!) is a fellow that does really good work, and reasonably (relatively?) priced. He does almost anything from model T Fords to Stutz Bearcats and even a Caterpillar sixty (HUGE engine!)!

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I’m in Pittsburgh Pa. The car it self is in great shape. No wood rotten all panels and body has been primed and painted all chrome is done. Interior is almost complete. Just having a rough time getting the engine done. Trans clutch pressure plate all good. Every machine shop I call won’t touch Babbitt.  
 

Thank you all for you information. Looks like I’m going to have to ship the motor out to be done. I’m sure it’s going to cost some money 

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